UKC

Anyone out there done this route and can explain to me where it leaves Comb Gully.

Went up to do it yesterday. Comb Gully was so banked out that the first ice pitch wasn't there. The snow was like slush so we just bailed.

There looked to be two possible exits...
One is a sloping ramp above a large wall, the other slightly higher was a series of slabs and corners. I can send pictures to anyone who can help.

It was very quiet in the Corrie and for good reason... saw a team on Number 3 Gully buttress and a soloist on Ledge Route. There was also a team heading up #5 Gully!!! CMD arete seemed busy.

Cornices are massive... the whole western flank of Tower Ridge and #3 Gully Buttress are crowned as is Orion Face.

Cheers
E

In reply to Euge:

It starts exactly where Comb narrows drastically (usually, with so much snow around things may look a little different this year).
Teams also on Thompsons, Vanishing at least 4 parties on Ledge Route and UKC Logbooks show more.
Yes it was a little slushy.

In reply to Euge:

Did thompsons in amazing conditions yesterday. Snow went solid before the route. We topped out at 10am though but saw at least 4-5 teams arriving behind us.

In reply to Euge:

Saw the team in No. 5 just as they headed to the massive cornice. They bypassed it to the left but still seemed a bit risky being up there.

We did Vanishing Gully which was ok going, good ice on all the moves but it wont be there long. Tower ridge was a lot firmer, good placements throughout. There were two guys at Tower Gap who kindly let us go ahead. Would be good to know if they made it before it got dark. Also we've got some photos of them on the gap and I think they got some of us so would be good to hear from them.

Also noticed some large cracks in the snow slope between Tower ridge and Observatory gully. A lot of movement on the entire slope.

In reply to Euge:

There are no cornices above the Orion Face.

Above Sioux Wall on Number Three Gully Buttress there are also no cornices. Quickstep and Two Step Corner do have big cornices.

The west flank of Tower Ridge is not corniced but there are big cornices above the Upper Cascades.

I don't mean to be picky but it's good to be accurate. Where there are cornices, they are really quite big still.

Mike

In reply to Mike Pescod:

Sorry Mike, I didn't mean to be misleading.

Looked like big cornices above Green Gully, which is above #3 Gully Buttress.

Looking at the forecast it looks like it's going to be mild all week!
What a nightmare.

Cheers
E

In reply to Euge:

I was out on Observatory Ridge today, which was very alpine in character. Ice was falling off the Orion Face, so worth avoiding today.

Pics and info here: http://www.applemountaineering.co.uk/2014/03/31/finishing-on-a-high-observa...

In reply to tallpaulselfridge:

Saw the team exiting No. 5 Gully, it wasn't too steep where they finished. I'd agree that it wouldn't have been my first choice though!