/ gogarth main cliff abseil approach

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jmills94 - on 29 May 2014
was hoping to do a few of the routes at the far end (scavenger,nightride,hustler) of main cliff and then if time allowed go and do hombre in easter island gully to finish off. read the approach info here http://gogarth.wikifoundry.com/page/The+Main+Cliff but cant for the life of me find the said col or boulder to ab off in order to get to the ledges above the hustler area.

finally with hombre as it finishes up and to the right of the abseil am i right in thinking you then have to repeat the roped scramble in order to retrieve the rope left for the ab to the base of the route.

Thanks for any advise on this, much appreciated :)
bill briggs1 - on 29 May 2014
In reply to jmills94:
This is the ab approach we use for hustler area. From the sacks / changing area in easter island gully , looking out , roped up traverse left across the grass slope and down to large flake boulders , about a rope length . Then 55 / 60 mt static rope ab from bouder to rehang above hustler , then down side wall of hustler to sea ledges.
GrahamD - on 29 May 2014
In reply to jmills94:

The approach to the abseil in Easter Island is steep unpleasant grass but I've never found the need to do it roped.
jmills94 - on 29 May 2014
In reply to bill briggs1:

i think i follow you, so once you have done the ropes traverse to flaey boulders its then 60m down to the start of the sea ledges?
Mark Reeves - on 29 May 2014
In reply to jmills94:

When you walk from North Stack Car Park/Holyhead you head up steeply it then flattens off. There are two 'cols' just left of the path before the main track veers right to north stack. The right hand one is Wen Zawn, the left is Easter Island.

Take the left one and start traversing down and left out of the main gully until you hit a cliff and the block that is in that photo on the wiki. You need 100m to reach the bottom (well maybe 80m?).

Hombre is in a totally different place to the other routes and requires a ascent and descent to get to the Easter Island racking up spot. I also abseil from there as I hate the steep grass death slide to the top of Supercrack. From top of Hombre it is an easy traverse left to the racking up spot in Easter Island
bill briggs1 - on 29 May 2014
In reply to jmills94:

Yes , 60 is ok from the flake boulders , as for roping up for the grass slope its up to you but as you are taklng the climbing ropes with you and its your first time you might feel safer with a rope on .
jmills94 - on 29 May 2014
In reply to Mark Reeves:

mark - im with you on the cols (can picture them in my head) but when you say start traversing down and left till i hit that block am i right in thinking im heading across and above lines such as hombre and swastika until level with mestizo? or am i meant to be staying level with the top of the approach gully and then dropping down to the large ledges directly above the line of hustler and mestizo.


sorry for any annoyance in my lack of understanding but i want to get this right as it seems the best way to see off as any routes as possible in an amazing area! cheers
Ray Sharples - on 29 May 2014
In reply to jmills94:

Did Hombre last Sunday. We abbed on a single 50m rope from tat next to the 'Easter Island' pinnacle (which is obvious once you are a bit down Easter Island gully) to the top of Supercrack. Definitely recommended if the grass is wet!
However there is no tat currently on the block at the top of Supercrack. We left a sling/krab to make sure the climbing ropes would pull, but it means you have to go back down the ab again to get it back! Returning to the first ab point from the top of Hombre is fine.
Only when we got down to sea level and did the traverse did we realise the route was still soaking! Classic line though.
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jmills94 - on 29 May 2014
In reply to Ray Sharples:

this is the problem i imagined with hombre - think i shall take an old nylon sling and a screwgate to leave in situ

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