UKC

For lovers of low grade Yorkshire grit esoterica this tilted chimney groove is pretty unique and great fun. Described as dangerous in the last guide it's actually on good rock and worth a star if the brambles haven't taken over. Thought it worth a mention as we cleared them today to climb it. We tried to remove the obvious (avoidable) suspect block near the top of the chimney but it wouldn't come out. It's about S 4a* if you start up the wall left of the short corner, a bit harder up the corner and if you don't like the slabby chimney moves you can amble up stepped rock just left.

In reply to Offwidth:

Forgot to add its down as a prospective star in the new guide so it's not just our view that it's worth a punt while the brambles have been cut back. We also visited the lower quarry and the brambles are sadly massing in force there.

In reply to Offwidth:
Wayhay! Another Baildon fan. I've cleaned up some routes in the lower quarry. Removed a load of brambles from the top of Triang. We've also cleared the top of Hemispheres. Lightning and Futurama are also good, worth a look. Harder than the old guide surgests. The loose block on Lightning has now gone so it's quite safe.
I was in box quarry yesterday. The routes on the left wall looking in are good. Did Spider, the one above the paint splash yesterday. I'd say it was worth E1 5b. The top needs clearing off but not the grass. You need it to pull over. Great stuff.

In reply to PaulTanton:

We saw chalk that seemed to lead from Triang into Desperado, was that you?

Any other non starred sub extreme stuff worth a special look? We have done the stuff right of HMS Amethyst and the Scar Buttress routes

It is a bit sad that we hardly ever see other climbers there yet at Ilkley yesterday there were loads.

In reply to Offwidth:

Yes that was me on Saturday.
Bramble Crack, Matey Crack and Joanna are all good. Also worth a look is Pillar. I think Baildon is far better than Ilkley as quarries go. Baildon rock is a bit suspect but it's good training for Red Wall at Gogarth.

In reply to PaulTanton:

There's some good stuff. I also like Paddy's Route, Whillan's Arete, Epitaph (and the direct), Big Curver, Hades, Scar (up to the peg anyway, couldn't comment on the top).

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Yep there all good. Ram must be the most undergraded route in the quarry. Scar is fine. It gets easier after the peg. You should try Moria. Same grade but I think better climbing.
Im not sure how much coverage there will be for Baildon in the new guide. I did some route checking at Guisecliff with a mate, Bruce, who wrote that section. A lot of the work we put in got eddited out. I can see why at Guisecliff cos no one ever goes there.

In reply to Offwidth:

Another vote for Baildon, Hades, Epitaph Direct and Joanna are definitely favorites.

In reply to PaulTanton:

Cheers Paul... happy with starred stuff as it speaks for itself and we have done most of the best, its the better routes of the non-starred stuff we'll look at at if we have time.

In reply to Offwidth:

I'd be interested in your thoughts on Count Up (VD going on VS), and Turk in the Hole (HS 4a, we thought HS 4c).

In reply to Simon Caldwell:
I said at least HS 4b for the guide and will be putting it in as possibly HS 4c on our notes. See also the A climb thread where we seem to be agreeing again on Oak Tree Slab. This wont do you know Count Up is now on our list.