/ Who did what this weekend then?
So what did you get up to?
I had 2 days down in West Penwith, did Pegasus and Seal Slab at Chair Ladder, Seal Slab was excellent! Great exposed moves at the steep bit above the slab and the layback crack on p2 was great. Pegasus was a bit damp but good but didn't particularly enjoy the final pitches.
2nd day went to Fox Promontory. Fun scramble down and over the Promontory and a quick abseil in. Sun was on the South face so soon dispatched The Muzzle which was great, steep well protected cracks. Then The Whisker, which was a bit of a let down. Ian then went up Sunshine Cracks which was good but well hard for the grade. Textbook lay backing up the nasty wide flared crack. Then went up the daunting looking The Curtain Raiser with great sustained 4c wall climbing with surprising lots of adequate gear.
Today headed to Boulder Ruckle in the sun. Found the ab straight away and got right on it. Started off on Lightning Wall, stiff crux and a bit damp but amazing climbing. CC SW guide sandbagged Iggy on Directors Groove/Ashes and Diamonds - definitely not VS. Tough moves past the overhang, but nice romping up flakes on p2. Then I talked myself into Elysium, first crux was very obvious what you had to do, but the traverse and gaining the corner was tricky! Great jug romp after getting the corner.
Where was everyone? Only saw 3 other climbers briefly at Chair Ladder!
Lower Sharponse. Superb as always, tremendous routes and setting and I can't get enough of the brainless wall-with-jugs style. But in need of a grade audit - the softness is just embarrassing and a bit of a mystery since the rest of Cornwall ain't soft at all.
Only one other party in spite of perfect tides and weather, weird!
Well don't audit anything yet I'm planning a visit this summer at some point! Not been on the culm for ages, been too long.
Not an awful lot. Out Saturday to Stanage, 3x HVS, one soloed, nothing special about any of them particularly! Plus a half-dozen other routes in the lower grades.
We did warm up on Wall End Slab though, which is one of my all time favourite routes.:-)
Rest of the weekend was gardening, as the patch of land laughably called a "garden" (as opposed to the more accurate "wilderness nature reserve") was starting to breed triffids.
Tower Ridge in amazing alpine conditions. Kind of spur of the moment decision.
Walk around Ogwen with family on Friday and an interesting meal out in Caernarfon, climbing at Tremadog on Saturday, wall today. Good weekend out and about despite two weeks into trapped nerve in neck causing some real problems.
We went to the Gower and it was great ! Sounds like you had fun too !
I'm off to the Middle East again on Thursday and we move house in July when I get back...
no climbing I'm afraid to say…
…but 3 hours kitesurfing saturday
and a rather strenuous 9 hours mountain biking on sunday :)
Went with Wife and 10 month old daughter Lauren to Skaha, in the Okenagan. Had a rare treat when Jen decided to leave me to it Saturday and I went climbing with a friend. Felt like such a luxury, baby cragging is nice, but its tough to get much done.
Really went for it and happily, I appear to be climbing as hard as I've ever have, not resting or falling once all weekend on stuff at my limit. Lunchtime trips to the bouldering wall are clearly not wasted time :-)
Friday rested my skin after a 6 day forray onto grit the previous week.
Saturday was glorious weather but I was Nobby no-mates so ended up indoors doing circuits.
Sunday was wet - indoors again, bouldering with daughter.
Monday - nice. Got out onto Welsh hard sandstone sport and did a handful of excellent routes. Wish I'd got more on-sight but fell twice cos a hold snapped and once when the sidepull I'd just committed to turned out to be full of mud & slime! Venue was Mawr Quarry, and it deserves far more traffic. There was hardly any chalk on anything, which given how good the good routes were was strange.
Was walking with my LDWA in the Rhonnda Valleys on Saturday on a 25 miler, out with Mummy and Daddy on Sunday on a fifteen miler then led a 21 mile walk yesterday on the English Boarders, good weekend in all
Nothing climbing related as I was on call until yesterday but pieced my motorcycle back together finally and went out on it yesterday.
Climbed Ben Lui in perfect spring conditions. Not a cloud in the sky, cool, no wind, no biting beasties, surprisingly quiet for a holiday weekend too. Crampons were handy for the snow in the shade but the snow in the sun was knee deep slush. Brilliant day out. :-)
Makes the week at work so much easier to come back to.
Had a great weekend on the culm. Some bouldering at Hartland Quay and nabbed my first F7a boulder!
Had a cracking day at Vicarage cliff yesterday, first visit there and was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of the rock. Did 4 routes there including Harpoon, which in my mind is a Culm classic. Cracking route, get on it!
Fantastic day on Garbh Bheinn on Sunday. Mountain cragging in shorts and T shirt in April; hopefully the start of the usual NW spring drought....
took some friends up north face path Tryfan then Bristly ridge Glyder fach as their first scrambling experience
just walking, no climbing, 5 of the ben lawers group on saturday and another munro in the area on sunday.
also drank a few glasses of wine, had a BBQ and spent some quality time with my pals.
i'm going to start a seperate rant thread about peoples driving if i can be bothered
I took a far too heavy rucsac for a walk around Loch Mullardoch. It was great.
Friday - 8 pitches in the Sennen area including the classic Demo Route.
Saturday & Sunday - Bosigran, including Commando Ridge and my first leads on Big Top and Allison Rib.
So, a pretty good weekend really.
Climbing at Hutton Roof yesterday with a couple of newbie leaders. I reckon if they can learn to place gear on limestone they can place it anywhere. Fabulous weather, even the stiff breeze was a warm one.
Spent Friday and Saturday in Cheddar Gourge working on VS and HVS trad routes as I need work on my confidence on lead. Felt like I improved a bit, so a couple of good days out overall.
No climbing, well not on rock anyway. Took my bike to the lakes and cycled up some hills in preparation for the Fred Whitton. Turns out that riding up cols in Mallorca the other week was no training whatsoever for trying to get my arse up Honister and Hardknott and I got totally shut down on both of them. Only got two more weekends of training before the ride to try to get some steep climbing power into my legs - yikes!
Were you being belayed by a nice Kiwi?
If so congrats on the lead mate, did my first lead on the second pitch of Alison just after you, thanks for the confidence boost!
Cant believe some of you saw no-one out in Cornwall, there were 20 odd out with Mynydd CC and Swindon and West Mids had similar numbers each. Believe LMC and Surrey Uni also had over 50 members each in the area, you've done well to have a quiet day.
So yeah good weekend in Cornwall, first lead, first multi pitch, first traverse, first sea cliff and a trip to the opera at Minack. Worth the 12hour drive home!
To be fair I knew the honey pot effect would likely be in full swing on Friday which is why we went to a reasonably minor crag compared to Sennen etc. Saw plenty of people out at Carn Barra
Helen you'll have to take me there sounds good
Sounds like lots of people got lots done. I think we should have a weekly roundup of ukc punterdom!
Saturday-Giants Crawl-Dow Crag
Sunday-South Ridge Side Pike
Monday-Easy Terrace-Dow Crag (went to do C Ordinary but wind was too strong)
Amazing weather in the Lakes this Bank Holiday, if a little fresh and cold high up, but the high crags were totally dry.
Fri/Sat: fully briefed trespassing in Range West (climbing and photographing).
Mon: proper trespassing in the Mendips (new routing).
There were 20 of us from Cambridge as well.
Which day were you at Chair Ladder ? there were plenty there on Saturday.
I also put up a few problems on the culm that are worth checking out - at Damehole Point, photos and descritpions here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2403
No, that must have been another first leader. I was down with LMC - there were indeed about 50 of us, mainly at Bosigran and Sennen I think.
I was at Chair Ladder on Thursday. Should of got more done but 4.5hrs driving kinda takes some of the energy out of the day!
4.5 hours drive ? luxury :-)
And you are right, Directors/Ashes and Diamonds should never be given VS.
Friday - Skiing at Glencoe.
Saturday - Sea Kayaking on Loch Long and Loch Goil.
Sunday - Monday - Walking locally (Trossachs).
Did Main Wall on Cyrn Las on Sunday then Dream of White Horses on Monday.
Forecast had the wetaher the wrong way around!
Weekend in Cornwall near St. Just. 1st day - Bosigran; had a migraine for the 1st time in 2 years which knocked me out for a couple of hours, but managed In-Between (VDiff) and Bosi Ridge - I still hate downclimbing and traversing. 2nd day - Trewavas; couple of VS's and worked on Spanker E3 6a. Good route - just 1cm too short on one section; pulled on a ratty crimp to work up it instead.
Then left before the rain swept in. Nice to be outside in the sunshine. Heading to Wales on Friday for some much-needed slate action.
I missed out on the Central Buttress centenary meet in Wasdale (due to Satuday morning committments and railway engineering mayhem), thereby guaranteeing you all nice weather in the Lakes as I am a rain goddess. I took my own private raincloud for a cycle ride in Kent.
Were you climbing in green on the fri? We were at carn barra
Low grade bimbling about cragging in the Eastern Lakes, taking it easy since my full body harness hadn't arrived and baby bump is too big for my normal one. Plus a great day out walking in the fells on Sunday. Got home to find new harness is now here, so I can get back to fret-free preggers climbing next weekend :-)
Err, climbing? I was skiing in Scotland.
I certainly was on occasion, that top was off and on in the sea breeze. How did you get on at Carn Barra? Were you on that route thats right down the bottom (very tidal) or on the bit thats a bit higher up? Great crag, must go back and get on Dialetic etc.
Climbing in Craig Cywarch, dry and sunny, lambs frolicking in the green fields below. We were the only climbers on the crag. The routes could do with a bit of traffic, cummon guys!
We were on the bit nearest fox prom doing sea wolf very tidal so only time for one route
Soooo, another beautiful weekend here, whats everyone done?
Friday had a quick dash to Bristols infamous Ring Road Boulder and was pleasantly surprised. Ticked my first (soft) V4 and plenty others. Worked Friday night then got up and got out to Shorn Cliff on Saturday, and did 4 excellent routes including a clean second of Lundy Calling which was awesome. Nice to meet some chaps who had come down from London! Sunday out to Ogmore and got on Exposure Explosion, although only after doing 3 pitches on the wrong route on the slightly chossy upper break. Too much enthusiasm and not enough guidebook reading... Excellent route though with a properly hard finish, mind blowing exposure pretty much from the word go. Was feeling rather tired today so chilled out somewhat although may have a crack on fingerboard later.
I hung plasterboard all Saturday; which was fun because I was hung over from Friday. Had Sunday lunch at the parents on Sunday obviously, and went for a nice 40 mile ride around the Gower on my new bike today. Generally a good weekend with equal measures of productivity, gluttony and exercise.
Fingers crossed my injured wrist is getting stronger and I'll get some climbing done soon.
Got sandbagged by the CC, climbed an extremely easy route allegedly at the same grade, sandbagged a mate quite horrendously and helped teach some beginners how to lead. A good weekend.
Bouldering at Burbage south on Saturday then a few routes at stanage on Sunday. Climbed Paucity HVS 5b which is comfortably my hardest climb to date do pretty chuffed with the weekend.
Climbed Senator and Gladiator at Roundhill with only curlew, lapwing and kite for company.
More Mendip nonsense.
I "Zen fished" four dropped nuts out of a 4m crevice
I worked on this episodes about climbing in Mallorca. Here is the last one http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/the-bouldering-on-majorca-is-really-hard-%7C-la-isla-bonita-ep-4... It was published this weekend. enjoy it!
Saturday did Doom on Craig Llywelyn, Cwm Cywarch. Sunday walked to Llyn Arenig Fawr but bailed for the slate when it rained. Monday got up early because of the forecast went back to Simdde Ddu and did Gyllion. Lots of heather bashing too.
Wandered into the clag on Goatfell, wandered back down as it was too cold to hang around. It was intended to be a scramble, but it was decided a quick up and down was in order to beat the predicted rain (that never materialised)
Yes, the predicted rain meant we were on the Rosa Slabs very early and could easily have done another route instead of shopping and going to the pub.
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