UKC

Planning on making a dash to the Wye valley for the day on Friday, but haven't climbed there before. Any recommendations on decent crags/climbs to head to? Looking at the easier end of the grades as my partner and I are still easing back into the climbing.

In reply to Doms1:

Symonds Yat would be the best bet, although it might be a bit muddy around the crag base in places after the rain. Lots of easy single-pitch stuff. Wyndcliff (left and right)and Shorncliff are both good, but you probably want to be leading confidently at a minimum of HS to get the best out of them, and the latter might still be a bit damp on Friday. Wintours has some great multi-pitch routes, including at easier grades, but again dampness may be an issue, especially early in the day.

In reply to Doms1:

Don't go to symonds yat. Awful crag. Another vote for wyndclif...

In reply to Doms1: Wouldn't recommend Symonds Yat at the moment - it's going to be very muddy and probably a bit wet as more rain's forecast for tomorrow. Wintours should be fine if you're happy leading HS/VS; if you want sport, then both Tintern and the main wall at Ban-y-gor should be dry.

In reply to Doms1:

I know Symonds Yat is not popular with many, but I have rarely found it overrun with climbers. There are a lot of single pitch routes across a range of grades, well described in the guide. Parking is easy and - best of all - a friendly kiosk at the top with very good snacks, cake and drinks.

Oh - and also a great view across the valley.

I agree, however, that the steep descent paths might be rather muddy and slippy after the rain.

In reply to Doms1:
Wintours Leap. Biggest and (probably) best at all grades. Very fast drying.
Wyndcliffe. Steep, impressive. Grades start at brutal Pat Littlejohn VS's
Shorn cliff. Steep, juggy slabs, all grades. Jungle bashing and abseil descents.
Symond Yat. All grades, usually steep, polished, juggy, pretty setting.

Ban y Gor etc are pretty grotty in comparison.

In reply to Doms1:
Cheers for the info. Looks like it's going to be a walk on Dartmoor on Friday rather than climbing given the weather forecast at the moment, Wye Valley sounds good for another weekend.

In reply to FrJ:

True but it also costs! I was glad we had the right change on us when we went as we had not anticipated this.