/ Training with one arm

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ianstevens - on 11 Jun 2014
After becoming the first person ever to break an arm falling off a boulder problem (probably) I'm on the hunt for exercises i can do to stay fit whilst in plaster. Anyone got any experience/advice?
shark - on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to ianstevens:
> After becoming the first person ever to break an arm falling off a boulder problem (probably)


I very much doubt that !

See it as a perfect opportunity to train for a one armer. A deeply satisfying life goal if you do it.
Post edited at 10:04
ianstevens - on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to shark:

I was awaiting that response - need to find some right arm heavy routes to go with it!
Serena Lambre on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to ianstevens:
Johnny Dawes is always babbling on about doing both one-armed and no-armed routes when climbing. I'm sure you'll be able to find many videos of him demonstrating these fine arts.

Maybe even get in touch with him and he could give you a lesson. I went to one of his master-classes once and we didn't use our hands once for the entire session. (Not the lead climbing extravaganza I was hoping for!)

Doing easy routes with only one arm will most definitely improve your balance and footwork, as you won't be able to rely on manly brute strength anymore!
Post edited at 10:27
shark - on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to ianstevens:

> I was awaiting that response - need to find some right arm heavy routes to go with it!


Just do it for its own sake ! Deadhanging a first joint edge with (or without!) assistance is another option. Worth doing hangs both crimped and open handed.

ianstevens - on 12 Jun 2014
In reply to Serena Lambre:

Unfortunately, brute strength is not exactly my forte anyway, I'm a man who loves tekkers. Although I do like the idea of pure footwork practice, i was also thinking about fat bastard prevention.
coreybennett - on 30 Jun 2014
In reply to ianstevens:

I usually traverse stuff with one arm, it helps improve center of balance and footwork.
KTC - on 09 Jul 2014
In reply to ianstevens:

I've got a bit of a pull on my left bicep. Nothing hugely horrible, but just painful enough to know it's there. I found climbing at the wall yesterday evening to be a pretty serene experience, I was spending a lot more time concentrating on footwork and trying not to load my arm. I couldn't climb *quite* to my grade, but I was close, and it felt like a route to huge technical improvements for me.
I'm not sure how I'll maintain the non-thuggery when my arm is better, but I'll try.

I'd be tempted to climb routes one-armed if I were you. You'll take a bunch of falls, but I bet your balance and footwork technique improve.

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