UKC

There is sometimes a bit of trouble route-finding on Quartz Icicle at Wen Zawn, by the looks of the logbooks. I'm after some help on the route description for the 3rd pitch in particular. I have the Ground Up guide. In it, the topo at that height is next to useless and apparently the description may not be spot on.

So,

P1: first pitch of Wen
P2: follow quartz seam to Concrete Chimney,
P3: ... now what, please

Cake

In reply to Cake:

I did this about this time last year. I led the second pitch which is the meat of the route. We then got a bit lost because I agree the description is poor.

The third pitch we did went up staying right of the concrete chimney. It quickly got to an overhang at which point the guy leading and myself had a debate on where it went. I consulted the guide and he ended up passing the overhang on the right. Gradually going up trending right and left in places to avoid various features. It got a bit loose but was never that hard.

I still have no idea if we went the right way.

In reply to Cake:

We did it following the description in the then-current guidebook (early 90s) and had no difficulties whatsoever with routefinding. Iirc the top pitch was to the left of the chimney, which Line 11 on this pciture appears to confirm:

http://www.bmcshop.co.uk/images/WenZawn2.pdf

The middle pitch is stunningly good.

In reply to AlanLittle:

I've not done it but from friends' accounts the description 'womble up to the top on any convenient line’ would be perfectly adequate.

jcm

In reply to The Grist:

Thanks for the response. Was that way good? My main hope is that we don't find a way up which is beyond 5b. Hopefully we can gather a consensus though

In reply to AlanLittle:

Line 11 on that topo is Concrete Chimney - Quartz Icicle is line 10 which finishes to the right of the rubbly chimney. Don't ask me exactly where though; I got lost too.

In reply to Cake:

I did the route last year, leading the icicle pitch. My partner didnt like the look of the right hand finish (which i think was the original way to do pitch 3). We went up and left over the overlap, which seemed 5b in grade, and it was very good climbing. It seems to be roughly in line with the left hand dotted line leading from the belay on the link above.

To be honest i think once youve dispatched the icicle any finish will do, they are all exposed and look good!

In reply to vertigo714:

Yep - left over the overlap for us too and a scrappy finish after that. Seemed easy 5b to me seconding it.

In reply to vertigo714:



Fair comments but I had to go back and do it again, after hearing about the "diamond " finish.

It definitely made for a more complete and satisfying experience to finish on the right, if a bit of a battle to find the best line.

In reply to AlanLittle:

I think the old green Gogarth guide had better descriptions for many of the routes. I've had email conversations with current authors about some.

In reply to Pagan:

Oops, you're right. Sorry OP, wrong route

In reply to Jonny2vests:

I still carry my Pete Crew (1969 ? ) guide.

Alec Sharpe's 1977 guide was very good too.

In reply to Rick Graham:

I shall have to make a return trip then, and get my climbing partner to man up!

In reply to Cake: if anybody can improve on the route description for Quartz Icicle on the Gogarth wiki please do so http://gogarth.wikifoundry.com/page/wen+zawn

In reply to Rick Graham:

Totally agree with Rick. The RH finish was awesome and by far the best bit of the the route. The exact line - well not totally sure about that

In reply to Kafoozalem:

You can *just about* climb anywhere on the Wen slab, I think High Pressure at easy E4 is the hardest route and that's pretty steady (from memory). I did QI in 1981 so have very vague memories of it. The main pitch was good but the top pitch was more of a wandering around trying to find decent rock. Not as disappointing as the top pitch of T-Rex though.

In reply to Kafoozalem:

I know the line but the hell I can describe it. My best effort: it goes rightwards but not too far and then up on really good holds!

In reply to Cake: Here is a picture of me on the top pitch in the late 60's/early 70's. Probably doesn't help much though. Picture courtesy of Keith Sanders

https://www.dropbox.com/s/j6f5ni591aotmut/QI.jpg

In reply to Cake:

Thanks for the responses. I now know that there is a 'best' way up,but I have no real description apart from 'further right'! When do you go further right?

Owen

In reply to Rick Graham:



That was our impression too. First time I did it (in the seventies I think) we did normal finish then more recently the right hand - no doubt at all that it improves the route. The only advice I can offer about route-finding on it is to trust your judgement.