UKC

Hi, has anyone any info and opinions on the Naranjo de Bulnes South Face routes please? Any shared experiences appreciated. Thanks.

In reply to Valaisan:

I did the direct route, very good and a very nice summit. Bit of loose rock about on the scrambles at the top so helmet recommended. Depending when you go, get up early to avoid the heat and the crowds.

In reply to Valaisan:

what d'y want to know?
you got a route in mind, do you have the guidebook?
I'v got the Spanish one at home, could look a couple of things up if needed.
The normal route on the S face is also the main decent but there are additional abb stations alongside the main belays so you can still climb while others are going down. (you don't really want to as lots of little stones get knocked down)
the hut is fine, very busy (that is to say crowded) you can wild camp just outside if you fancy, there is an outside standpipe/spring for water.

In reply to Valaisan:

We were there off-season (early September) intending to do the normal route without any crowds. It turned out to be a local holiday, so even at 7.45 on a Monday morning we found 14 people in front of us. So we opted for Nani (TD-) instead, and were very glad we did - 11 superb pitches, with a crux pitch about HVS, the rest more like HS.

In reply to Valaisan:

Did the direct - Victor route 20 years ago. Nice n easy, lots of scrambling last few pitches to top out.
Nice location......

In reply to Valaisan:

You are thinking about the south face, but after sleeping under the west face you might find the south face less inspiring. In the way to the south face you will pass under the east face, and you might think that maybe you should have aimed for the route Cepeda (or any other, depending on your abilities).

I have never done any route on the south face, so not much of a help. But I have also heard that Nani is suppose to be good. The normal route is less inspiring, and usually crowded or with people abseiling from it. It is the main abseiling route from the top.

Have fun

In reply to daWalt:


Hi deWalt, thanks for the comments. I'm interested on any more detailed info on the South face routes, either side of Martinez Direct if you are able to perhaps copy and pdf the pages from your book and email? I would be really grateful I looked at your pics of Nranjo on your UKC gallery, really helpful and quite a lot of close up detail. What is the pro like on the South face routes? I suppose that is a key question I have.
Many thanks again, David
P.S. Noticed you'd done Pagoda, I lived on Arran for 4 years and enjoyed many of its climbs. Would be great to go back for some more with someone else who's been there. Keep in touch if you're going that way again, if you like.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Thanks for that Simon. Very interested in Nani as a second option if Martinez is full up! What is the pro like on it please?

In reply to Valaisan:

Thank you to everyone for their comments, much appreciated.

In reply to Valaisan:

as far as gear goes on the S face route; take a few extra slings as you'll find stuff to thread.
Unfortunately, from a load carrying point of view, the cracks tend to be relatively big so a couple of big cams/hexes are worthwhile.
I don't remember placing any gear smaller than a #4.