This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Nowhere near enough chat about climbing on here.
So what did you get up to?
I had 2 days down in West Penwith, did Pegasus and Seal Slab at Chair Ladder, Seal Slab was excellent! Great exposed moves at the steep bit above the slab and the layback crack on p2 was great. Pegasus was a bit damp but good but didn't particularly enjoy the final pitches.
2nd day went to Fox Promontory. Fun scramble down and over the Promontory and a quick abseil in. Sun was on the South face so soon dispatched The Muzzle which was great, steep well protected cracks. Then The Whisker, which was a bit of a let down. Ian then went up Sunshine Cracks which was good but well hard for the grade. Textbook lay backing up the nasty wide flared crack. Then went up the daunting looking The Curtain Raiser with great sustained 4c wall climbing with surprising lots of adequate gear.
Today headed to Boulder Ruckle in the sun. Found the ab straight away and got right on it. Started off on Lightning Wall, stiff crux and a bit damp but amazing climbing. CC SW guide sandbagged Iggy on Directors Groove/Ashes and Diamonds - definitely not VS. Tough moves past the overhang, but nice romping up flakes on p2. Then I talked myself into Elysium, first crux was very obvious what you had to do, but the traverse and gaining the corner was tricky! Great jug romp after getting the corner.
Where was everyone? Only saw 3 other climbers briefly at Chair Ladder!
So what did you get up to?
I had 2 days down in West Penwith, did Pegasus and Seal Slab at Chair Ladder, Seal Slab was excellent! Great exposed moves at the steep bit above the slab and the layback crack on p2 was great. Pegasus was a bit damp but good but didn't particularly enjoy the final pitches.
2nd day went to Fox Promontory. Fun scramble down and over the Promontory and a quick abseil in. Sun was on the South face so soon dispatched The Muzzle which was great, steep well protected cracks. Then The Whisker, which was a bit of a let down. Ian then went up Sunshine Cracks which was good but well hard for the grade. Textbook lay backing up the nasty wide flared crack. Then went up the daunting looking The Curtain Raiser with great sustained 4c wall climbing with surprising lots of adequate gear.
Today headed to Boulder Ruckle in the sun. Found the ab straight away and got right on it. Started off on Lightning Wall, stiff crux and a bit damp but amazing climbing. CC SW guide sandbagged Iggy on Directors Groove/Ashes and Diamonds - definitely not VS. Tough moves past the overhang, but nice romping up flakes on p2. Then I talked myself into Elysium, first crux was very obvious what you had to do, but the traverse and gaining the corner was tricky! Great jug romp after getting the corner.
Where was everyone? Only saw 3 other climbers briefly at Chair Ladder!
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Lower Sharponse. Superb as always, tremendous routes and setting and I can't get enough of the brainless wall-with-jugs style. But in need of a grade audit - the softness is just embarrassing and a bit of a mystery since the rest of Cornwall ain't soft at all.
Only one other party in spite of perfect tides and weather, weird!
Lower Sharponse. Superb as always, tremendous routes and setting and I can't get enough of the brainless wall-with-jugs style. But in need of a grade audit - the softness is just embarrassing and a bit of a mystery since the rest of Cornwall ain't soft at all.
Only one other party in spite of perfect tides and weather, weird!
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Well don't audit anything yet I'm planning a visit this summer at some point! Not been on the culm for ages, been too long.
Well don't audit anything yet I'm planning a visit this summer at some point! Not been on the culm for ages, been too long.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Not an awful lot. Out Saturday to Stanage, 3x HVS, one soloed, nothing special about any of them particularly! Plus a half-dozen other routes in the lower grades.
We did warm up on Wall End Slab though, which is one of my all time favourite routes.
Rest of the weekend was gardening, as the patch of land laughably called a "garden" (as opposed to the more accurate "wilderness nature reserve") was starting to breed triffids.
Not an awful lot. Out Saturday to Stanage, 3x HVS, one soloed, nothing special about any of them particularly! Plus a half-dozen other routes in the lower grades.
We did warm up on Wall End Slab though, which is one of my all time favourite routes.
Rest of the weekend was gardening, as the patch of land laughably called a "garden" (as opposed to the more accurate "wilderness nature reserve") was starting to breed triffids.
Post edited at 22:37
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Tower Ridge in amazing alpine conditions. Kind of spur of the moment decision.
Tower Ridge in amazing alpine conditions. Kind of spur of the moment decision.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Walk around Ogwen with family on Friday and an interesting meal out in Caernarfon, climbing at Tremadog on Saturday, wall today. Good weekend out and about despite two weeks into trapped nerve in neck causing some real problems.
Walk around Ogwen with family on Friday and an interesting meal out in Caernarfon, climbing at Tremadog on Saturday, wall today. Good weekend out and about despite two weeks into trapped nerve in neck causing some real problems.
In reply to Cheese Monkey: Unfortunately, I spent the weekend spring cleaning and packing up a good fraction of the house
I'm off to the Middle East again on Thursday and we move house in July when I get back...
I'm off to the Middle East again on Thursday and we move house in July when I get back...
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
no climbing I'm afraid to say…
…but 3 hours kitesurfing saturday
and a rather strenuous 9 hours mountain biking on sunday
no climbing I'm afraid to say…
…but 3 hours kitesurfing saturday
and a rather strenuous 9 hours mountain biking on sunday
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Went with Wife and 10 month old daughter Lauren to Skaha, in the Okenagan. Had a rare treat when Jen decided to leave me to it Saturday and I went climbing with a friend. Felt like such a luxury, baby cragging is nice, but its tough to get much done.
Really went for it and happily, I appear to be climbing as hard as I've ever have, not resting or falling once all weekend on stuff at my limit. Lunchtime trips to the bouldering wall are clearly not wasted time
Went with Wife and 10 month old daughter Lauren to Skaha, in the Okenagan. Had a rare treat when Jen decided to leave me to it Saturday and I went climbing with a friend. Felt like such a luxury, baby cragging is nice, but its tough to get much done.
Really went for it and happily, I appear to be climbing as hard as I've ever have, not resting or falling once all weekend on stuff at my limit. Lunchtime trips to the bouldering wall are clearly not wasted time
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Friday rested my skin after a 6 day forray onto grit the previous week.
Saturday was glorious weather but I was Nobby no-mates so ended up indoors doing circuits.
Sunday was wet - indoors again, bouldering with daughter.
Monday - nice. Got out onto Welsh hard sandstone sport and did a handful of excellent routes. Wish I'd got more on-sight but fell twice cos a hold snapped and once when the sidepull I'd just committed to turned out to be full of mud & slime! Venue was Mawr Quarry, and it deserves far more traffic. There was hardly any chalk on anything, which given how good the good routes were was strange.
Friday rested my skin after a 6 day forray onto grit the previous week.
Saturday was glorious weather but I was Nobby no-mates so ended up indoors doing circuits.
Sunday was wet - indoors again, bouldering with daughter.
Monday - nice. Got out onto Welsh hard sandstone sport and did a handful of excellent routes. Wish I'd got more on-sight but fell twice cos a hold snapped and once when the sidepull I'd just committed to turned out to be full of mud & slime! Venue was Mawr Quarry, and it deserves far more traffic. There was hardly any chalk on anything, which given how good the good routes were was strange.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Was walking with my LDWA in the Rhonnda Valleys on Saturday on a 25 miler, out with Mummy and Daddy on Sunday on a fifteen miler then led a 21 mile walk yesterday on the English Boarders, good weekend in all
Was walking with my LDWA in the Rhonnda Valleys on Saturday on a 25 miler, out with Mummy and Daddy on Sunday on a fifteen miler then led a 21 mile walk yesterday on the English Boarders, good weekend in all
Post edited at 08:58
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Nothing climbing related as I was on call until yesterday but pieced my motorcycle back together finally and went out on it yesterday.
Nothing climbing related as I was on call until yesterday but pieced my motorcycle back together finally and went out on it yesterday.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Climbed Ben Lui in perfect spring conditions. Not a cloud in the sky, cool, no wind, no biting beasties, surprisingly quiet for a holiday weekend too. Crampons were handy for the snow in the shade but the snow in the sun was knee deep slush. Brilliant day out.
Makes the week at work so much easier to come back to.
Climbed Ben Lui in perfect spring conditions. Not a cloud in the sky, cool, no wind, no biting beasties, surprisingly quiet for a holiday weekend too. Crampons were handy for the snow in the shade but the snow in the sun was knee deep slush. Brilliant day out.
Makes the week at work so much easier to come back to.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Had a great weekend on the culm. Some bouldering at Hartland Quay and nabbed my first F7a boulder!
Had a cracking day at Vicarage cliff yesterday, first visit there and was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of the rock. Did 4 routes there including Harpoon, which in my mind is a Culm classic. Cracking route, get on it!
Had a great weekend on the culm. Some bouldering at Hartland Quay and nabbed my first F7a boulder!
Had a cracking day at Vicarage cliff yesterday, first visit there and was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of the rock. Did 4 routes there including Harpoon, which in my mind is a Culm classic. Cracking route, get on it!
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Fantastic day on Garbh Bheinn on Sunday. Mountain cragging in shorts and T shirt in April; hopefully the start of the usual NW spring drought....
Fantastic day on Garbh Bheinn on Sunday. Mountain cragging in shorts and T shirt in April; hopefully the start of the usual NW spring drought....
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
took some friends up north face path Tryfan then Bristly ridge Glyder fach as their first scrambling experience
took some friends up north face path Tryfan then Bristly ridge Glyder fach as their first scrambling experience
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
just walking, no climbing, 5 of the ben lawers group on saturday and another munro in the area on sunday.
also drank a few glasses of wine, had a BBQ and spent some quality time with my pals.
i'm going to start a seperate rant thread about peoples driving if i can be bothered
just walking, no climbing, 5 of the ben lawers group on saturday and another munro in the area on sunday.
also drank a few glasses of wine, had a BBQ and spent some quality time with my pals.
i'm going to start a seperate rant thread about peoples driving if i can be bothered
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
I took a far too heavy rucsac for a walk around Loch Mullardoch. It was great.
I took a far too heavy rucsac for a walk around Loch Mullardoch. It was great.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Friday - 8 pitches in the Sennen area including the classic Demo Route.
Saturday & Sunday - Bosigran, including Commando Ridge and my first leads on Big Top and Allison Rib.
So, a pretty good weekend really.
Friday - 8 pitches in the Sennen area including the classic Demo Route.
Saturday & Sunday - Bosigran, including Commando Ridge and my first leads on Big Top and Allison Rib.
So, a pretty good weekend really.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Climbing at Hutton Roof yesterday with a couple of newbie leaders. I reckon if they can learn to place gear on limestone they can place it anywhere. Fabulous weather, even the stiff breeze was a warm one.
Climbing at Hutton Roof yesterday with a couple of newbie leaders. I reckon if they can learn to place gear on limestone they can place it anywhere. Fabulous weather, even the stiff breeze was a warm one.
Spent Friday and Saturday in Cheddar Gourge working on VS and HVS trad routes as I need work on my confidence on lead. Felt like I improved a bit, so a couple of good days out overall.
Post edited at 10:40
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
No climbing, well not on rock anyway. Took my bike to the lakes and cycled up some hills in preparation for the Fred Whitton. Turns out that riding up cols in Mallorca the other week was no training whatsoever for trying to get my arse up Honister and Hardknott and I got totally shut down on both of them. Only got two more weekends of training before the ride to try to get some steep climbing power into my legs - yikes!
No climbing, well not on rock anyway. Took my bike to the lakes and cycled up some hills in preparation for the Fred Whitton. Turns out that riding up cols in Mallorca the other week was no training whatsoever for trying to get my arse up Honister and Hardknott and I got totally shut down on both of them. Only got two more weekends of training before the ride to try to get some steep climbing power into my legs - yikes!
In reply to BarrySW19:
Were you being belayed by a nice Kiwi?
If so congrats on the lead mate, did my first lead on the second pitch of Alison just after you, thanks for the confidence boost!
Cant believe some of you saw no-one out in Cornwall, there were 20 odd out with Mynydd CC and Swindon and West Mids had similar numbers each. Believe LMC and Surrey Uni also had over 50 members each in the area, you've done well to have a quiet day.
So yeah good weekend in Cornwall, first lead, first multi pitch, first traverse, first sea cliff and a trip to the opera at Minack. Worth the 12hour drive home!
Were you being belayed by a nice Kiwi?
If so congrats on the lead mate, did my first lead on the second pitch of Alison just after you, thanks for the confidence boost!
Cant believe some of you saw no-one out in Cornwall, there were 20 odd out with Mynydd CC and Swindon and West Mids had similar numbers each. Believe LMC and Surrey Uni also had over 50 members each in the area, you've done well to have a quiet day.
So yeah good weekend in Cornwall, first lead, first multi pitch, first traverse, first sea cliff and a trip to the opera at Minack. Worth the 12hour drive home!
In reply to Pepper:
To be fair I knew the honey pot effect would likely be in full swing on Friday which is why we went to a reasonably minor crag compared to Sennen etc. Saw plenty of people out at Carn Barra
Helen you'll have to take me there sounds good
Sounds like lots of people got lots done. I think we should have a weekly roundup of ukc punterdom!
To be fair I knew the honey pot effect would likely be in full swing on Friday which is why we went to a reasonably minor crag compared to Sennen etc. Saw plenty of people out at Carn Barra
Helen you'll have to take me there sounds good
Sounds like lots of people got lots done. I think we should have a weekly roundup of ukc punterdom!
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Friday-Bowfell Buttress-Bowfell
Saturday-Giants Crawl-Dow Crag
Sunday-South Ridge Side Pike
Monday-Easy Terrace-Dow Crag (went to do C Ordinary but wind was too strong)
Amazing weather in the Lakes this Bank Holiday, if a little fresh and cold high up, but the high crags were totally dry.
Friday-Bowfell Buttress-Bowfell
Saturday-Giants Crawl-Dow Crag
Sunday-South Ridge Side Pike
Monday-Easy Terrace-Dow Crag (went to do C Ordinary but wind was too strong)
Amazing weather in the Lakes this Bank Holiday, if a little fresh and cold high up, but the high crags were totally dry.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Fri/Sat: fully briefed trespassing in Range West (climbing and photographing).
Mon: proper trespassing in the Mendips (new routing).
Fri/Sat: fully briefed trespassing in Range West (climbing and photographing).
Mon: proper trespassing in the Mendips (new routing).
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Which day were you at Chair Ladder ? there were plenty there on Saturday.
Which day were you at Chair Ladder ? there were plenty there on Saturday.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
I also put up a few problems on the culm that are worth checking out - at Damehole Point, photos and descritpions here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2403
I also put up a few problems on the culm that are worth checking out - at Damehole Point, photos and descritpions here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2403
In reply to Pepper:
No, that must have been another first leader. I was down with LMC - there were indeed about 50 of us, mainly at Bosigran and Sennen I think.
No, that must have been another first leader. I was down with LMC - there were indeed about 50 of us, mainly at Bosigran and Sennen I think.
In reply to GrahamD:
I was at Chair Ladder on Thursday. Should of got more done but 4.5hrs driving kinda takes some of the energy out of the day!
I was at Chair Ladder on Thursday. Should of got more done but 4.5hrs driving kinda takes some of the energy out of the day!
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
4.5 hours drive ? luxury
And you are right, Directors/Ashes and Diamonds should never be given VS.
4.5 hours drive ? luxury
And you are right, Directors/Ashes and Diamonds should never be given VS.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Friday - Skiing at Glencoe.
Saturday - Sea Kayaking on Loch Long and Loch Goil.
Sunday - Monday - Walking locally (Trossachs).
Friday - Skiing at Glencoe.
Saturday - Sea Kayaking on Loch Long and Loch Goil.
Sunday - Monday - Walking locally (Trossachs).
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Did Main Wall on Cyrn Las on Sunday then Dream of White Horses on Monday.
Forecast had the wetaher the wrong way around!
Did Main Wall on Cyrn Las on Sunday then Dream of White Horses on Monday.
Forecast had the wetaher the wrong way around!
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Weekend in Cornwall near St. Just. 1st day - Bosigran; had a migraine for the 1st time in 2 years which knocked me out for a couple of hours, but managed In-Between (VDiff) and Bosi Ridge - I still hate downclimbing and traversing. 2nd day - Trewavas; couple of VS's and worked on Spanker E3 6a. Good route - just 1cm too short on one section; pulled on a ratty crimp to work up it instead.
Then left before the rain swept in. Nice to be outside in the sunshine. Heading to Wales on Friday for some much-needed slate action.
Weekend in Cornwall near St. Just. 1st day - Bosigran; had a migraine for the 1st time in 2 years which knocked me out for a couple of hours, but managed In-Between (VDiff) and Bosi Ridge - I still hate downclimbing and traversing. 2nd day - Trewavas; couple of VS's and worked on Spanker E3 6a. Good route - just 1cm too short on one section; pulled on a ratty crimp to work up it instead.
Then left before the rain swept in. Nice to be outside in the sunshine. Heading to Wales on Friday for some much-needed slate action.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
I missed out on the Central Buttress centenary meet in Wasdale (due to Satuday morning committments and railway engineering mayhem), thereby guaranteeing you all nice weather in the Lakes as I am a rain goddess. I took my own private raincloud for a cycle ride in Kent.
I missed out on the Central Buttress centenary meet in Wasdale (due to Satuday morning committments and railway engineering mayhem), thereby guaranteeing you all nice weather in the Lakes as I am a rain goddess. I took my own private raincloud for a cycle ride in Kent.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Low grade bimbling about cragging in the Eastern Lakes, taking it easy since my full body harness hadn't arrived and baby bump is too big for my normal one. Plus a great day out walking in the fells on Sunday. Got home to find new harness is now here, so I can get back to fret-free preggers climbing next weekend
Low grade bimbling about cragging in the Eastern Lakes, taking it easy since my full body harness hadn't arrived and baby bump is too big for my normal one. Plus a great day out walking in the fells on Sunday. Got home to find new harness is now here, so I can get back to fret-free preggers climbing next weekend
In reply to Chris H:
I certainly was on occasion, that top was off and on in the sea breeze. How did you get on at Carn Barra? Were you on that route thats right down the bottom (very tidal) or on the bit thats a bit higher up? Great crag, must go back and get on Dialetic etc.
I certainly was on occasion, that top was off and on in the sea breeze. How did you get on at Carn Barra? Were you on that route thats right down the bottom (very tidal) or on the bit thats a bit higher up? Great crag, must go back and get on Dialetic etc.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Climbing in Craig Cywarch, dry and sunny, lambs frolicking in the green fields below. We were the only climbers on the crag. The routes could do with a bit of traffic, cummon guys!
Climbing in Craig Cywarch, dry and sunny, lambs frolicking in the green fields below. We were the only climbers on the crag. The routes could do with a bit of traffic, cummon guys!
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
We were on the bit nearest fox prom doing sea wolf very tidal so only time for one route
We were on the bit nearest fox prom doing sea wolf very tidal so only time for one route
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Soooo, another beautiful weekend here, whats everyone done?
Friday had a quick dash to Bristols infamous Ring Road Boulder and was pleasantly surprised. Ticked my first (soft) V4 and plenty others. Worked Friday night then got up and got out to Shorn Cliff on Saturday, and did 4 excellent routes including a clean second of Lundy Calling which was awesome. Nice to meet some chaps who had come down from London! Sunday out to Ogmore and got on Exposure Explosion, although only after doing 3 pitches on the wrong route on the slightly chossy upper break. Too much enthusiasm and not enough guidebook reading... Excellent route though with a properly hard finish, mind blowing exposure pretty much from the word go. Was feeling rather tired today so chilled out somewhat although may have a crack on fingerboard later.
Soooo, another beautiful weekend here, whats everyone done?
Friday had a quick dash to Bristols infamous Ring Road Boulder and was pleasantly surprised. Ticked my first (soft) V4 and plenty others. Worked Friday night then got up and got out to Shorn Cliff on Saturday, and did 4 excellent routes including a clean second of Lundy Calling which was awesome. Nice to meet some chaps who had come down from London! Sunday out to Ogmore and got on Exposure Explosion, although only after doing 3 pitches on the wrong route on the slightly chossy upper break. Too much enthusiasm and not enough guidebook reading... Excellent route though with a properly hard finish, mind blowing exposure pretty much from the word go. Was feeling rather tired today so chilled out somewhat although may have a crack on fingerboard later.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
I hung plasterboard all Saturday; which was fun because I was hung over from Friday. Had Sunday lunch at the parents on Sunday obviously, and went for a nice 40 mile ride around the Gower on my new bike today. Generally a good weekend with equal measures of productivity, gluttony and exercise.
Fingers crossed my injured wrist is getting stronger and I'll get some climbing done soon.
I hung plasterboard all Saturday; which was fun because I was hung over from Friday. Had Sunday lunch at the parents on Sunday obviously, and went for a nice 40 mile ride around the Gower on my new bike today. Generally a good weekend with equal measures of productivity, gluttony and exercise.
Fingers crossed my injured wrist is getting stronger and I'll get some climbing done soon.
Post edited at 22:33
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Got sandbagged by the CC, climbed an extremely easy route allegedly at the same grade, sandbagged a mate quite horrendously and helped teach some beginners how to lead. A good weekend.
Got sandbagged by the CC, climbed an extremely easy route allegedly at the same grade, sandbagged a mate quite horrendously and helped teach some beginners how to lead. A good weekend.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Bouldering at Burbage south on Saturday then a few routes at stanage on Sunday. Climbed Paucity HVS 5b which is comfortably my hardest climb to date do pretty chuffed with the weekend.
Bouldering at Burbage south on Saturday then a few routes at stanage on Sunday. Climbed Paucity HVS 5b which is comfortably my hardest climb to date do pretty chuffed with the weekend.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Climbed Senator and Gladiator at Roundhill with only curlew, lapwing and kite for company.
Climbed Senator and Gladiator at Roundhill with only curlew, lapwing and kite for company.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
I worked on this episodes about climbing in Mallorca. Here is the last one http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/the-bouldering-on-majorca-is-really-har... It was published this weekend. enjoy it!
I worked on this episodes about climbing in Mallorca. Here is the last one http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/the-bouldering-on-majorca-is-really-har... It was published this weekend. enjoy it!
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Saturday did Doom on Craig Llywelyn, Cwm Cywarch. Sunday walked to Llyn Arenig Fawr but bailed for the slate when it rained. Monday got up early because of the forecast went back to Simdde Ddu and did Gyllion. Lots of heather bashing too.
Saturday did Doom on Craig Llywelyn, Cwm Cywarch. Sunday walked to Llyn Arenig Fawr but bailed for the slate when it rained. Monday got up early because of the forecast went back to Simdde Ddu and did Gyllion. Lots of heather bashing too.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Wandered into the clag on Goatfell, wandered back down as it was too cold to hang around. It was intended to be a scramble, but it was decided a quick up and down was in order to beat the predicted rain (that never materialised)
Wandered into the clag on Goatfell, wandered back down as it was too cold to hang around. It was intended to be a scramble, but it was decided a quick up and down was in order to beat the predicted rain (that never materialised)
In reply to Jim C:
Yes, the predicted rain meant we were on the Rosa Slabs very early and could easily have done another route instead of shopping and going to the pub.
Yes, the predicted rain meant we were on the Rosa Slabs very early and could easily have done another route instead of shopping and going to the pub.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Elsewhere on the site
Loading Notifications...