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Recommend me super classic HVS/E1's in Snowdonia

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 jsmcfarland 07 Jun 2014
Hi there!

So as I know how much everyone loves the "recommend me..." threads I'd thought I would get the low-down on what everyone thinks is worthwhile.

I'm there twice for 4-5 days each in mid-late July and want to get in as many of the classic routes at HVS/E1 as possible. Slate, single pitch, multi-pitch, whatever, I want it all!

 jezb1 07 Jun 2014
In reply to jsmcfarland:

Super Direct on Dinas Mot is a classic: http://www.jbmountainskills.co.uk/news/route-of-the-week-no-1
 DaveHall246 07 Jun 2014
In reply to jsmcfarland:

Can't get much more 'super classic' then Cenotaph Corner. Cemetery Gates is a very close second.
 ark05 07 Jun 2014
if you get good weather, then pretty much anything on cloggy.

Also:
grooves on cyrn las
nexus on dinas mot

outside snowdonia if the hill fog is in:
dream of white horse at gogarth
the plum at tremadog
 Jon Stewart 07 Jun 2014
In reply to jsmcfarland:

A Gogarth recommendation away from the classics in Wen Zawn (and Britomartis) is North West Passage - the top pitch is really superb technical wall climbing in a wonderful exposed position. If you don't visit Gogarth you're really missing out: conditions are often much better than in the Pass and the climbing and setting are superb.
 The Ivanator 07 Jun 2014
In reply to jsmcfarland:
A few Ogwen offerings:
Direct Route HVS on Milestone Buttress
Bochlwyd Eliminate HVS on Bochlwyd Buttress
Direct Start HVS to Tennis Shoe on Idwal Slabs link via rest of Tennis Shoe to Javelin Blade E1, Continuation Crack HVS and walk across to Grey Arete HVS (or Grey Rib VS/Grey Eliminate E1 combo).
Herford's Crack HVS on the Gribben Facet
Get Close HVS and Lot's Groove HVS on Glyder Fach.
In reply to jsmcfarland: I'm surprised it's not already been mentioned but The Groove on Lech Ddu is probably the best multi-pitch mountain E1 in Wales.

 Mark Bannan 08 Jun 2014
In reply to jsmcfarland:

If you like jamming, Spectre and Brant Direct on the Grochan are both great.
In reply to jsmcfarland:

The Grooves. Just the best!
 Red Rover 08 Jun 2014
In reply to jsmcfarland:

Breaking the barrier on Holhead mountain is a good single pitch E1, I've only seconded it but it was great.
 Webster 08 Jun 2014
In reply to jsmcfarland:

If you like slate then the classics are: Fools gold, Looning the tube and Seams the same. there are plenty of good E1's all over the place on slate if its to your taste.

Cenotaph corner is probably the most famous and striking 'line' in the country, and the climbing matches the qulity.
 Doug 08 Jun 2014
In reply to jsmcfarland:

If (big if) its dry, have a look at Black Spring on Dinas Mot (HVS I think)
In reply to jsmcfarland:

Northwest passage, brant direct, scavenger, super direct on the mot, meshach, anything on cloggy, wen zawn and tremadog at that grade is good really.
In reply to jsmcfarland:

White Slab: Cloggy

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