UKC

NEWS: Rare Lichen, E9, for Nathan Lee & Oli Grounsell

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 UKC News 16 Apr 2014
Nathan and Oli beneath Rare Lichen, 4 kbRare Lichen, Leo Houlding's E9 6c up on the Gribbin Facet (Clogwyn y Tarw) in the Ogwen valley has just seen two very quick repeats from Sheffield-based Nathan Lee and North Wales-based Oli Grounsell...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68859
 Tradical 16 Apr 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Nice one lads! How's the uni work going Nathan?
 USBRIT 16 Apr 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Yes I know times have changed...just a piece of history that in some areas pre 1960's or even later top roping a route before an ascent new or otherwise was considered cheating and such an ascent was often nullified or ridiculed by the powers that be,and if the holds had been marked with chalk ...well I think at least assassination.
In reply to USBRIT:

I guess there is always the opportunity to improve on the style of the FA. Without looking it up I can't be sure, but its possible Leo toproped it prior to the FA, so this would be repeating in the same style.

Sooner or later someone will do it ground up - I look forward to hearing about it
 Ramblin dave 16 Apr 2014
In reply to USBRIT:

Thanks for that obscure nugget of climbing history - I'm sure that there are some people who've started climbing in the last ten minutes who would've been unaware of it. Anything other insights you want to share?

Nathan and Oli - great effort!
 Greenbanks 16 Apr 2014
In reply to Ramblin dave: Oh come off it. USBrit is more in tune with what climbing is about - surely? This is a great effort by these lads - no doubt; but what constitutes 'news' these days?? I think that is the question that is being asked...a personal triumph yes, but perhaps navel gazing in the grand scheme of things



 MB42 16 Apr 2014
In reply to USBRIT:

Times have changed, judging by guidebooks FAs in the pre-60s involving the odd point of aid weren't that frowned upon as theres quite a few listed. I reckon if Dave Macleod had put up Echo wall with 'a few points of aid' there would people suggesting he came back and told us when he'd done it properly (bad example maybe as there's probably nothing to aid off). On the other hand I've no clue who did the first free ascent of The Bat, a signature climb for Smith and Haston despite there being 'a few points of aid'. Mutatis mutandis? Maybe accepted style changes but doesn't necessarily get better or worse. Or maybe not, I'm probably wrong.

Either way Rare Lichen looks a beast, I remember seeing the pictures of Clogwyn y Tarw when the new Ogwen guide came out and it looks terrifying. Good going guys.
 Michael Gordon 17 Apr 2014
In reply to MB42:

I do wonder to what extent 'a few points of aid' might have helped on The Bat. Sitting on a sling on the Hoodie groove is not going to be of any help for the moves above, and on the main corner once past the roof it would be much more difficult trying to place something than just running it out.

As for some of the other replies, E9 ascents no longer news? Er, OK!
 MB42 17 Apr 2014
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Yeah I've wondered on some climbs how much '2 points of aid' etc actually made much difference. The Bat sprung to mind only because of reading 'The Bat and the Wicked'. In that case a variety of standing in slings at the roof to reach round is mentioned, as is sitting in slings somehow fiddled in on dodgy pebbles above it, plus a sling stepping maneuver lower down on the route somewhere. Not sure how much difference it would make, much less than having rubbish gear, rubbish shoes etc at any rate.
 USBRIT 17 Apr 2014
In reply to UK chaps .I would guess many readers might think climbing only started at most about three years ago ....First with the use of aid and protection prior to the use of nuts ..that being for some of us in the north up to about 1964. Our gear consisted of several quarter inch slings and two sizes of pitons an x-army blade and a simond soft iron channal piton 1/2" thick.So it was find a crack to fit the size of these two pitons not that easy!. This changed when Yvon Chouinard invented his hard steel pitons which made them easy to remove without damage to the piton but devastated cracks for several years.The same has happened now with the use of nuts etc on popular climbs.In the 50's and early 60's I for one got criticized for the over use of aid pitons this was on about six climbs or so out of my 140 UK first ascents mostly in the Lake District.However the bits of aid on the routes in question were put up ground up on sight without even prior cleaning ....often quite an epic in the vegetated Borrowdale Valley.I now have one regret that us thick buggas in the 50's did not think of top rope practice and marking holds.However if we had maybe they would not have been a lot left for future first ascenters.Also the practice of getting legless on Friday and Saturday nights did not help much with our fitness. .... but it was worth it..... When climbing was a hobby and not a sport it was pure fun and of course was something to do when the pubs were closed.

In reply to UKC News:

GRIBIN, for f*ck's sake. Google. Just f***ing google.

jcm

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