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Climbing in glasses ?

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 sarahjk 01 May 2014
So I am getting to the age where my arms are too short for reading, I need glasses for reading and close work [45].

Last couple of times climbing at the crag I have found it hard to focus to place gear, partly adrenaline I suspect, but also the contrast between far and very near vision, all a bit disconcerting.

Does anyone have any recommendations for eyewear that would help with this ? I am about to get some half/cutaway glasses for orienteering and adventure racing, would these work ?

Cheers

Sarah [who is trying to embrace maturing, rather than simply getting old]
 BnB 01 May 2014
In reply to sarahjk:

I wear presbyopic contact lenses. They are so much better than glasses (they don't mist up, or drop off the end of your nose). You can get them in daily disposable format so you don't need to commit to them for regular daily use.
 hang_about 01 May 2014
In reply to sarahjk:

Second the vote for disposable contacts. They are so good for sports
OP sarahjk 01 May 2014
In reply to BnB:

Sorry, but there is no way on earth I could ever consider contacts, the idea of putting something in my eye fills me with squeamish horror. Definitely glasses ! I only need them for the close up stuff, and [so far] can manage without in good light, but I know it isnt going to get any better !
 Jon Stewart 01 May 2014
In reply to sarahjk:

I think most people of 45+ find that climbing without reading glasses is fine, since you're rarely reading small letters at 40cm distance once you've read the route description. It might be that since you're aware of the difficulty in reading which is still a new thing, you're "overnoticing" the effect on this other task which is both at a greater distance and which doesn't require the same level of acuity.

But, if you want to be able to see both far away and close up while climbing, then it's contact lenses rather than glasses you'll need. It's always something of visual compromise, but with some trial and error you could end up with lenses that do exactly what you want. Varifocal glasses are not a good bet for climbing: you have to look through a specific part of the lens to get what you want in focus - fine for TV, computer and book; not so good for route ahead, footholds and microwire placement!

I definitely wouldn't go with the half-eye type things for climbing - what you want to see close up is not always down there - in fact hopefully it's up on a nice well-protected crack!

I guess there's a possibility you could get some kind of compromise prescription glasses (try some +1.00D ready readers as an experiment, but not leading a route at your limit!) but they'll make the distance blurred which sounds more annoying than a bit of blur at near? Not heard of people using this solution, so I assume it's crap compared with putting up with slight blur at near.

There's a chap on here who works in optics too (I'm just finishing my degree, not qualified yet) who's probably also a presbyope who might give better advice than me.
 SteveoS 01 May 2014
In reply to sarahjk:
3rd for disposables.
Post edited at 22:26
 Jon Stewart 01 May 2014
In reply to sarahjk:

> Sorry, but there is no way on earth I could ever consider contacts, the idea of putting something in my eye fills me with squeamish horror.

> Definitely glasses !

Haha. It really is absolutely fine. Glasses suck for climbing, even when you're just plain speccy without the presbyopia.

 coinneach 01 May 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

I tried with glasses . . . . . . Hated it.

Not just the lack of periphical vision but knocked them off while trying to take slings off over my shoulders.

Contacts on the crags all the way.
 alexcollins123 01 May 2014
In reply to sarahjk:

Everybody says this, but the optician will sit with you for a long time getting you used to putting them in and taking them out. You will soon get used to them, even if you are squeamish the first few times. Other than laser eye surgery there's nothing better.

Failing that, a you can get a bit of cord to tie around the back of your head if you're worried about glasses falling off. But that looks stupid, try lenses instead.
 Jon Stewart 01 May 2014
In reply to alexcollins123:

> Other than laser eye surgery there's nothing better.

Not if you're 45. You can't laser away presbyopia unfortunately. Or fortunately, depending on how you look at it.

I think the options are disposable multifocal (or monovision) contacts or nowt really.
 veteye 01 May 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Correction; varifocal contacts come in hard gas permeable form too.I have some and find them pretty good.I've had mine for a couple of years now and am thinking of going back to change them as my presbyopia has worsened,whilst my myopia is the same as it has been for a couple of decades.
The down side to contacts is getting grit under them just when you get to the crux of the route.
Also if you are away camping you have to be really fastidious in your cleaning routine with the hard ones.
On Denali,my contact lens solution started to become like golden syrup or glue and so I slept with the bottles in my sleeping bag.
 Jon Stewart 01 May 2014
In reply to veteye:

> Correction; varifocal contacts come in hard gas permeable form too.

Yes, but they're not something you'd recommend for occasional use - RGPs are for the hardcore! I used to wear them, thankfully toric softs have come out since, I much much prefer them (although vision's not quite perfect in them).

Out of interest, do you know what sort they are? Do they have a reading portion like a bifocal spectacle lense that "translates" when you look down, or are they a true multifocal type with simultaneous (concentric) prescriptions so you can see near/far in any direction of gaze?
 popebenedictus 01 May 2014
In reply to sarahjk:

Having climbed in glasses all the time (and occassionally using contact lenses) I'd say it makes no difference. It just depends what you're used to. As a happy VS cruiser (leading up to E1) I just use my every-day glasses for climbing in.
 Jon Stewart 01 May 2014
In reply to popebenedictus:

Yes, if you're not (yet) presbyopic then wearing glasses is alright (as long as you don't knock them off into the sea etc), but the OP is no longer able to change the focus of her eyes from distance to near which brings with it a whole new world of optical considerations.
 veteye 01 May 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

My contacts are not zoned,so I can look in any direction with the same degree of pseudo-depth-of field.
OP sarahjk 01 May 2014
In reply to sarahjk:

Gosh, a lot more technical than I was expecting.

I have never needed glasses before, really excellent long distance vision, just getting to 'that age'. Not sure if that is what is causing it or some other stuff going on. It has happened a couple of times, been climbing well if a little 'pushed' and struggled to focus on close up crack/gear etc, not too worrying at this point, but would like to avoid it. The comment about struggling to switch from distant to close vision rings very true.

Cheers.
 Jon Stewart 02 May 2014
In reply to sarahjk:

> I have never needed glasses before, really excellent long distance vision, just getting to 'that age'. Not sure if that is what is causing it

Yep, that's it.

> or some other stuff going on.

Very unlikely. I think most people 45+ who don't need glasses for distance just put up with stuff inbetween close up (when they use their reading specs) and distance (4+ meters) being a bit blurred. I reckon you're just noticing it because it's new. Everyone has to get used to it eventually (or use fancy contact lenses).
In reply to alexcollins123:

I've climbed in glasses for years, but always with a safety strap attached to them, of the kind used for skiing. Does that look stupid? It looks pretty sensible to me. Your generation must *very* sensitive to your appearance - personally I couldn't care a sh1t what it looks like!
In reply to sarahjk:

> Sorry, but there is no way on earth I could ever consider contacts, the idea of putting something in my eye fills me with squeamish horror.

That's a common reaction. You must know yourself it's just a psychological block, which can be gotten over like all others, most people find it much easier to adapt to than they expect, given time.
Some people say they simply cannot swallow tablets, no matter how small or crushed, and that gag reflex seems much harder to overcome than the corneal reflex. And as for the thought of it, Nobody would want their faeces emptying into a bag on their belly, but when faced with an easily resected rectal tumour and given the alternative, everybody adapts. (Sorry, extreme example)

I'm short sighted as fcuk and wear glasses if I'm not biking or climbing or anything, but too often climbing they rub up against the rock, get dislodged, slip down my sweaty nose, steam up or get rained on.

They once pushed off my face against the rock doing a balancy move right near the top of a two pitch E1 on Bird Rock, mid-Wales, and fell onto the scree. Topped out, set a belay, brought the second then fumbled down , all feeling round like a blind man in the dark. Found them unharmed, unbelievably, but...

Nah, contacts every time. And have to be dailies, don't be faffing with that cleaning and storing palaver, especially if camping. No, bit of grit in or falls out swimming, -just chuck it and stick another in.
 Jon Stewart 02 May 2014
In reply to Just Another Dave:

> Nah, contacts every time. And have to be dailies, don't be faffing with that cleaning and storing palaver, especially if camping. No, bit of grit in or falls out swimming, -just chuck it and stick another in.

Agree that disposable contacts are great. But if you must swim in them, make sure you put a new pair in after, you definitely do not want acanthamoeba growing in your cornea. Google image "acanthamoeba keratitis" if you need convincing (I decided against posting a gory link as my aim is not to put everyone off ever wearing CLs).
 Martin W 02 May 2014
In reply to Just Another Dave:
> That's a common reaction. You must know yourself it's just a psychological block, which can be gotten over like all others, most people find it much easier to adapt to than they expect, given time.

Not everyone does get over it. When I was considering toric contacts I actually got quite good at putting them in: it was just one touch to the eyeball and they were good to go. But no way on earth could I manage any of the various manipulations that were suggested to me to get them out (having pudgy fingers and no fingernails didn't help, on top of the squeamishness). Without being able to do that, sensibly, they wouldn't let me have them.

After speaking to the optician about the fundamental requirement, I now have a pair of titanium-framed varifocals in a semi-wraparound style. They're light, and they have a fairly low and, importantly, smooth profile (unlike my day-to-day varifocals which have sticky-out hinges) so there's less risk of them catching on stuff and getting in the way. And yes, I use a neoprene strap to keep them in place (hey, if it's good enough for cool Aussie surfers, it's good enough for me). I use them for climbing, cycling, running and even skiing - they fit under my goggles very nicely.

As for having to look through specific parts of the lens to get the right focal length for the distance you're trying to see at: I have this flexible mounting system for my specs which allows me make such adjustments. After a while it becomes completely unconscious in use. It's called my neck. I reckon all varifocal users tend to develop a bit of a "nodding dog" habit. Obviously it's not 100% ideal but the disadvantages are very minor once you get used to it. With compact, close-fitting glasses the degree of head movement required is really pretty minimal.
Post edited at 13:29
 nbonnett 02 May 2014
In reply to sarahjk:

I have contacts but the only sport i don't use them for is rock-climbing.

I've got varifocal lenses and my only criteria is shatter proof lenses and and good ear piece so they don't fall off.
 Jon Stewart 02 May 2014
In reply to Martin W:

Glad you've got varifocals that work well for climbing. My fear would be that ones good enough not to be annoying would be rather expensive as a second pair that's likely to get a bit of hammer.
 alexcollins123 02 May 2014
In reply to Martin W:

yeesh! Thats why you're struggling to take them out! Never use your fingernails to take them out!! Either pinch them between your pudgy fingers or swipe them down. You'll end up scratching your eye if you scrape them off your face!
 Martin W 02 May 2014
In reply to alexcollins123: Thanks for your advice but I think you misunderstand: since I keep my nails extremely short, I could never have even tried to use them to get the lenses off my cornea. I mentioned the lack of fingernails because of the increased pudginess it causes in the fingertips. All my attempts to get the hang of contacts were under the supervision of an optician, so they wouldn't have let me do anything dangerous like you suggest.

And believe me, I tried every method they suggested, but to no avail. Pinching did work to get the lens off, but my pudgy fingers couldn't grip the loosened lens enough to actually remove it from my eye, and the damn thing just sucked itself straight back on. After many failed attempts while also fighting against the urge to run screaming in the other direction (the squeamishness, remember?) I gave it up as not worth the effort.
 Martin W 02 May 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> Glad you've got varifocals that work well for climbing. My fear would be that ones good enough not to be annoying would be rather expensive as a second pair that's likely to get a bit of hammer.

Facing a choice between that and not being able to see properly, the cost becomes less of a deciding factor. Contacts wouldn't have been exactly cheap, either; over the lifetime of the glasses (ie the period of usefulness of the prescription) there wasn't much in it. And I don't know about you, but I don't habitually rub my face against the rock when I'm climbing. My helmet also does quite a good job of keeping the upper part of my face away from the rock if I were to get careless.

The point I'm trying to make is that, despite what almost everyone who uses contacts will try to tell you (witness many of the responses to this thread), for a small minority of presbyopes contacts just aren't a workable solution. For people like that, of whom I am one, it turns out that many of the apparent disadvantages of glasses can be addressed quite effectively.
In reply to sarahjk:

I have been wearing my glasses so far, they fit pretty snugly and I haven't knocked them off - that said, one time I did come pretty close.

Contacts are great but since I don't wear them every day I find my depth perception and overall vision isnt the best when I first put them in which is why I haven't used them so far.

I think the most important thing is that you feel comfortable. If you are worrying about your contact lenses then you aren't going to be climbing at your best. A glasses strap to stop them falling if you do knock them sounds like a good idea though, I might have to get myself one of those.
 nbonnett 02 May 2014
In reply to Martin W:

problem i have when trad climbing in contacts is i can't see small runner placements you know when looking really close up, plus i find that with all the chalk flying around and if i scratch my eyes the contacts move in hey presto i can't see.

Once your used to getting them out its really really easy . I still need a mirror to get them out though !!!!!
 yeti 02 May 2014
In reply to sarahjk:

I'd agree that a glasses strap thing is a good idea, I've knocked mine off with the rope a couple of times, I just need to remember to use it
 Sean Kelly 02 May 2014
In reply to sarahjk:

When leading Nervous Laughter (E1) at Telegraph Hole, one of the optics fell out of my frames and it proved pretty impossible to climb with only one lens. so discarding the glasses and 20 feet above my decent runner it was like climbing via braille. Quite testing!
 kevin stephens 02 May 2014
In reply to sarahjk:

I started to wear my vari-focals for climbing when I started to have difficulty seeing small hold close up, especially in gloomy conditions. They were a revelation and I wouldn't climb without them.

Make sure you pay a little extra for the focal zones to be tailored to your eyes; much less disconcerting. I also (of course) use a neck strap when climbing; mainly to prevent me knocking them off accidentally. I soon found myself subconsciously angling my head to look through different parts of the lenses for handholds and footholds.

Also great for driving; sharp view of the instruments and road ahead
 Rob Exile Ward 02 May 2014
In reply to sarahjk:

'Gosh, a lot more technical than I was expecting.'

Yeah, well keeping the Grim Reaper at bay is a bit of a beggar.. Always worth remembering that in evolutionary terms, after 40 we're all living beyond our design parameters.

There is no 100% solution, if your vision has been good in the past then inevitably it gets worse. This is not a health issue, it's called life.

Some permutation of contacts are probably your best bet, being squeamish is just daft, you need to get over it - you didn't used to like climbing above gear, did you? As Jon says, the right optician will teach you how to take them in and out properly. Disposable multi focal contacts are the way forward for sporty presbyopes (> 40 ish.)
 Jon Stewart 03 May 2014
In reply to Martin W:

> I don't habitually rub my face against the rock when I'm climbing.

I unfortunately do - one of the reasons I much prefer contacts for climbing is the scratching of specs when I use my face accidentally as an extra point of contact.

> The point I'm trying to make is that, despite what almost everyone who uses contacts will try to tell you (witness many of the responses to this thread), for a small minority of presbyopes contacts just aren't a workable solution. For people like that, of whom I am one, it turns out that many of the apparent disadvantages of glasses can be addressed quite effectively.

Thanks, obviously it's something I'm interested in as a climber and trainee optom. I most often see people putting up with near blur rather than using varifocals (but there are lots of factors that might influence this choice), good to know that they're a decent option. Presbyopia and effectiveness of varifocals for different tasks is something you can't really simulate to see what it's actually like before it happens. Looking forward to that...
 auld al 03 May 2014
In reply to sarahjk:

another vote for the varifocals and wearing a helmet also protecting them

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