UKC

Has anyone done this route? It was in the last Langdale guide as VDiff and given 2 stars.

In the likely case that nobody has done it, can someone tell me what the new guidebook has to say about it?

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

The description, grade and quality are identical in the new guide. Named after Jack Umpleby's wife.

Steve

In reply to Steve Clegg:

Hmm. We climbed it yesterday, and there was no sign that it had been climbed in years! The "impeccable rock" mentioned may well exist, but it's hidden under a layer of moss (though we trundled one large hold on the first pitch). There were the remains of a very rusty nut just below the crux of pitch 2, and the finishing holds of the crux itself had to be excavated from under 4 inches (no exaggeration) of moss. Even then it was technically much harder than anything on Bowfell Buttress (which we did before).
In its current state probably something like HS/VS 4b, might be HS 4a if ever clean. Certainly not worth any stars at the moment. I doubt it was checked for the new guide, possibly not for the previous one either!

In reply to Simon Caldwell:
I believe an E6 of mine, Eulogy was left out to make room for Mary Ann. Apparently the direct finish has been included but not the main start which is odd as it was once quoted on UK climbing as "the most popular E6 in the lake district".

"It's a fantastic line, in an impressive situation & a route I can't wait to get back onto - I'll nail it next time" Adrian Nelham
(adriannelhams.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/eulogy-today)

Eulogy
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=264391

In reply to Steve Crowe:

Steve, you need to look at the new guide to decide whether your route gets enough credit.

Simon, I did Mary Ann 40 years (and 2 weeks) ago with Jack. I suspect it was clean then. As to its present state, the usual Lakeland caveats apply.

Steve

In reply to Steve Clegg:
You are right, I haven't seen the new guide but other people have expressed surprise at Eulogy's omission/treatment anyway the direct finish is a poor continuation to the excellent start!


Also I haven't done Mary Ann and I'm not suggesting that Mary Ann should have been dropped for my route either?

In reply to Steve Crowe:

Nothing to complain about, Steve.

Route in as Eulogy Direct, full description, you and Karin as FA and Dave as FA of direct finish. Only ** though

What about me, Ian and Steve on the Watch? Written out and the original climbing on it attributed to other later routes.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Thanks for reporting on this route. I had pencilled it in as one to do with the Sev route on the same crag, but will probably cross it off now!

In reply to Steve Clegg:


Inded. I was just surprised at how completely they applied despite its being an easy-to-access 2-star VDiff!

In reply to Ann S:


I assume the Severe is probably in better condition, as it's in the FRCC selected guide. We'll certainly be trying it next time we're up there - which shouldn't be too long, there are loads of good long sub-VS routes on the Bowfell crags.

As for Mary Ann - it's worth a look if you're there anyway. Just don't stand at the bottom and think "it's 2 stars, it must get cleaner higher up", as it doesn't!

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Whereas when you stand at the bottom of Eulogy and look up you know it's clean and well worth the two stars.

In reply to Steve Crowe:

Actually I looked up and thought "there's a route that goes up there? blinking flip!" or words to that effect

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Cheers Simon.