UKC

does anyone have the beta for masters edge? anything? I have been looking allover the web for something but I've found nothing.

if you could mail one to me across ukclimbing that would be great.

In reply to coreybennett:

youtube.com/watch?v=N7LvpE_AhF0&

In reply to coreybennett:

Surely this is all you need to know?

http://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2013/02/05/masters-edge-an-animals-...

In reply to coreybennett:

This is my go to place for hard grit beta:
http://www.reocities.com/Yosemite/4755/climbing/gritlist/grit_e7.html

In reply to Owen W-G:

i've looked at a couple of video's of people climbing it but it didn't tell me what gear to have.

In reply to Mark Collins:

thats great

In reply to Mark Collins:
i watched a video a while back with someone using a size 2 tri cam and a size 13 wild country rock in the bore holes, george ulrich also used a nut underneath the bore holes but i cant find anything on what it was or the size.

In reply to coreybennett:
I think the nut below the shot-holes was a DMM peanut (no idea of size) but that on subsequent ascents poeple haven't found it, or thought it of such low holding power not to bother with it.

Gear wise for the shotholes, you'll want a black Metolius Mastercam and/or a tricam 2 or 2.5 (the light/dark blue tricams - both fit). The bent over wire thing is pretty whack IMHO

In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

but what if i can't get a hold of a purple alien?

i didnt feel much more confident after i heard about wolfgang breaking his back!

In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Edito
i saw a photo of someone falling from the last reach of the route before the top out, do you know if he decked out?

In reply to Mark Collins:



Good find - it's obviously a bit outdated now, but they've done well to restore the original.

In reply to coreybennett: I'll come and watch. It'll be fascinating to watch an HVS leader from Francoshire on this. Respect!

In reply to Frank the Husky:

Oh no, I haven't bothered with my tick list on this haha! 6b I'm normally at! But sure, I've been out with Franco quite a bit, your welcome to come!

In reply to Frank the Husky:

Since I've been climbing with franco my trad's sky rocketed!

In reply to coreybennett: Great, let me know when. I'll provide the catering.

In reply to Frank the Husky:

Sounds fine to me, coffee and snacks then? Haha

In reply to coreybennett:

The updated GritList is here
http://gritlist.wikifoundry.com/

The fall from the final move has been well tested and with a good belayer should be safe. (being a scaredy cat, I used two belayers, each on a half rope for redundancy). George Ulrich's GriGri in a ground anchor would put a lot of shock load on both the gear, leader and ground anchor - most people would chose not to do it this way.

The move to the shotholes is hard and very highball, this is the major risk for most people, even with pads.

I found leg flexibility very useful - get stretching.

At 'the Edge' wall in sheffield there is a Masters Edge tribute route to practice on. Presumably it was set by Tom or Pete, it is almost as hard as the real thing, and has a scary last move too!

In reply to coreybennett:
If all else fails you could go for a mid-week afternoon bouldering session at the Climbing Works and have a chat with the FA.

In reply to Dan Arkle:

Thanks more conifence now haha!

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Ron fawcett?

In reply to coreybennett:

I climbed it on Monday with a rock 10 bent over in one bore hole, a green totem in the other. I thought both were bomber but don't take my word for it. There is a strange round slider a Germany guy gave me that goes in the lower wall and I think it looks good but glad not to test it. I work in outside so come see me for more beta if you like.

In reply to coreybennett:


order one off the internet.


find something you are confident to do.

In reply to mark s:

maybe i don't have that much money? and maybe it was a joke?

In reply to jamesturnbull:

i think instead of the green totem i'm going to use a 2.5 tri cam, i got told that at somepoint below the bore holes there is a key hole for maybe a size 1 nut? couldn't you just send me the beta via email?

In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Do you know any size comparisons for the alien cam? I can't find one and it seems allot safer than a tri cam