UKC

Might be going to Pembroke for 3 days this Monday. Where would be good for HVS-E2 routes that is not bird banned and not part of the firing range? Is all of Mother Careys bird banned or just the Space face? Any advice would be appreciated.

thanks

mike

In reply to mike lawrence?:

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=420

'There may be a seasonal restriction to protect chough nesting in the area of Inner Space - Star Gate - check signs at site'

Even if no seasonal restriction, beware of being puked on by fulmars in that area. The rest of the crag should be open.

In reply to mike lawrence?:

I think strait gate, rock idol, brazen buttress are all ok at the mo

Barcud is on too at the mo but 50mins drive from bosherton. That said, mother careys is about the same

In reply to mike lawrence?:

Mowing Word.

In reply to Ian Parsons:

No problem, unless there's a temporary restriction posted at the top.

In reply to John2:

Always thought that the East Face was well worth a visit for routes in the OP's grade range, and I don't think that's ever been subject to a restriction.

In reply to Ian Parsons:

OK sorry, I thought you were asking if there were restrictions at Mowing Word. Last summer in the very hot weather Mowing Word was the place to go - the west face in the morning, and the east face in the afternoon.

In reply to John2:

No apology necessary; my first contribution was uncharacteristically succinct, and probably somewhat ambiguous!

To the OP: you're probably aware that the St Govan's road is scheduled for closure, thus theoretically ruling out St Govan's and St Govan's East; in my experience it can be worth phoning on the morning in question to check whether this is actually happening, as presumably closure is sometimes pre-arranged (and notified) for a particular week but not actually taken up in its entirety.

In reply to Ian Parsons:

Ian,

Mowing Word sounds a good option, Rockfax has it as bird banned but the BMC don't so will give it a go. I cannot find a number to ring for the St Govans road, do you know what it is? Current plan is St Govans, Mowing Word and Mother Careys.

Thanks for the help,

mike

In reply to mike lawrence?:

Hi Mike

Yes - the current Rockfax pre-dates the lifting of nesting restrictions at Mowing Word to which the BMC's RAD refers. I've spent all or part of every May Bank Holiday week (ie the weekdays, not the holiday) in Pembroke for the last ten years, and when the St Govan's road was closed the East Face of Mowing Word and the various cliffs between Mowing Word and Broadhaven were usually the only available fare without travelling further afield; the change at Mowing Word a couple of years back obviously made a considerable and welcome difference to activity at this time of year.

The phone number given in the current CC guides is 01646 662367. This gives you a recorded message about firing times and the various road closures, but I don't know whether it includes short notice changes from the notified closures. I'm sure I recall being able to ring and speak to a human on a daily basis, perhaps at the guardhouse; the previous (1995) guide gives 01646 661321 ext 4360 (office hours) but I'm not sure if it's still in use. The Defence Training Estate (Pembrokeshire) has a public info line on 01646 662324 which may be able to help. If all else fails simply drive to Bosherston and if the sign says "closed" take the other road to the NT carpark at Broadhaven and go to Mowing Word!

Another area worth considering is the section of coast by Penally army camp, a bit east of Mother Carey's. Beck's Bay is probably the easiest to access, via a fat fisherman's rope down the back of the zawn at its west end, and contains the *** E1 Magic Flute (which I haven't done). Bubbleton has a few routes in your grade range; take an extra rope as the solitary abseil stake on the overlying slope needs backing-up to gear placements in various small outcrops just below the crest. Lone Slab has a bunch of E1s that mostly finish with the same runout moves on worrying rock, less runout if you use the ab rope as a runner, or devoid of worry if you unashamedly shin up the rope to finish; despite hunting for a good half hour we couldn't find the stake for this one so rigged off various rock belays and something at the top (so, again, spare rope useful unless you've got a long ab rope - I think we had a 70m). All of these areas offer the most at low tide, which I think will be around lunchtime or a bit after.

Have fun.

Ian P

In reply to Ian Parsons:

Ian,

That's fantastic. I want to buy all the definitives but was waiting to join the climbers club first so this info is really useful.

thanks again,

mike

In reply to mike lawrence?:

Just dug up another number jotted down as "Pembroke firing": 01646 662499; I think it's probably the Main Gate Guardhouse.