UKC

When I was a lad learning my craft in the Lakes it used to be de rigeur to spark a rolly when on belaying duties. Helped concentrate the mind on the task at hand and provided some relief from the inevitable tedium.

I don't smoke these days but would you agree to get on the sharp end of a Malborough Light?

In reply to Removed User:

E cigarettes now i think you will find.

In reply to Removed User:



Absolutely

In reply to Removed User:

When I started out - ee when I were a lad - I seem to recall that lots of 'mountaineers' smoked a pipe.

There was a certain romanticism about the smell of a burning brier wafting across a ridge.

In reply to Goucho:
There was a certain romanticism about the smell of a burning brier wafting across a ridge.

And a certain terror caused by knocking the contents of the bowl down your jacket while on lead?

In reply to Removed User:

I used to climb with a mate who was quite adept at making rollies one handed whilst belaying me. I'd always wait for a puff of smoke before attempting any crux sequences.

In reply to Goucho:


In the 1960s I remember talking to an old climber. He described how one day on Idwal Slabs he watched a pipe smoking climber wearing tricounis, complete with tweed jacket and breeches leading the crux pitch of Tennis Shoes. No protection in those days. The leader stopped, tapped the ash out of his pipe, then clenching it in his teeth set off up the crux, and fell off.

He died.

In reply to Removed User:

I recall a pair climbing Freedom at Craig y Forwen. The second, deciding that the leader had done the hard bit, gave him a few yards of slack and started to roll a cigarette. At this point the leader fell. THe sticht plate jammed when the rope came tight, hoiking the second into the air. Given the nature of the large overhang on the route, both parties ended up suspended over the blackthorn bushes, a few feet apart but broadly level, with the second still holding his half-made cigarette. There was a frank exchange of views and the second began to lower the leader. Friction being as it is, it was the second who begain to descend into the thorns, He then attempted a little jig to get the leader to descend into the thorns first. It didn't end very well for either party - with both bleeding and one party feeling greatly aggrieved and the other thinking that the accusations of blame were disproportionate.

In reply to nniff:

I would love to have seen that!

In reply to Removed User:

Going for Suicide Wall at Bosigran one Easter, we got to the top of the first pitch and then had to sit waiting for a couple of muppets screwing up the second. My mate happily rolled and smoked while I froze. Eventually he had to lower me off and cooly down climbed striping the gear. Boy, was I glad he was there. His name - Jules Cartwright.

In reply to nniff:

Good tale!

In reply to Removed User:


Not if my ropes were being used. Or if it were their ropes but having a fag on made the belaying shit. Or I had to share a car afterwards and they thought it was ok to smoke in the car if you opened the window a bit .. …

In reply to Goucho:

When I started out - ee when I were a lad - I seem to recall that lots of 'mountaineers' smoked a pipe.

My father has got a picture of himself on 'Pine Tree' in South Wales that was taken by the Western Mail, rope tied around waist and pipe in mouth.
It's a cracking picture and if I get a chance, I'll scan it and put it in the Historical section in the Photos Gallery.
(He partnered Barry Powell on the First Ascent, but I don't think this is of that).

In reply to cwarby:

Good man Jules. RIP.