UKC

Hello.

I am sure many of you have read my previous post in Walls and Training about confidence on uk tech 5a.

What is the best way to climb and guarantee uk tech 5a outdoors?

The easiest would be bouldering say problems above V0+ or doing the Font style circuit problems at The Peaks.

Seconding would give me the chance to be closer to the rock.

I think sport climbing up to F5/F5+ and toproping VS 5a and HVS 5a would be the safest.

What are peoples opinion on this?

Any other ideas?

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Realistically I would say just try to get out and second some routes. I know you've had offers from people on here to go climbing and I think you just need to get outside and find out what real rock is all about.

I don't think that focussing on a specific technical grade (eg. 5a) will help you as you may find some 5a moves ok, and others not, and grades outside are very different to indoors really. Basically, you just need to get out and give it a go. Hopefully you'll just enjoy climbing good routes and worry less about the grades.

You might find a V Diff a challenge, or you might not. First time out, I would guess you will struggle on a VS or HVS, particularly on grit which is very technique dependent. I know I did !

In reply to Skyfall:
Hello Skyfall.

Thanks for that.

I have been told grit has a hard and steep learning curve.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I think the difficulty with all this is that, whilst 5a is not that hard and you should be able to climb 5a, climbing on rock outside is very different to pulling on plastic holds inside and so you will need to build up your experience just as you've been doing inside. It requires slightly different techniques and you have to cope with a different environment around you (which is half the fun). So I would say go and second some routes, start easy, don't expect too much, but enjoy learning and you will soon see what you can do.

Enjoy.

In reply to Skyfall:

Hello.

Hopefully with Hillwalking Skills under my belt I can join The Croydon Mountaineering Club once again who were honest with me from the start.

Therefore I can climb on a regular basis with a club.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Ignore grade chasing - just start at V Diff, enjoy your climbing, build your range of skills, and build-up from there.

In reply to Submit to Gravity:

Okay.

Cool as beanz.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

The obvious answer is do all of them! Lots of climbing, of a range of types, is the best way to improve. It seems to me that you are over-analysing the problem and should just go climbing and enjoy it.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Unless it is within your abilities you can't guarantee climbing a grade. You can even get caught out on something supposedly well within your capabilities.

This is unpredictability is one of the things that makes it fun. If you don't like that then it may not be the sport for you.

I know you've been told this before but just go climbing and have fun. The grades will sort themselves out in time.

In reply to Coel Hellier:

Hello.

I would love to do all three.

Bouldering is the easiest and the cheapest to go out and do.

Is it worth advertising for a bouldering partner here on the lifts and partners section?

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:


Yes, it is. You're in London aren't you? If you can get to the Sandstone (Bowles, Harrisons, etc), top-roping on sandstone is a good way of getting technically good on real rock relatively safely.

In reply to DaveHK:

Hello Dave.

Thanks for that....

I have done F4+ routes and tried F5 and F5+ routes but that was indoors on toprope.

Gaz Parry told me I could easily onsight F5+ and that was more than a year ago.

I am not sure it counts back at Craggy 2 I attempted some Font 5 and Font 5+ problems.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Coel Hellier:

Yes I am in London.

Sandstone is good for toproping.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to DaveHK:


Absolutely, especially perhaps UK 5a which covers a multitude of sins - especially on grit. Terrible mantels, overhanging fist jams, holdless slabs, the works.

I'm afraid other than gaining basic strength to pull on holds, I don't think indoor climbing is very helpful at all, just getting out on rock until you've done about 50,000 5a moves in every conceivable style is going to get close to "guaranteeing" 5a, but even then there'll an HVS 5a out there that's really 6b (it'll probably be in Yorkshire).

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Hello Jon.

I know how to do fist jams and practiced them quite a bit a craggy 2 on their artificial grit crack and I like overhangs.

For holdless slabs I would use palming and smearing.

Can you get indoor sport routes with mantels - Craggy 1 had a mantelling F6a route?

I think at some walls they make some of the problems technical - I know The Castle and Mile End do.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:


youtube.com/watch?v=MnKoQbFXemE&

In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:

Hello Tom.

I love the Big Bang Theory!

I remember that scene very clearly.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

And is good practice for the grit - or is it the other way round?

In reply to pasbury:

Hello.

I am not sure what way it is.

I think Grit is more solid than sandstone.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Submit to Gravity:


Take that advice MS

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I'm seriously hoping that this is a troll, otherwise I lose all hope for the future of British climbing.

In reply to Al Evans:

Take a look at his other posts if you're bored.

In reply to crayefish:

Hello.

OK....

Cool as beanz.

My mate Chez who boulders at Craggy 2 and White Spider grade chasers.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Removed User:

Hello.

Thank you.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I don't know if you're aware of this but F5a is different from vs 5a. One is the french system and the other is Brit grades. Which one are you attempting?!

In reply to Mountain Spirit:


Are you suggesting that Chez is a grade chaser? That is absolute tosh. Chez is a fantastic boulderer having developed many new very hard problems on the Southern Sandstone up to at least UK 7a.

Chez, like most climbers probably enjoys pushing his climbing limits to the max and at the same time improving. Both of these facets of climbing are connected.

That is as far removed from grade chasing as is possible. If you get outside and just bloody climb for the sake of climbing itself you will start to realise what many others have already told you.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Best way to get to leading VS 5a? After a good number of Hard Severes start attempting well protected VS 4c/5a routes. Simple!

In reply to Michael Gordon:


Or get up to Northumberland and do a few Severes!

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

The magic word you use yourself is outdoors

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

What's the hardest grade you've led outdoors?

In reply to Richard White:

Hello Richard.

Yes.

Chez is an awesome boulderer!

I know about his sandstone stuff.

He also has a bit of mouth on him and talks a load of crap[ sometimes for example he told me and Marcus Boal that he soloed The Classic Route on The Old Man of Hoy.

I think I woulds like to push my limits and improve.

Well I need to start climbing outdoors more and still waiting to hear from The LMC.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Hello Michael.

Thanks I will.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to wbo:

What about the word outdoors?

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Fredt:

Hi Fred.

I have never led outdoors.

Only toproped and bouldered.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Euan McKendrick:

Hi.

Yes.

I know they are different.

I would like to attempt the VS 5a.

All of this 5a started because of a reply on this thread.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=578499&v=1#x7672920

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:






Well, you aren't going to get anywhere unless you do the following:

1. lead outdoors, the easiest grade you can. i.e. Moderate

2. Repeat (1) above until you have mastered your ropework, using protection and setting up belays.

3. Repeat (2). at Difficult, then VDiff etc.

Eventually you will be good at climbing and the Peak is your oyster.

In reply to Martyn Maltby:

Hello Martyn.

Thanks.

It will take a lot of time if I do not climb regularly.

If I want to climb above my max grade (F5, Severe) outdoors, do I need to increase my physical fitness, strength endurance and power endurance?

That is what James 'Caff' McHaffie told me.

I am a member of my local gym and I know how to do 3x3 and 4x4.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:







Do you get 9 and 16?

You know how to do them. But do you do them?

Also, many climbers do 8x8s, 2x4s and even number ones and twos. Have you considered those at all?

In reply to Submit to Gravity:


PMSL. Chapeau, m'sieur!

JW

In reply to seankenny:

Hello

I was suggested 4x4s on a previous thread that I did.

I will start them on Monday along with the other stuff you suggest.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Submit to Gravity:

Hi.

Huh, Huh, v, funny.

I meant to say 4x4s and 3x3s!

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:


2x4s should be done plyometrically, so ask at the wall for "2x4 ply" and they will understand.

In reply to seankenny:

Hello again.

I will ask at Mile End Wall this Monday.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:


Afraid so. So climb as much as possible!


You really, really just need to get more time spent on real rock. Leading, seconding, bouldering or top roping are all fine, although you probably want to be very careful leading and not start pushing it until you've spent a while climbing with more experienced people and they're happy with your gear placements.

I did a lot of climbing indoors before I went outdoors, and learning to climb outdoors felt like relearning everything. Holds look different, moves feel different, climbs form different shapes, you need to make different decisions, you forget all the technique that you've spent ages learning indoors, and because you aren't using the right technique, all the strength and endurance you've built up are no help. You watch little old men effortlessly solo routes that you couldn't do on a top rope and wonder what you're doing wrong...

If you get to a point where you've done a lot of outdoor climbing and you're moving elegantly and efficiently on rock then you might be able to push your grade by doing strength and endurance work indoors, but until then it'd be like upgrading the engine on a car with no wheels.

In reply to Ramblin dave:

Hello dave.

I am waiting to hear from the LMC about my membership decision.

I have also advertised for a partner.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:








Well Mr. Spirit, I weigh 15 stones, I don't boulder or go to the gym. I never climb indoors, I don't even climb regularly. I cannot manage one pullup. Last time I climbed I soloed a dozen routes up to Severe on Stanage on New Year's Day.
But, given a dry day and a willing belayer, I could go out tomorrow and do nearly any trad 4c, most 5as, and have been know to manage the odd E1.

So, no, you don't need gym or reps or bouldering or any training whatsoever. You don't need to join a club, you don't need to go on a course.
You need to go out climbing.

In reply to Martyn Maltby:

Hello Martyn.

Thanks for your reply.

Last time when I was weighed at Christ's College Ski School in Guildford to assess me for what boots and skis I would need I weighed around 18 stone wearing a jacket and fully clothed.

I am no fun of pull ups.

I tried to join a club but they froze and suspended my membership.

So I have put another advert for climbing after Easter.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Why did they suspend your membership?
And why oh why don't you stop concentrating on grades and just go climbing and enjoy it!! I'm starting to wonder if you really are on a wind-up now!!

As for stating that someone is telling porkies, remember you were the one plastering your false photos and credentials all over the internet not so long ago!! Maybe he has soloed the Old Man, how do you know otherwise??

In reply to liz j:
Hello Liz.

They said they the club has got other information on me....

They will not tell me what the other information is.

The whole 5a thing started with me reading another thread about setting goals of which I have posted the link two.

How can I go out and climb regularly if a climb suspends my membership?

Chez was known threw out Craggy to talk a lot of rubbish sometimes...

If I see him at The White Spider next time I will ask him about The Old Man of Hoy and some of the other stuff he said he had done.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Hi,

I honestly wouldn't bother working to do a VS 5a, if you're comfortable at that grade do HVS 5a, I don't know why but for me it always feels nicer, VS 5A's have a tendency to feel really hard! but HVS 5a seems to work! (this is just my opinion) Climb loads of VS 4C and then try for HVS 5a

In reply to Mountain Spirit:


You don't seem to read this book then; http://www.amazon.co.uk/How-Win-Friends-Influence-People/dp/0091906814

That will be an interesting conversation.

You; "Hi Chez"
Chez; "You said I talked a load of crap and rubbish on a public forum"
You; "Uhhh"

Cue the tumble-weed and awkward silence.

In reply to Euan McKendrick:

Hello.

Thanks for that.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Euan McKendrick:

I would disagree regarding VS 5a vs HVS 5a. If the former are available, do them. If for some reason they are really hard(?), they are still usually well protected with shorter hard bits than those of the next grade up.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

I did state that this was my opinion. I'm not saying I'm right, just how I felt

In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Savvas just enjoy climbing whatever you climb. You may never lead a trad climb never mind an HVS 5a but you can still enjoy what you do. That's the main thing.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Soloing the Old Man of Hoy is extremely impressive and being on the verge of coming off most of the latter half of the crux pitch, it's something I struggle to get my head round. Nevertheless I'd want to be fairly certain before criticising someone who'd claimed to have done it (and there can't be many of those).

In reply to Euan McKendrick:

Aye just thought I'd give the other point of view. It was mainly for Sawas' benefit (assuming he ever reaches that stage)

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Fair.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Oh come on, mountain spirit/sawas has to be a massively successful troll, nobody can really be that stupid?

In reply to Al Evans:

Wow

In reply to Al Evans:

If it is a troll it's a good one.!

In reply to Richard White:

Hello.

I have not read it.

At Craggy were all mates - Chez, Gareth Squires, Marcus Boal and myself.

We used to joke about Chez's lying.

I still talk to Chez at The White Spider.

I am still mates with Chez.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Al Evans:

I don't know what's been up with you lately but you've been acting a proper cnut. MS is a real person, with real enthusiasm and some genuine problems which it sounds like he does his best to work around. That doesn't need belittling by you or by anybody else on here.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

How I can climb outside - even toproping - without a partner or being a member of club?

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Pagan:

Thanks.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:




Decide where you'd like to climb, and ask on the UKC Lifts and Partners forum for a partner who could take you climbing.

In reply to Al Evans:


Oh I don't know. Looks like you are.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Hello Michael.

It is extremely impressive.

I will ask him next time at The White Spider.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Fredt:

Hello Fred.

I have asked again in the Lifts and Partners forum.

I am not sure where I will be based due to the Plas Y Brenin job.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Ok, glad to hear it. It is just not always a good idea to say certain things on a public forum that could be misinterpreted.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:



Ask one of the people you meet at Craggy if you can go with them.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Where can you climb tomorrow?

In reply to Coel Hellier:

Hello Coal.

The people at Craggy that I know have left.

Gareth moved to Scotland and Marcus recently moved to Spain.

I can ask Kat Assersohn and Luke Cornibar if they want to climb with me.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Coel Hellier:


Or get a bouldering mat and set off yourself. You seem to boulder a lot indoors, it could be right up your street - who knows?

In reply to Fredt:

Hi

Anywhere but I need time to sort out accomodation and look at transport.

I would like to head back to North Wales and climb on Tremadog or The Slate.

Also if someone can teach me how to abseil - Gogarth would be good....

Also other sea cliffs like Bosigran, Pembroke and Swanage.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to climbwhenready:

Hello.

Bouldering would be good.

How much do you think I should spend on a mat?

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:







I know nothing about bouldering mats. It's just a thought My instinct says "as little as possible, as long as it's large enough / light enough / squishy enough for what you want to do", but maybe they're highly technical beyond what I give them credit for.

Go into a good independent climbing shop and ask? Most shops give good advice if you tell them what your requirements are. You're in London, I trust the staff at Cold Mountain Kit (and I am not associated with them, just a happy customer). If you ask here I'm sure people will be able to give you trusted opinions of other local shops.

In reply to climbwhenready:

Hi.

I will ask at Rock On on Monday and Urban Rock on Wednesday.

I like the DMM HighBall.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to liz j:

Liz, the guy clearly has issues but why do you keep bothering about it. You only bother to post on Savvas's posts, nothing else. Be thankful you can climb well and have no problems with your health and try to be tolerant of people less fortunate than yourself.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Why don't you hire an instructor.


You could use the money you have saved not going on two ski trips.


Pay up front then it's incentive to go even if you get a cold.


Bye


Climbingspike.

In reply to Nigel Thomson:


I know he has a few issues, and if you read back through my posts, you will see I have tried to give him good advice. I don't post on here very often, because the rest of the forum is pretty dull these days to be honest, and at least his threads are pretty lively.

In reply to liz j:

and at least his threads are pretty lively.

I suppose you're right.I know you had tried with him too but for some reason I just feel as if we don't have a full picture.
I agree with you that UKC is becoming dull but as I don't post much I saw myself as part of the problem. It seemed to roll along quite the thing a while back.

In reply to liz j:

Thanks for the advice.

The LMC committee are having a meeting in April....

I will know afterwards what my membership status is.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Climbingspike:

Hello.

Hiring an instructor would be a great idea!

Suppose I can go back to Plas Y Brenin.

I actually e-mailed The Association of Mountain Instructors asking if anyone could teach me abseiling.

Still no reply.

What should I ask the instructor for?

Maybe seconding and placing gear going across so he can assess and evaluate my placements out of 10.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to liz j:

Whatever you are trying to achieve is so clearly misdirected you should stop.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

There are no end of guides and instructors on UKC just find one and mail them. Tell them you want to go climbing for couple of days and have never climbed before. Cut out all the crap about placing runners, training, abseiling. You don't need evaluating for anything, just have a day on the crags. You have put your self in a bad place with all the stuff you keep talking about, is it any wonder so many suspect you as a Troll. Other people will be reading these posts, climbing clubs, centres etc and if they are not sure of you it won't help.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Your instructor will be able to evaluate what's most useful and appropriate to you.

On a 1:1 course you will be seconding and getting lots of mileage in and getting to grips with placing gear and building belays.

In reply to Climbingspike:
Hi.

OK....

I will tell him/her that.

The CMC (Croydon Mountaineering Club) refunded me because they did not have any person to deal with disabled people and I had no hillwalking experience that would have helped with long walk-ins and hillwalking itself.

The LMC have not told me what the information they have on me.

Centres are fine with me I can rope climb at many apart from The Castle.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to jezb1:

Hello Jez.

That sounds good to me.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:





There's loads of instructors out there that can work with you then.

Get emailing a few directly.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I did some climbing with high point a few years ago before I'd really decided to take up the sport.
http://www.mountainguides.co.uk/about-highpoint/
It was great fun, small groups and I learned a lot. Not too expensive either.
I have no connection with these guys other than having enjoyed their trips.
You never know who your instructor is going to be. My first top roping session was led by Dave birkett. I don't think any of us knew we were in the presence of such a legend - very down to earth and obviously quite happy to teach a bunch of bumblers.
It's a good way to get out if you don't have a climbing partner.
Why not try that?

In reply to jezb1:

Yes - agree with this. Tell them honestly where you're at (as I understand it, you've done some indoor bouldering but not climbed outdoors much) and what sort of thing you're interested in doing (ie learning trad, basically). Probably also tell them, as fully as possible, about your dyspraxia and what sort of limitations that puts on you. Then let them decide what's going to be a useful and interesting day out for you.

And I guess ideally you'd want to go out a few times with the same person, so they can get the measure of what you can do and keep coming up with good stuff for you to do...

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I'm sorry mate if I have in anyway offended you, I didn't realise you had problems and just treated you like I would anybody else who put forward the questions you put on here, please ignore me and accept all the useful advice kinder people are offering.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Ok,please allow me to ask three simple questions:-

1. Has anybody on this forum actually CLIMBED with Savvas?

2. Who on here would be happy to lead a route and be belayed by Savvas?

3. Who on here would be happy to second a route while being belayed from above by Savvas?

(questions 2 and 3 refer specifically to outdoor trad routes).

JW

In reply to John Ww:







I have not climbed with Savvas, but I would gladly do 2 and 3 if I could choose the routes.

In reply to John Ww:

Actually, I think if he was taught properly, he would probably belay by the book as his attention to detail is impressive!!

In reply to hang_about:
Hello.

I will keep it in mind.

Thanks for the info and advice.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Ramblin dave:

Hi dave.

I agree with you.

You are right: mainly indoor bouldering, only two days outdoors and some indoor toproping.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Al Evans:

Hi Al.

Thanks.

No worries mate.

Cool as beanz.

I will accept everyones advice.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Fredt:

Hello Fred.

What kind of stuff would you like to climb?

I am not that keen on aretes.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to liz j:

Hello Liz.

Thanks for that.

I have never belayed outdoors but I will try my best with an instructor.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Fredt:

I forgot to say....

I am not very good on descents, approaches and topping out.

Would you mind going somewhere with a short walk-in/approach as I am not good on broken, rocky and/or uneven ground.

We could wait till I have done some hillwalking.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:



Hmmm, most crags may pose a problem!

In reply to Mountain Spirit:




Sounds Like some southern sandstone trips are the place to start for you Savvas.

Localish, easy Access Even with public Transport, should be able to get plenty of partners to show you the ropes?

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Hello Michael.

What about Tremadog?

There is always sea cliffs if someone would be kind enough to tech me abseiling.

I think all I need is people to have patience with me.

I am taking cycling up to help with the balance and for general fitness.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Choss:

Hello.

That would be the best option for me so far.

I am not sure if my balance has improved and l;last time I climbed outdoors was many years ago.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I don't know Tremadog but suffice to say I can't think of a single crag which you don't have to approach, top out or descend from.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Tremadog is roadside, but most of the approaches are over uneven ground. The scramble descents down rotting stairways can also be quite exciting. If you want a crag where you can walk easily to the base and then easily off the top there would be better candidates.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Cheddar! You could belay some of the routes still in your car, and probably step directly from your car roof onto some of the routes with the aid of a ladder... :P

In reply to andrewmcleod:

That answers it then!

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Hello Michael.

I agree with you....

So all I need is patience.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Jamie B:

Hello Jamie.

Yes I know Tremadog is roadside.

Where would you recommend?

Perhaps my first day with the instructor could be hillwalking and maybe easy scrambling.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

You clearly have plenty of that. You first starting posting about your goals 2 years ago and in that time have apparently done absolutely diddly-squat to move towards them. This may sound harsh, but unless you get the finger out and do something, anything, then people will give up on you. Push harder my friend.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:


I guess it has probably been covered already but that's the first step you need to make... Just getting outdoors and working from the bottom with the right group of people.

I haven't done any outdoor climbing since September or something because of the weather and darkness, and I haven't done any indoor stuff either as it bores me to tears. Pretty soon I will be venturing back outside again and I will be starting back off on the easy stuff again and getting my strength and technique back again as well.

In reply to Jamie B:

I was wondering to myself what some others might have done in his position. E.g. get train/bus to the mountains and spend a week hillwalking/scrambling. As long as you've got the (basic) gear and can think for yourself, you're sorted. No partners required, no ability either.

In reply to andrewmcleod:

Hi Andrew.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Are you talking about Cheddar Gorge?

It is limestone country!

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Jamie B:

Hello Jamie.

I was talking about people having being patient with me as I would have a little trouble on rocky ground etc.

I know what you mean though.

I joined a club to start climbing regularly but they suspended my membership.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Milesy:

Hello.

I agree with you.

Do you think going with an instructor is a good idea?

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Hello Michael.

Cool as beanz....

Apart from one thing I do not have a car.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Hello.

I can easily use public transport and I would not mind doing sone hillwalking and scrambling.

I have got seconding gear apart from Prusik Loops.

Bye

Savvas

Mountain Spirit, have you considered taking up another interest at all? From what I can see on this forum, you have spent a long time talking about climbing, but not really gone climbing...

You admit, you cant handle approaches, descents, rocky/uneven ground...

I just get the feeling reading into this, that instead of talking about climbing all the time, for which from looking from the outside in, you havent really done, nor seem to do in the future. You could enjoy actually doing something else which is more realistic and equally as enjoyable.

Just my 2 pence worth, having watched all these threads.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:



It's going to be a very steep learning curve my friend, as when you get to the climbs after the approach, rock climbing itself tends to be on quite rocky ground too.

In reply to Bonni82:
Hello Bonni.

Yes I have considered it....

I was being honest, but that was back then a few years ago - not being able to handle the approaches etc.

I have a lot of posters etc on my wall about climbing and mountaineering....

I think it would be a great shame to put all of that stuff in the recycling bin.

I get your point.

I have asked Plas Y Brenin what is the best option for hillwalking or being mountain savvy.

Cycling would help with the balance along with being great for general fitness.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Sy Finch:

Hello Sy.

In North Wales I enjoyed the climbing itself a great deal....

I just need to do some hillwalking and maybe scrambling aswell.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Why don't you go on a hillwalking course in the Brecon Beacons. The walking is not particularly hard, mostly on grassy trails with little rocky ground. You could learn to navigate properly using a map and compass and it's a beautiful part of the country. Maybe get yourself a decent camera to take some pictures as well. There is easy access from London by rail.

http://www.mountain-activities.com/index.php/courses/

I think you would learn a lot on a course like this, maybe put the climbing on the backburner until you are confident moving around in the mountain environment. You would also meet like minded people who may be up for further adventures in the future.

In reply to liz j:
Hello Liz.

I am looking into Hillwalking courses and nearly went on a Plas Y Brenin one.

I am also looking at disabled persons outdoor adventure centres run by Adventure 4 All....

.... Like The Kalvert Trust in The Lake District which does hillwalking

Your recommendation looks very good though.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Please accept this as a genuine question..

You reference disability - what is your disability and the limits it has/may have on your desire to climb outdoors?

I am in a Mountaineering Club and the only time we would "suspend" a membership is due to anti social behaviour rather than a lack of ability - half of our club would be suspended if it was down to ability - me included!

Nathan B

In reply to Nath:


More than a clue to the disability is given in the OP's profile. If you read further up this thread and some of the other, not dissimilar, threads you may gain a better understanding.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I think the Peak sounds a better idea than N Wales. Going to Tremadoc , let alone Gogarth or any sea cliff is going to be a ton of faff for you. If you go to the peak it is easy for you to go on the train.
The public transport is ok
Someone can advise you on where to stay/accomodation
The walk ins are almost all very gentle
You can do some bouldering, requiring a lot less kit and not even a partner

You can see where you're at after this. Places like Cheddar are just going to be frustrating for you

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Savvas

My daughter has Dyspraxia, her balance and spacial awareness is impeded further as she is profoundly deaf.

She is always falling over things, clipping a door frame as she walks through an open door, etc etc.

I took her climbing with a hope to improve all of the above, and also to improve her self confidence.

After a few trips indoors to get the basics of rope work, belays etc. I have taken her a few times to Birchen Edge in the Peak, plenty of low grade routes with easy walk in, easy descents.

She really enjoys it - does she climb 5a no, has she any aspiration to climb 5a - no. But the important thing is she has got more out of climbing than achieving a particular technical grade.

She led her first outdoor climb late last year - it was a Diff, by the end of the day she had led 4 routes and seconded a hard severe.

The point I am trying to make is don't be fixed by a grade - just get out a nd climb.

Genuine offer - you get to Birchen Edge - I will spend a day with you

Nath

In reply to Nath:

Does your daughter suffer from Aspergers / Autism type symptoms also quite common with Dyspraxia?

In reply to Nath: Now thats surly an offer he cant refuse,good man.

In reply to Nath:

Hi Nathan.

My disability is Dyspraxia and there is a link to it on my UKC profile.

I do not know why The LMC suspended my membership....

The CMC gave me a descent explanation in a letter.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Nath:

Hello again,

Poor thing.....

Well done and good for her.

I will take you up on the offer.

Savvas

In reply to blackcat:


+1

C'mon Mountain Spirit, people really want you to succeed here but you're going to have to step up to the plate even if it's going to take you out of your comfort zone at the start.
You've got bags of enthusiasm and if you lived in Scotland I'd have you out living your dream. You CAN do it big man!

In reply to wbo:

Hello.

I can get to anywhere by public transport - I even went to Aviemore by overnight sleeper train from London Euston.

I do see where you are getting at.

I am planning inn getting a DMM Highball mat.

What do you mean by faff?

I think doing hillwalking and/or scrambling is a good idea anyway.

I have applied for a part-time job near a grit area.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Nigel Thomson:

Hello

I have taken the guy up on his offer!

Cool beanz

Sav

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Good man! We all want to hear how it goes Sav so come back to us with a good tale.
I'm currently trying to get folk interested in writing up their trip reports and posting them on UKC. You can be one of the first.

In reply to Nigel Thomson:

Hello Nigel.

That is super cool beanz.

I can post blog links here.

Sav

In reply to Nigel Thomson: I think nathan is the perfect guy to show him the ropes,just a shame its taken so long.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:


Good for you, and good on Nath for the offer.

There seems to be a growing band of people cheering you on.

Go and get some climbing done!

In reply to Ffion Blethyn:

Hello Ffion.

Cool as beanz

It is going to happen!

Bare RESPECT to Nathan!

Even put a post out asking for advice on a bouldering mat.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Savvas

Don't buy a bouldering mat I will take you to Birchen Edge if you can do the first 3 feet you can do the climb - spend your money on getting to the where the rock is. If you have some shoes I have everything else.

my email is n.barson@sky.com

drop me a mail and we can fix something up

It will need to be a week end, I can't do week days as I work away on the South Coast but I live in Leicestershire so the Peak is about 1.5 hours away and I know a few of the edges very well - I've taken my 4 kids up and down most of it.

Nathan

In reply to Nath:

Hello Nathan.

I get a discount on intercity travel anyway - 1/3 of!

I will give you an e-mail soon.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Look forward to it - drop me a mail and we can exchange numbers and arrange something.

If you can get yourself up to Nuneaton - I think it is on the Euston - Birmingham New Street line I can pick you there and get you back there at the end of the day so you only need your train fair.

Don't spend any money on anything other than getting to the rock!!!

If luck is on our side you will lead something by the end of the day - I doubt it will be 5a but it will be route on real rock.

Nathan

In reply to Nath:

Hello Nath.

Cool as beanz

I sent you a pm with my number in it.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I will call you this week.

Nathan

In reply to Nath:

Good man Nath!

In reply to Nath:

Hello.

Cool as beanz

Looking forward to hearing from you.

Bye

Sav

In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Savvas

Thanks for the message, I have your number I will drop you a text today so you have mine.

You work out the logistics of getting up to the Midlands, Nuneaton or Hinckley are best for me, both of them are accessible from Euston. I can give you a lift up and back from there or alternatively if you can get to somewhere in the Peak I can pick you up from a cafe or hotel if you are going to spend a week-end up there. There are a couple of pubs in Baslow that offers rooms at a good rate and its only 5 minutes to Birchen from there.

Quick question, have you got your own Shoes, Harness and Helmet?
I have access to spare gear via my club but need to organise before hand.

Nathan

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Savvas

Got your text, seems like you have all of the equipment you will need.

We will go to Birchen Edge as I think it's probably the right venue for you, the crag has plenty of easy graded routes and you can "step off" some of them if needed. The walk in is quite straight forward and the descents are everywhere and easy enough. There are enough Diffs and V Diffs to fill a day and if you are going well there are some nice Severs, Hard Severs and Very Severs I am more than comfortable to lead should you wish to second.

You can't go to Birchen without doing Powder Monkey Parade!!

Have a look at Birchen Edge on here and see if there are any particular climbs you would like to do.

I think if we agree a couple of dates and then if the first falls through due to weather or unforeseen circumstances we have a plan B in place already.

I work near Worthing/Brighton in the week which I believe has just got a new Indoor Climbing Wall if you wanted to meet me prior to going outdoors.
Only thing left is to let me know what you want to climb and when you can get up here.

I can't do this weekend as it's too short notice and I have previous commitments.

Nathan

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Top bloke Nath, well done. Sawas if you are ever in the Lakes i will take you scrambling, we can do roadside scrambling or some mountain scrambles or even some roadside cragging, let me know if you ever up this way.

In reply to Nath:

Hello Nath.

I will look at Birchen Edge on the logbooks.

About the dates, that sounds cool as beanz.

I am up for some roped climbing in Brighton.

CurlyStevo is from there.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Wesley Orvis:

Hello Wesley.

I am up for scramblng and/or cragging.

Cool beanz.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Re Climbing in Brighton - that would be great, I need a week notice as I leave home early on a Monday morning and don't get back till late Friday. So if I don't know you can meet I won't have my gear with me.

Give me a heads up and I will have my stuff with me.

Curly Steve has made contact - hopefully going to pop my Sandstone Cherry with him next week.



Nathan

In reply to Nath:
Hi Nath.

Cool as beanz

I can not find many 3* VDs - found one 2* though

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I will have my climbing gear with me next week - let me know if you can get down to Brighton and we can meet and have a climb.

I might get outdoors with Curly Steve....

Nath

In reply to Nath:
I'm cool with lending a hand if Savvas wants to try out the sandstone and I have all the kit, however its not very beginner friendly rock especially in the lower grades it can be a very hard task master. I can more reliably climb 5a on southern sandstone than many of the much easier grades (partly as the easier climbs are more eroded and the ball bearing effect of the sand grains can be much more unpredictable and partly the style of the easier climbs).

It normally takes people a lot of sessions on southern sandstone to get their grade anything like their indoor grade if they have never climbed outside. Even if they are used to other rock types it can take a bit of getting used to (especially if you haven't climbed much on grit / other sandstone)