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Hi,
I am looking for recommendations of routes similar in style to Heaven Crack (Stanage), namely easy laybacking off big positive holds with good protection. Here's the ones I have done:
Heaven Crack, Stanage
R Unconquerable, Stanage
L Unconquerable, Stanage
Goliath Groove, Stanage
Pedestal Crack, Froggatt
Maupassant, Curbar
Organ Grinder, Shorn Cliff
Suncrush, Wyndcliffe
Britomartis, Gogarth
Aladdinsane, Trowbarrow
Anvil Chorus, Bosigran
Spook, Swanage
Cupid's Bow, St Govan's
Finale, Shepherd's Crag
Merlin Direct, Tremadog
I thought they all were great and I would like more of the same. So if you know of the good laybacks, please share them here.
PS. I am not including Altar Crack to this list, as it's too hard.
I am looking for recommendations of routes similar in style to Heaven Crack (Stanage), namely easy laybacking off big positive holds with good protection. Here's the ones I have done:
Heaven Crack, Stanage
R Unconquerable, Stanage
L Unconquerable, Stanage
Goliath Groove, Stanage
Pedestal Crack, Froggatt
Maupassant, Curbar
Organ Grinder, Shorn Cliff
Suncrush, Wyndcliffe
Britomartis, Gogarth
Aladdinsane, Trowbarrow
Anvil Chorus, Bosigran
Spook, Swanage
Cupid's Bow, St Govan's
Finale, Shepherd's Crag
Merlin Direct, Tremadog
I thought they all were great and I would like more of the same. So if you know of the good laybacks, please share them here.
PS. I am not including Altar Crack to this list, as it's too hard.
In reply to Kirill:
Espolon Limaban, Sierra de Toix, Costa Blanca. Heavenly.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=20569
Espolon Limaban, Sierra de Toix, Costa Blanca. Heavenly.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=20569
In reply to Kirill:
Gargoyle Flake (Bamford)?
The layback section is very short, but it's a good 'un. And then you can pose for the photo.
Gargoyle Flake (Bamford)?
The layback section is very short, but it's a good 'un. And then you can pose for the photo.
In reply to craggyjim:
That's jamming! Layback it and you have missed the point (or, perhaps, struggle).
> Crewcut at Millstone.
That's jamming! Layback it and you have missed the point (or, perhaps, struggle).
In reply to Kirill:
A few more easier ones on Peak grit:
http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/laybacks_topten.html
A few more easier ones on Peak grit:
http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/laybacks_topten.html
In reply to Kirill:
Crewcut is very nice.
Try Whitehall at Millstone (HVS 5b). A bit under rated possibly because of such quality either side but it has good lackbacking on thin, but positive holds.
Crewcut is very nice.
Try Whitehall at Millstone (HVS 5b). A bit under rated possibly because of such quality either side but it has good lackbacking on thin, but positive holds.
In reply to Kirill:
Top pitch of Sword of Damocles on Bowfell
F-route Gimmer
Bulls Crack Heptonstall
Great North Road Millstone
Top pitch of Sword of Damocles on Bowfell
F-route Gimmer
Bulls Crack Heptonstall
Great North Road Millstone
In reply to TobyA:
How big are your hands?!
It's a classic offwidth (in the true sense of the word) thrash
> That's jamming! Layback it and you have missed the point (or, perhaps, struggle).
How big are your hands?!
It's a classic offwidth (in the true sense of the word) thrash
In reply to 999thAndy:
The layback section on that is surely only about 3m in 30m, plus it's easier to jam.
> Great North Road Millstone
The layback section on that is surely only about 3m in 30m, plus it's easier to jam.
In reply to Kirill:
Your going to find a lot of these hard if you choose to layback them !
Close(ish) to home you could try God at Willersley or Tuts Anomolous at Wildcat.
On grit Brooks Layback and Beeches Layback, or Layback Crack at Gardoms
Further afield, Paragon at Bosigran
There are also a few layback test pieces on Southern Sandstone (doable from Cambridge on a Wednesday evening)
Your going to find a lot of these hard if you choose to layback them !
Close(ish) to home you could try God at Willersley or Tuts Anomolous at Wildcat.
On grit Brooks Layback and Beeches Layback, or Layback Crack at Gardoms
Further afield, Paragon at Bosigran
There are also a few layback test pieces on Southern Sandstone (doable from Cambridge on a Wednesday evening)
In reply to Kirill:
For more short grit routes, Right Fin and the top half of Lieback, both at Burbage North.
For more short grit routes, Right Fin and the top half of Lieback, both at Burbage North.
In reply to Fredt:
Yes, the OP. But no one's mentioned David, Burbage N yet. Not the most safe but you can certainly see what you're getting from the floor.
> Has anyone mentioned Right Unconquerable?
Yes, the OP. But no one's mentioned David, Burbage N yet. Not the most safe but you can certainly see what you're getting from the floor.
In reply to victim of mathematics:
Not big enough for crewcut, but if you stack them, chicken wing and squeeze your knees in, that's still jamming!
Personally I find layback generally terrifying; there is no form of climbing guaranteed to make you end up, rapidly, miles above your last runner; pumped and terrified that you can't see into the crack to work out what you can stuff in for the next runner. Jamming is generally preferable!
> How big are your hands?!
Not big enough for crewcut, but if you stack them, chicken wing and squeeze your knees in, that's still jamming!
Personally I find layback generally terrifying; there is no form of climbing guaranteed to make you end up, rapidly, miles above your last runner; pumped and terrified that you can't see into the crack to work out what you can stuff in for the next runner. Jamming is generally preferable!
In reply to Kirill:
Once you've decided you're proficient at it, go on holiday to Norway for some 'proper' laybacks in granite corners. This http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=204355 is about five 50 mtr pitches of laybacking. (Me on the same route, looking up http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Is2iS112HrI/UiNC8BGgZ5I/AAAAAAAAGis/eptsCMuRmh8/s... although it looks steeper there than it is!)
Once you've decided you're proficient at it, go on holiday to Norway for some 'proper' laybacks in granite corners. This http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=204355 is about five 50 mtr pitches of laybacking. (Me on the same route, looking up http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Is2iS112HrI/UiNC8BGgZ5I/AAAAAAAAGis/eptsCMuRmh8/s... although it looks steeper there than it is!)
In reply to victim of mathematics:
Never mind the length, feel the quality! (and I'm sure I lay backed more than 3m of it)
Never mind the length, feel the quality! (and I'm sure I lay backed more than 3m of it)
In reply to All:
Great suggestions keep them coming!
Lorriane - Looks nice.
Britomartis - admittedly I have a vague memory of it, but I thought the main part was lyback, was it not?
Espolon Limaban - Looks Amazing!
Gargoyle Flake - I have done it but somehow don't remember the layback. I must have been too traumatised by the lack of protection at that point.
Crew Cut - looks good!
Answer Crack - looks great, it even says it's the answer to Heaven Crack, that's pretty much exactly what I am after.
Sword of Damocles was on my list anyway
F-route - noted
Bull's Crack - noted
Great N Road - I have done it, but I wouldn't class it as the layback climb. There's the whole variety of moves on it. Great route!
God and Tut's Anomalous - Both sound great!
Paragon - It doesn't fit with the rest on the basis of it being too hard
Altar Crack - also too hard, as mentioned in the OP, dismissing for that reason.
T-rex - noted as a possibility for the future, but may be too high a grade for me.
Bottom pitch of Valkyrie would probably be very hard as a pure layback, very easy to jam though.
I will look through the rest later, keep them coming! Thanks!
Great suggestions keep them coming!
Lorriane - Looks nice.
Britomartis - admittedly I have a vague memory of it, but I thought the main part was lyback, was it not?
Espolon Limaban - Looks Amazing!
Gargoyle Flake - I have done it but somehow don't remember the layback. I must have been too traumatised by the lack of protection at that point.
Crew Cut - looks good!
Answer Crack - looks great, it even says it's the answer to Heaven Crack, that's pretty much exactly what I am after.
Sword of Damocles was on my list anyway
F-route - noted
Bull's Crack - noted
Great N Road - I have done it, but I wouldn't class it as the layback climb. There's the whole variety of moves on it. Great route!
God and Tut's Anomalous - Both sound great!
Paragon - It doesn't fit with the rest on the basis of it being too hard
Altar Crack - also too hard, as mentioned in the OP, dismissing for that reason.
T-rex - noted as a possibility for the future, but may be too high a grade for me.
Bottom pitch of Valkyrie would probably be very hard as a pure layback, very easy to jam though.
I will look through the rest later, keep them coming! Thanks!
In reply to Kirill:
Sword of Damocles on my list too - maybe need to try and sort a trip to the Lakes at some point.
One more for grit - Excalibur
Sword of Damocles on my list too - maybe need to try and sort a trip to the Lakes at some point.
One more for grit - Excalibur
In reply to Kirill:
Britomartis was long ago for me too, and a vague memory too! But I'm almost certain I did no laybacking. I just remember pulling up on loads of flakes on a steepish wall. Great route, happy days.
> Britomartis - admittedly I have a vague memory of it, but I thought the main part was lyback, was it not?
Britomartis was long ago for me too, and a vague memory too! But I'm almost certain I did no laybacking. I just remember pulling up on loads of flakes on a steepish wall. Great route, happy days.
In reply to Cake:
+1
one of the most short lived but increadibly awesome routes going.
I absolutely love it!
> Yes, the OP. But no one's mentioned David, Burbage N yet. Not the most safe but you can certainly see what you're getting from the floor.
+1
one of the most short lived but increadibly awesome routes going.
I absolutely love it!
In reply to Kirill:
If you piled all those mentioned so far on top of one another you would get Diedre at Squamish
If you piled all those mentioned so far on top of one another you would get Diedre at Squamish
In reply to GrahamD:
Re: Trip to the Lakes - Definitely!
I have done Excalibur, quite recently actually. Pretty good! Tricky start.
Re: Trip to the Lakes - Definitely!
I have done Excalibur, quite recently actually. Pretty good! Tricky start.
In reply to nicmac:
Suicide wall is my favorite grit route! But I haven't included it because even though it has layback moves they are quite incidental in my opinion. Not the main feature of the route.
And yes, Five finger is on the list for the future
Suicide wall is my favorite grit route! But I haven't included it because even though it has layback moves they are quite incidental in my opinion. Not the main feature of the route.
And yes, Five finger is on the list for the future
In reply to Kirill:
A lot of these don't really count because they just have one or two layback moves. Isn't F Route mostly bridging and jamming until quite near the top?
Crew Cut, OK, but not very long. Lorraine, lots of styles, mostly jamming. Great North Road, about 3 layback moves at crux. Bottom of Valkyrie, jamming/ laying off offwidth jams.
Curving Crack 1st pitch is better than any of these and fits the OP's request.
The laybacking on Long Layback at Harrison's is discontinuous, but good/interesting. But better by a long way, in fact better than just about anything mentioned so far is Steps Crack at High Rocks. Really pure.
A lot of these don't really count because they just have one or two layback moves. Isn't F Route mostly bridging and jamming until quite near the top?
Crew Cut, OK, but not very long. Lorraine, lots of styles, mostly jamming. Great North Road, about 3 layback moves at crux. Bottom of Valkyrie, jamming/ laying off offwidth jams.
Curving Crack 1st pitch is better than any of these and fits the OP's request.
The laybacking on Long Layback at Harrison's is discontinuous, but good/interesting. But better by a long way, in fact better than just about anything mentioned so far is Steps Crack at High Rocks. Really pure.
In reply to Kirill:
I don't layback any of these routes, except for one move on Maupassant and a bit of Right Unconc ( but that's on jams so does not really count)
Not climbed at Wyncliffe or Swanage. Laybacking is my weakest discipline but after 45 years of avoiding it, I don't intend to start now
> Heaven Crack, Stanage
> R Unconquerable, Stanage
> L Unconquerable, Stanage
> Goliath Groove, Stanage
> Pedestal Crack, Froggatt
> Maupassant, Curbar
> Organ Grinder, Shorn Cliff
> Suncrush, Wyndcliffe
> Britomartis, Gogarth
> Aladdinsane, Trowbarrow
> Anvil Chorus, Bosigran
> Spook, Swanage
> Cupid's Bow, St Govan's
> Finale, Shepherd's Crag
> Merlin Direct, Tremadog
> I thought they all were great and I would like more of the same. So if you know of the good laybacks, please share them here.
> PS. I am not including Altar Crack to this list, as it's too hard.
I don't layback any of these routes, except for one move on Maupassant and a bit of Right Unconc ( but that's on jams so does not really count)
Not climbed at Wyncliffe or Swanage. Laybacking is my weakest discipline but after 45 years of avoiding it, I don't intend to start now
In reply to Kirill:
What about the Shreek of Baghdad at Farleton (in Lancashire for those the wrong side of the county border)? Twenty feet of shiny limestone at just VS 4c. Utterly memorable, even though it is 25 years since I did it !
Do you want to do 'classic' routes, or memorable routes ?
What about the Shreek of Baghdad at Farleton (in Lancashire for those the wrong side of the county border)? Twenty feet of shiny limestone at just VS 4c. Utterly memorable, even though it is 25 years since I did it !
Do you want to do 'classic' routes, or memorable routes ?
In reply to birdie num num:
Yes. Did this a couple of weeks back. Beautiful line with a pretty strenuous layback section, which I understand the locals choose to jam.
Led Right Hand Crack at Brigham today. That has a really nice layback crux in the middle section.
Yes. Did this a couple of weeks back. Beautiful line with a pretty strenuous layback section, which I understand the locals choose to jam.
Led Right Hand Crack at Brigham today. That has a really nice layback crux in the middle section.
In reply to Kirill:
Long Layback Crack - Simonside -- it was virtually a solo back in the days before big cams and #11 Hexes! It is possible to jam if you've got oversized hands and feet
Long Layback Crack - Simonside -- it was virtually a solo back in the days before big cams and #11 Hexes! It is possible to jam if you've got oversized hands and feet
In reply to Kirill:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=19058
Not sure what the gears like in that rock though but a famous layback
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=19058
Not sure what the gears like in that rock though but a famous layback
In reply to Kirill:
Green crack at Stoney Middleton- You can probably jam this one but I was practicing laybacks at the time.
Harding Slot pitch of Spectre on Clogwyn Y Grochan- A short laybacking section but it simplifies the whole pitch down to 2 short boulder problems on top of each other.
Green crack at Stoney Middleton- You can probably jam this one but I was practicing laybacks at the time.
Harding Slot pitch of Spectre on Clogwyn Y Grochan- A short laybacking section but it simplifies the whole pitch down to 2 short boulder problems on top of each other.
In reply to Kirill:
Holy, Holy, Holy in Dali's hole, Dinorwic. Most of it is a fingertip layback if I remember rightly?
Holy, Holy, Holy in Dali's hole, Dinorwic. Most of it is a fingertip layback if I remember rightly?
In reply to Kirill:
Amen Corner on Gimmer, although I wouldn't call that viscious little crack "Heavenly".....
And "Ejector" at Harrisons which has a habit of living up to it's name when you try to solo it.....
Amen Corner on Gimmer, although I wouldn't call that viscious little crack "Heavenly".....
And "Ejector" at Harrisons which has a habit of living up to it's name when you try to solo it.....
Post edited at 08:50
In reply to Kirill:
Consomme at the Cuttings, Portland. On the West side Pixie and the Milford Powerhouse and The Man Who Never Found Himself also fit the bill.
Consomme at the Cuttings, Portland. On the West side Pixie and the Milford Powerhouse and The Man Who Never Found Himself also fit the bill.
In reply to John Stainforth:
Crack of Doom perhaps?
> Overhanging Groove? I think you must have meant another route.
Crack of Doom perhaps?
In reply to Kirill:
A few images of those Portland routes I mentioned:
Consomme: "The long, thin layback flake is an outstanding line". © ROCKFAX
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=170034
Pixie and the Milford Powerhouse: "The flake-crack starting up Poop Scoop". © ROCKFAX
not quite as pure a layback, but great line with some powerful layback moves on juggy holds.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=73144
The Man Who Never Found Himself: "An enjoyable climb. Ascend the steep lower wall and bulge to the base of the corner. Follow the corner to the top". © ROCKFAX
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=120705
A few images of those Portland routes I mentioned:
Consomme: "The long, thin layback flake is an outstanding line". © ROCKFAX
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=170034
Pixie and the Milford Powerhouse: "The flake-crack starting up Poop Scoop". © ROCKFAX
not quite as pure a layback, but great line with some powerful layback moves on juggy holds.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=73144
The Man Who Never Found Himself: "An enjoyable climb. Ascend the steep lower wall and bulge to the base of the corner. Follow the corner to the top". © ROCKFAX
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=120705
In reply to Kirill:
And continuing the Dorset Sport Theme try Jumping the Gun at Hedbury (Swanage):
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=136377
And continuing the Dorset Sport Theme try Jumping the Gun at Hedbury (Swanage):
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=136377
In reply to Kirill:
Great Harry lawrencefeild VS 4c 3*
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10817
Great Harry lawrencefeild VS 4c 3*
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10817
In reply to Bulls Crack:
Not my words, they are quoted from Rockfax.
However 12m or so of laybacking after the initial wall is more than quite a few other suggestions on this thread and accounts for over 50% of the whole route. In terms of UK sections of pure layback it probably does qualify as long.
Not my words, they are quoted from Rockfax.
However 12m or so of laybacking after the initial wall is more than quite a few other suggestions on this thread and accounts for over 50% of the whole route. In terms of UK sections of pure layback it probably does qualify as long.
In reply to Postmanpat:
That's a jamming problem too.
In my case only 40 years of avoiding laybacks. But Harrison's forced me to learn jamming.
> Long Layback. Harrison's.
That's a jamming problem too.
In my case only 40 years of avoiding laybacks. But Harrison's forced me to learn jamming.
Post edited at 21:30
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