UKC

Afternoon all,

Going to Glencoe for a week tomorrow, mainly for a walking holiday, but would like to get some climbing in whilst there.

Currently leading up to VS level (soft ones!), but would welcome suggestions of routes in the Vdiff to HS range. Currently on my list is Agag's groove and if clear of snow then Tower Ridge, but any recommendations for other great lines as an all dayer, or nice single pitch venues for an evening climb? We will have a car and full rack/ropes etc.

Ideas welcomed...

In reply to ianlaw:

Jamuary Jigsaw on Buachaille Etive Mor is a superb severe and Quiver Rib on the East Face of Anoach Dubh is one of the best Diffs I've done anywhere

In reply to ianlaw:

Happy half term, see you on the road and probably up there !

We are looking at Aonach Eagach Ridge, Ring of Steel and maybe Tower Ridge or similar.

Easy access cragging would be fun too.

Sarah

In reply to LakesWinter:
I shall buy a guide when up there, but in the meantime am I right in thinking you can link Agag's and January Jigsaw together to then top out on the mountain?



Thanks for your response.

In reply to sarahjk:

Hoping for good weather, I love half term - if not we will be camping out in the Clachaig Inn! Staying at Glencoe Cottages just down the road. If you guys want to join up with our party (2 HS leaders and 2 relative novices) then drop us a message.

In reply to ianlaw:

January Jigsaw and Agag's Groove both start at around the same place. You could easily do both in day but you either need to abseil or downclimb part of Curved Ridge which novices may find quite tricky.

On JJ make sure you traverse far enough left on pitch 3. It's easy to end up on Savage Slit instead.

Both are great routes. Hope the weather gods are kind to you.

In reply to ianlaw:

If you're venturing as far as the Glen, Poll Dubh is an excellent venue for an evening or even a whole day - linking routes from near the car park (Pinnacle Ridge being a great start) to the higher crags is a worthwhile venture. The guide book is Highland Outcrops, or Gary Latter's Scottish Rock South.

Theres some amazing scrambles on the Buchaille and the three sisters worth a look too - North Buttress, Broad Buttress and Creag na tullaich come highly recommended.

Lastly, look at Gars Bheinn over the corran ferry - I think Pinnacle Ridge is the big severe on there and it looks fantastic!

In reply to ianlaw:

On Garbh Beinn I think you mean Great Ridge or Great Ridge Direct?

In reply to ianlaw:
You can start up north face route to the end of that route and then scramble across to January jigsaw and the crow berry ridge to the top. Hic cup and groved arête are both excellent routes that can be combined too with a route of choice to get to the heather ledge. On bidean rain maker is really good as is archer ridge. There is a few good routes around the east face of aonach dubh area and you can link routes on the various teers.

In reply to Fiona Reid:

Garbh Benin is really good I liked the south wall especially. Butter knife was really good I thought.

In reply to Fiona Reid:



Errmm, it's been a long time since I did it but don't you mean traverse right - surely JJ stays to the right of SS for the top two pitches?

To the OP - if you're happy up to easy VS then Butterknife on Garbh Bheinn might be worth a try - it was HS when I did and I didn't think it was a sandbag, and it is very good. In the Glen itself, apart from the stuff already mentioned, there's lot's to go at on the East Face of Aonach Dubh - Weeping Wall Route, Long Crack, Eve's Arete, Arrow Wall, Archer Ridge and more, all of which (from dim and distant memory!) are good quality.

Rick

In reply to Rick Sewards:

Thanks everyone for taking the time to respond - got lots to go on now.

In reply to ianlaw:

Worth keeping the D Gully Buttress/Curved Ridge combo, along with North Buttress up your cuff for those less than perfect days when you can't climb. Good value easy big boots days, much shorter day out than Tower Ridge and snow free.

In reply to ianlaw:

Have a good week,One word of advice,keep a look out for ticks and get a tool for getting them out.Keep safe.

In reply to ianlaw:

If you find yourself on the East face of Aonach Dubh then Fairwell Arete (V.Diff) is worthwhile, especially after something like Quiver Rib.

I strongly agree with what others have said regarding Garbh Bheinn only a few miles away - the rock is amazing, the situations grand and it is often deserted when Glencoe is relatively busy.

In reply to JamesRoddie:


And often dry when Glencoe is smattered with rain.

In reply to Rick Sewards:


Oh probably.. Although from what i remember i went right and then you go back left but didn't get find the big old coach bolt/ spike that is meant to be on pitch 3. Having now checked the guidebook it looks like i went too far left and ended up on the crux pitch of Satan's Slit instead.

I also meant Satan's Slit, the other one is in the Cairngorm's and not Glencoe.

In reply to ianlaw:

If you want a "cragging style" day out, east face of Gearr Aonach is also good.

In reply to ianlaw:

Spartan Slab on the Etive slabs is a great VS and not so hard at the grade. The slabs havee a well deserved rep for huge runouts but this really doesn't apply to spartan slab which is well protected all the way.
Probably go midweek if you don't want to be queuing for it though.

In reply to ianlaw:

If the weather is crap (it will be) then the Aonach Eagach ridge is fun - if its really crap the Kingshouse is better, try not to shit on your tent or fall in the river though, makes for an easier drive south.

In reply to ianlaw:

Agag's Groove. Crypt Route. Clachaig Gully. North Face Route.

In reply to ianlaw:

Quiver Rib and Archer Ridge, then boost up the hill a wee bit for Nirvana Wall, unsung classic of the Coe, if your going well there's a couple of cheeky looking VS's beside it called shibumi and satori, haven't done them but they look good, all within walking distance of the Clachaig, the perfect reward for a days capering in the Coe, enjoy.

In reply to JamesRoddie:

For the first time we found crowds on Great Ridge yesterday- http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2014/05/great-weather-and-great-company-on... 11 folk in all.

In reply to Removed User:


Wise words

In reply to AlH:

hey Al - that was us in the van!
good to meet you all, yup, it was a cracking route, eh?!
(cheers for the heads up re the nasty chimney!)
if any of those pics are of us, it'd be great if you could email them over
ta, tim (with the book, but not the forearms!!!)
(ps did agags groove today, another corker!)