UKC

Hi guys,

I'm contemplating building a circuit board in the garage, ideally variable angle so it could be used for different intensity training and by tucked away neatly when not in use.

I've got a vague idea but i'm highly unsure on whether or not it's feasible! The wall behind is breeze block so I was wondering if anyone knows how much force a good anchor in the wall can take pulling virtually perpendicular to the wall?

The plan (alpha...)

The circuit board would either be fixed by heavy duty hinges in the wall/floor corner, or a thick rubber tube to protect the end of the board and a wooden 'guide' would be used to hold it in place.

Bolts in the wall (at about 2m) would hold a chain (?) attached to the circuit board meaning links could be shortened to change the angle with the use of a carabiner for example.

Removable guides would be made to insert while the boards at given angles to stop it moving.

Here's a link to a quick diagram... Excuse my art skills!
http://mightytext.net/zDrTs

Now, it's been a while since i've done any mechanics so i'm a little rusty! But there would be an awful lot of force in the bolts when someone is hanging from the top of the board at a decent angle...

So, is it at all feasible?!

Thanks UKC,

Ed

In reply to Ed Hayter:

i'd check with an engineer, you've the weight of the board, all the holds and yourself.

In reply to Ed Hayter:

All I can confirm is that having a board hanging from chains works as I had one in my parent's garage. The weight of the board when it's very steep stops it from moving up and down and having it fixed at the base some how stops it from moving side to side. I had some fixed mallions at certain points down the chain so I could adjust the angle quickly.

I had the chains looped around the exposed roof joists where the angled roof joists met the horizontal roof joists at the wall.

I'm not sure about having it anchored to the top of the wall itself, that's a lot of leverage as these climbing walls are heavy. I suppose someone has to try it out though, let us know how you get on!

P.S. In retrospect I hardly ever changed the angle of the wall, so in future I'd save the hassle and just have it fixed and 40 degrees ish.

In reply to Ed Hayter:

Looks good

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-climbing-wall-at-home-with-an-adjus...

In reply to cha1n:

Great, thanks for the advice! It's good to hear someone else had used a similar method.

I guess all I need to know now is how much force the wall can take and which anchors are best, maybe i'll have to do some proper testing!

Of course i'll let you know if it goes ahead, i'll keep photo updates.

I can't imagine i'd change the angle too much but having the ability to store flat would be rather handy in our garage.

Ta!

Ed

In reply to jmerrick21:

That's a really handy link, Thanks! It would be interesting to know how their wall is holding up.

Ed

In reply to Ed Hayter:

If it is going to be adjustable, it would be a good idea to build some stops, so if it does come out of the wall, it won't fully collapse on you.

Obviously work out the weight of you and the board and see how that tallies up with what the bolts in the breeze block can hold. I'm sure you're aware but plywood and 2by4s can build up to quite a significant weight very quickly.

In reply to Ed Hayter:
The other option would be a freestanding wall so no drilling into walls is necessary.

I've seen a few like this one on the internet:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/what-does-your-woody-look-like/106606591__...

In reply to cha1n:

Looks good to me, the only problem with the free standing idea is space. I might try and design one that is a little more compact.

Ed

In reply to mattrm:

Probably a wise bet, thanks!

That was the plan yeah, I just can't seem to find any information about how much force these things can hold. Also the dynamics complicate the mechanics a bit, I gave up maths too early..

Ed

In reply to Ed Hayter:

I used climbing expansion blots drilled into the garage wall (which is made of concrete blocks) to fix the chains to. Both woody and house are still standing 3 years later

In reply to Ed Hayter:

you can spread the force on the wall mount by mounting a piece of timber/ metal with 4+ expansion bolts to 4 separit adjacent breeze blocks then anchor the chain to this, thus spreading the load over a greater area.

In reply to Ed Hayter:

If its a garage, its likely to be single skin brickwork. If so you could drill right through and bolt through with a plate on the outside, dead easy and would be super strong. Failing that like someone previous said fix a couple of long pieces of 4x2 with 5 or so expansions on each, the timber will spread the loading.

In reply to Ed Hayter:

A cool way of making it height adjustable is a couple of pieces of static line and a couple of these http://www.rockrun.com/wild-country-ropeman-146?gclid=CN6Y8auT974CFUbkwgod2...

save buying a chain and all the messing about fixing it etc.

Dont forget you will also need a fingerboard if you want to get really strong...
http://crusherholds.co.uk/matrix-climbing-fingerboard

In reply to brices:


That was my thought. 2 hefty timber uprights screwed into the wall and the chains fixed to those.

In reply to Ed Hayter:
Depending exactly how the wall is built, what it's built from and what condition it's in the two main hazards are:

*Pulling the anchors out of their holes (bit of research and maths needed)

*Pulling the wall or top course of blocks down (bit of inspection or a better qualified opinion needed)

Have a look at your other options including anchoring the chains to the roof joists or top-plate instead or using compression struts against the (I'm assuming stronger) opposite wall rather than chain and bolts, it might be the most common solution but it's rarely the simplest or best.

jk

In reply to Ed Hayter:


Where you based?

I've five metre square boards, complete with T Nuts and approx sixty holds, that I am shortly putting up for sale. I can send photos.
Cash on collection.

In reply to Ed Hayter: I put one up about 8yrs ago when my kids were on the way. It's still holding out ŵelll. Chains into wall (breeze block) secured by expansion bolts. It think there are photos on my ukc profile. I agree with one of the earlier posts, I rarely adjust the angle from the steepest, there's only so much easy stuff you can do in 2m.

In reply to Dispater:

That should have said four boards, one of which is approx one metre by 70cm.

In reply to Ed Hayter:

How far from the upper block level would you like to attach? If its close to the top, I agree with others - risky unless you can identify a cast-in ring beam (concrete) which will make it ultra safe. If close to the top then use the wood plate instead. If confined to the blocks drill a hole (SDS) right through and put a metal plate (say 10-20cm) outside - with threaded rod.

I think variable angle is instructional and anything you can do to create variety can help motivation.

In reply to Ed Hayter:
I forgot to say on the safety front. I put 2 upright bits of 2x4 into the wall. Then depending on which angle it is set at I have different length blocks of wood. That way if for any reason the anchor on the chain failed there is a back up. It also makes it so there is no dynamic load on the anchors when I am scrabbling around like a donkey.

Wow, thanks for all the feedback, all taken into account.

The wooden plate idea seems like a solid option at the moment, i've done some more research and it seems like snaptoggles could work better than thrubolts.

Luke - I had a look at your pictures, looks good. Glad to see that bolts can hold! The safety aspect sounds good, I was planning a similar system.

Paul - The ropeman looks like a good idea though it seems like a bit of a waste of cash when I can get chain for a couple of quid and mallions for less than a fiver!

Dispater - I'm based in the south so potentially not useful, but thanks.

Jk - Other options are definitely worth considering, i'm just not much of a handyman! I've no idea whats in the roof or how to find out, it's been plastered over or something?

Lee - probably 4/5 blocks down? The ring beam is a good idea, depends on the height and whether we've got one I suppose! The metal plate would be ideal but the garage is attached to the house, meaning I can't access the back of the wall for a plate. I guess snaptoggles would work in a similar fashion. The other side is breeze then insulation then brick.

Having said all of this, i'm certainly contemplating a free standing solution in the garden! We'll have a think...

Many thanks everyone!

Ed

In reply to Ed Hayter:


And now just to start an argument : I think the forces are the same regardless of whether the climber is high or low on the board, presuming it to be perfectly rigid, and given that they are hanging off by the same distance. But I'm sure someone will put me right

In reply to LeeWood:

Surely the moment around the hinges at the bottom would be greater?!

But again - correct me if i'm wrong

In reply to Ed Hayter:

I did exactly this. After 6 months enjoying planning it in my head, I went for a hinged wall (special huge hinges - internet somewhere), on a short vertical base (which I actually set in shallow foundations), with wires towards the top of the board going to pulleys on bolts through a cross beam, across the top of the shed. Worked brilliantly. Most of the load was actually *pushing* into the wall in front of the board. As if the board was leaning on the wall behind you (as you climb). Felt much more solid than having the board *pulling* on the roof or other wall.

I had to dismantle the wall when I moved, and was gratified (and a bit sad) to see it was in perfect shape.

Oh, I also have a load of holds for sale as a result, if you (or anyone) is interested.

In reply to Ed Hayter:

Assuming anchors from the top of the overhanging climbing board lead back to the wall, then as far as I know you are correct. The position of the climber will change the effective centre of mass of the board, which will change the distance from the pivot/hinges. Net result is that the moment about the hinge will vary with climber position.

In reply to NottsRich:

OK I've got my head round this - thanks for explaining. The proportional force taken by the wall is always the same though ??

In reply to LeeWood:

The bottom of the board will push into the wall, while the top will pull the bolts outwards, the horizontal components will always be equal and opposite, but larger (positive and negative) the higher up the board due to the greater moment.

I think..