UKC

Got a few days off next week, and the forecast seems to be improving daily - unusually, especially for West Cornwall. I have a bit of a hit list in mind, wind/tides/weather permitting:

Bosi: Raven Wall, Bow Wall, Thin Wall Special
Sennen: Samson Arete, Gillian, Gillian Direct, Golva
Levan's Wall: Bermuda Wall

Any other suggestions for must-do routes HVS-E3?

In reply to bpmclimb:

Hi Brian.

Waltzing Matilda on Bosigran Ridge (cover of supplement) & Desolation Row if it's dry.

Tom

In reply to bpmclimb:
Nice sandbag list. (Don't know Bermuda Wall).

Kafoozalem?
The Ghost (Yikes).
Swift flight of Fancy (if dry, unlikely in May tbh)
Delilah.
Sunny Corner Lane.

In reply to bpmclimb:

Its not all granite down there either! Some of my favourite Cornish climbs have been at the likes of Kenidjack, Carn Gowla and Gurnards Head area. Two stand outs are Rock Dancer/Saxon and Astral Stroll. And havnt climbed the harder stuff but what about Mercury, Rainbow Games, America, Behemoth etc?

In reply to Kafoozalem:


haha, I placed 2 full sets of RPs on that!

In reply to bpmclimb:

Bah.

Third time of trying to post this - bl**dy internet connection. Now starting to feel a bit rehearsed, but here goes:

Don't dismiss VS in Cornwall - VS and E2 are probably the 'it' grades hereabouts. If you were looking for a slightly easier day, Chair Ladder has some stellar VS and HS routes (Diocese, South Face Direct, Seal Slab, Flannel Avenue. Pegasus is full of angry birds at the moment and the first pitch of Terrier's Tooth has fallen down; climbable, but not inviting). There's also Bishop's Rib at E1.

At Sennen, also check out Zig-zag Route (HVS) and Delilah (E2).

Pordenack: Stone Boom (E2), Cain (E3) and, if you're going well, Immaculate Arete at E4. You should have a punt at Gig in the Sky (E2 5c/6a), which is a bit of a two-move wonder but fabulously photogenic.

St Loy is a great spot, and out of the crowds. If you camp at Treverven, it's a short walk-in. Chlorophyll Cluster, Monochrome Men, Sabre Dance all at E1, and a bunch of short pitches from E1-E3, which would all be starred classics in the Peak.

Carn Barra is great at your grades; haven't been there this year, so don't know what the start of Grande Plage is looking like, but that's unmissable.

If you want a bit of esoterica, dig out Vessacks West. There are a couple of cracking HVSs there and an unlikely looking but very good E2. Proper Cornish ticks.

Unless you're here for a second week, that ought to hold you

Martin

In reply to bpmclimb:

Saxon is a must do
but some of the less well travelled routes worth searching out are:
Rosebud in June HVS 5a Zennor Cliff
Paragon HVS 5a Bosigran
Excalibur HVS 5a Zawn Kellys
Colomen HVS 4c Trewavas

In reply to bpmclimb:

Journey to Ixtlan at Carn Gowla. An adventure at a reasonable grade.

In reply to bpmclimb:

Astrall Stroll is one of the best E1s in Britian and a sand bag too so by the sound of things you'll like it.

If you are at Bosi. Commando Ridge is a brilliant route to finish the day with.

Variety Show in the Great Zawn is pretty good too.

I thought Saxon was overhyped.

In reply to all:

Thanks for all the suggestions. Some I must admit I've already done, but a fair few I haven't, and will definitely be making some additions to my list

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:


Agreed. I must admit I have already climbed Saxon and Rock Dancer. I thought that RD was the better route by some margin. (BTW I also remember being less than comforted by the nut belays for the two routes, which were in a slightly unstable rocky outcrop just above a tiny path. Has the thing fallen into the sea yet?)

I've probably given the impression with my OP that I'm new to Cornish climbing, sorry about that everyone! I grew up in Cornwall, and have made regular trips back since moving away. So I have (of course) climbed Commando Ridge. However, I haven't yet done Astral Stroll, despite it being a on my wish list for years. I've also never climbed in the Great Zawn (no - me neither), and at Gurnard's Head have only climbed Right Angle.

I like the suggestion not to rule out Cornish VS (that would mean missing some of the best climbs in the country), but actually I've pretty much cleaned up at that grade. Still like repeating them though!

In reply to maisie:


Good call! We'll very likely be camping at Treverven, and I've hardly done anything at St Loy. Also, from there we'll probably revisit Tater-du via the longer, westerly walk-in (avoiding the car parking fees at Lamorna - what is it? - £7 a day and yet no Council-run public toilet. Grrrr!)

In reply to bpmclimb:

American Dream

Stone Boom

Desolation Row

In reply to bpmclimb:

Hi Brian.

Andy and I repeated Just Du It an Andy Grieve VS (think HVS/E1) at Tater Du recently, when we did some of your stuff. I'd recommend it

Similarly Waltzing Matilda as I mentioned above is one of the best HVS/E1s I've done down here.

Have you done the Botallack Head Zawn HSs, there excellent but only the seaward one (The Gaoler?) might be dry.

How about The Lizard too? Did some VS on the Horse recently which was a good place & The Serpent's Tail at Predannack was excellent in a scary loose way.

In reply to The Pylon King:



More rockfall on pitch 1 unfortunately.

In reply to bpmclimb:

Golva...shudder!

In reply to bpmclimb:


If you do get out that way, do have a look at Shark (E1) at Gurnard's. It's a cracking little corner facing Right Angle. Very tidal, and you have to ab in (a hanging belay on the ab rope isn't a bad idea, maybe six feet off the deck). It's a completely forgotten gem.

Martin

In reply to all:

Thanks for all the suggestions - I'll definitely bear them in mind for future trips. This trip turned out to be generally somewhat lower in the grade, due in part to slightly damp rock here and there, but also no doubt to my yellow streak! There did seem to be one or two sandbags in our selection too (Fluke at St Loy, for example).