UKC

Evening all,

Just seeking reassurance really... and advice!

Going to Snowdonia Sunday - Monday and planning on climbing Hope on Sunday afternoon (with extension possible to Lazarus and The Arete) and Grooved Arete Monday. What will we be needing to carry up with us?

We were thinking two full sets of DMM nuts, a set of DMM alloy offsets (not brass, the bigger ones), set of Torque Nuts and three cams (sizes 1,2,3), plus a load of slings and about 12 QDs. In packs we were going to have snacks, pasty, water and waterproofs, oh and a map, compass and headtorch.

Have done a fair amount of single and multipitch in the Peak and South West, but never climbed with packs and been on such committing routes.

Is this enough - too much or too little? Advice welcomed

In reply to ianlaw:
2sets of nuts? how big do you think the pitches are? You will get away with less than half of that rack for Idwal Slabs.


P.s., you've forgot ropes. YOu'll def need ropes. :p

In reply to higherclimbingwales:

Oh yes, and shall we go with a 60m single or 50m half ropes?

Yes, my partner loves placing gear! Thanks, will take one set.

In reply to ianlaw:
I'd only take 1 set of wallnuts rather than 2. I don't own any offsets so not sure how useful they'll be (i've climbed all those routes without them), the cams will likely be worth having too as will the torque nuts. Slings will prove very useful so good you're taking a few of those. Long quickdraws / extenders will work best if you have any.
The pasty is important too, such a good feeling to bite into one of those at the top of a long route, good plan.

A single rope will be quicker as will keep faff time to a minimum.

Hope you have a great weekend.

In reply to ianlaw:
50's will be fine. as will a single for most easy stuff. as mentioned above. double ropes are a faff if you're not used to them.

I'd leave the 2nd set of nuts at home. the only reason you'd have two sets of nuts is to have one set for winter and one set for summer climbing.
You could probably get away with a set of nuts and just the cams but it's not too much bother to carry extra if you think you'll use it.

Leave the 4m cordalette and the 240cm slings and take a good selection of 60 and 120s to use as extenders and belay building.

In reply to higherclimbingwales:

Thanks all, we will take one set of nuts and the 60m single. Wasn't intending on taking cordalette or 240cm slings but cheers for the advice nonetheless.

One last question - besides those mentioned, what other routes would you recommend for a repeat visit or indeed an adaption of plans?

In reply to ianlaw:

What grade?
Milestone buttress, Ampitheatre buttress, Flying butress for VDs, Anything harder then I would head to Llanberis Pass for a good selection of routes across the grades.

In reply to higherclimbingwales:
Have led a few VSs, but comfortable at HS (mostly!), so was thinking of S4a maximum as it's an unknown area for me climbing wise (lots of walking there) and committing routes. I just bought Ground Up as a guide, couldn't find new Rockfax one nearby.

In reply to higherclimbingwales:

. the only reason you'd have two sets of nuts is to have one set for winter and one set for summer climbing.

I climb with at least two sets whenever I climb in the mountains. Maybe it's just Scotland?

In reply to ianlaw:

Crackstone Rib in the Pass
Christmas Curry at Tremadog

Loads to go at, if it's in the Ground Up book it's good.

In reply to ianlaw:

The GU guide is brilliant. the topo photos are much clearer than the CC guides and the descriptions of the routes are better IMO. There are plenty of routes up to VS you could potentially do. One of the best HSs in the pass is on Cryn Las called Main Wall. It should be reasonably dry this weekend if rain stays away. There's Wrinkle on carreg Wastad that's worth a climb as is Skylon. Failing all that, there's always Tremadog.

In reply to jezb1:


A classic if ever there was one.

In reply to higherclimbingwales:

Main wall is a pretty serious and sustained route at HS. I wouldn't recommend as a first route to someone who was only climbing at that grade, who was new to multi pitch and had never climbed on that rock before.

In reply to pec:

He's not new to multipitch and he said he's climbed up to VS. I agree it's not the most ideal recommendation but given that they are not a total novice I think it's fair to mention it as it is a fantastic route.

In reply to pec:
Done about 20 Multipitch routes, but yes, new to mountains, so playing it safe first time round.

These look like great climbs, shame it's so far each time!

In reply to ianlaw:

Hey Ian
I'd just take one full set of wires and a 1 to 5 half set, the torque nuts and cams, slings and the QD's you propose sound fine. The single rope would save a lot of faff at belays etc and you could double it up for key pitches if you needed but the routes you are planning are fairly straight anyway. Are you both ok with swinging leads? This'll save some messing about for sure. Don't forget a first aid kit <and who has it> and take off any passcode security off your phones so you can use each others mobile should you need to. Perhaps consider some poles if you have some, both long walk outs, you don't want to knacker your knees up on day one!
I'd consider switching route days TBH, do grooved arete sunday and the slabs on monday. Plentry of folk will be on tryfan sunday should you need assistance but the pitches seem to clear much faster than the ones on the slabs. Monday sould be a little quieter for the slabs to give you space the breathe a bit. Your packs should be pretty light by the time you are climbing and using the compression straps you should be able to tighten them down to make the packs really slim. Don't forget your camera, Tryfan and the slabs have been the start of many a mountaineers career. Have a great time.

*Ampitheatre buttress is a fantastic alternative day should things change

In reply to wilkie14c:

Excellent advice, thank you.

First Aid kit in, don't go anywhere in hills without it, and whistle, survival bag etc.

Weather looks good - excited

In reply to ianlaw:

I wonder how we survived on these routes a few decades ago without all this paraphernalia. Survival bag on routes like Crackstone Rib where you can wave to cars? Come off it.

In reply to altirando:

We will walk back from Tryfan and possibly bag a peak or two if feeling good so perfectly reasonable to pack basic mountain first aid kit, and that includes a £2 survival bag that weighs a few hundred grams.

You don't know who or what you may come across on the walk in or out on any hill and takes no effort or significant weight to add these items.

I don't think it's over the top at all.

In reply to ianlaw:

How are you getting down? Do you plan to take trainers with you to walk in?

In reply to ianlaw:

I'd take the doubles, both Lazarus and GA have sections where they'll be preferable.

In reply to ianlaw:

If your planned route up Idwal is looking busy, then I can highly recommend Faith - Subwall Climb - Faith West Finish, you then have a very decent scramble to the very top.

It breaks down as 2 pitches on Faith, 1 pitch on Subwall climb, a roped scramble down and left to the start of Faith West finish which is a final pitch in itself. The scramble is then best taken roped moving together as it's pretty grassy in places.

I thought it was a great day out and will dodge the inevitable crowds drawn to Idwal on a sunny day.

In reply to wilkie14c:

Amphitheatre buttress is the worst quality route I've ever climbed! There are other vegetated paths with easier access if that's your thing

Make sure if your pasty is Ginsters that it's sufficiently warm for it to sweat a bit before eating, makes for a much better experience.

In reply to wilkie14c:

Thanks to all for the advice.

Climbed with 1-11 nuts, alloy offsets, 3 cams and 4 hexes... perfect amount of gear, although cams were only used a couple of times so might leave them next time.

AMAZING weekend - did Hope, Lazarus and The Arete on Sunday afternoon on a very quiet Idwal Slabs and then did alt leads (I took 2,4,6,8) on Grooved Arete Monday - had the route to ourselves.

Thanks all... hope this threads helps out others.