UKC

"A nice crag but the routes could do with a good clean up"

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 The Pylon King 25 Jun 2014

For anyone putting comments like this in the crag database:

Clean it up then you moron or are you directing your message to the mythical magical crag cleaning faeries who clean the routes up at night when you are in bed?
 Simon Caldwell 25 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

Fair enough if they're local, but if on a one-off visit it's good to climb rather than clean
 TobyA 25 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

It's probably just a reminded for people to not forget to bring their wire brush with them - which is exactly what I did when out bouldering earlier this evening!

 Billhook 25 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

Don't forget the duster and hoover then!!
 aln 25 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

> Clean it up then you moron

Bit harsh. Tired and emotional from guidebook work? There's probably an element of entitlement but probably mostly comments from one off visitors letting others know what to expect.

mythical magical crag cleaning faeries

Nice use of faeries as opposed to fairy.

In reply to aln:



> Nice use of faeries as opposed to fairy.

Glad you noticed that little detail
 Marmoteer 25 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King and aln:

I had to go and look "faeries" up...it would have passed me by completely as a spelling mistake otherwise!

A simple change in letters adds a little twist to the meaning, I like it!
 Bob 26 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

Completely with you on this one: I've often suggested on here that people take a brush with them when climbing on mountain crags and clean a little as you go. Even if it's only a hold or two per ascent then things are going to get (or keep) clean for the next party.

I suppose it's just the selfish, got to have everything given to me on a plate, my time is precious attitude of so many these days.
 ablackett 26 Jun 2014
In reply to Bob:

> Completely with you on this one: I've often suggested on here that people take a brush with them when climbing on mountain crags and clean a little as you go.

Is this a joke? If so I don't get it. Is this serious? If so, why the F would you do that?

Brush a few holds each time you climb on a mountain crag! It's the bloody mountains, not the dining table.

I always understood crag cleaning to mean removing vegetation/trees etc from lowland crags.
In reply to Bob:
> (In reply to The Pylon King)
> I suppose it's just the selfish, got to have everything given to me on a plate, my time is precious attitude of so many these days.

- Blimey! that's quite some extrapolation there from what appears to me to be a fairly innocuous and potentially helpful comment to a rather damning assessment of character. At least no mention of Hitler/Nazism (yet!).
 jimjimjim 26 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

Another moaning post about crag cleaning. If you want to clean...clean, stop being martyrs. I just climb.....sorry.
In reply to jimjimjim:

I'm not a martyr.
 TobyA 26 Jun 2014
In reply to ablackett:

> I always understood crag cleaning to mean removing vegetation/trees etc from lowland crags.

Why just "lowland crags"? That seems very odd. Lots of mountain routes have seen extensive cleaning I understand - the harder (and hence smaller the holds) the more important it tends to be.
 steveriley 26 Jun 2014
I brushed a load of chalk off yesterday mainly because it just looks dumb. Stupid great big tick marks and chalked footholds that aren't actually that hard to spot. Grumble grumble mumble

 1poundSOCKS 26 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

Haven't you ever been to a crag and thought that, but not had the time or means to do it?
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Yes but i dont put comments in the database moaning about it being dirty!!
 TobyA 26 Jun 2014
In reply to SteveRi:

That's a different type of crag cleaning, but just as necessary! Like picking up finger tape or rope end tapes which is undeniably climbers leaving litter. I guess there are some crags where there is a happy medium of enough climbers climbing to keep the holds clean and cracks clear, but not enough for their to be perma-donkey ticks, massive chalky marks permanently on holds under overhangs and litter on the floor.
 The New NickB 26 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:
I read the comment a little more generously, I don't assume they haven't done some cleaning. More a "nice crag, but be prepared to do a little cleaning". But then I'm a nice person.
Post edited at 09:48
In reply to The New NickB:

I agree some have that intention but i have seen some that sound much more like they are directing the statement towards some mythical crag cleaner. A bit like " oh i dont like the litter all over the street but i will let somebody else pick it all up".
 TobyA 26 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

It doesn't have to be a moan though does it? You might do a well known route and find it surprisingly dirty, and then just warn others. They can brush it if they want, or just be prepared to need to nutkey dirt out of cracks etc to get good placements. And it can serve as a reminder to others that taking a brush with them if they visit a certain crag or boulder is a sensible idea.
In reply to TobyA:

Yes, i agree totally, but i have definitely seen some comments that sound much more like they are directing the statement towards some mythical crag cleaner. A bit like " oh i dont like the litter all over the street but i will let somebody else pick it all up".
 1poundSOCKS 26 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

But keeping it to yourself does nobody any good, letting people know might actually help.
 steveriley 26 Jun 2014
In reply to TobyA:

Well yeah but, no but. I don't really distinguish between the donkey ticks, the moss and general crud. The venue I'm thinking of I reckon climbers have the moral high ground over the great unwashed, who occasionally leave cans and general cruft behind. We pack that out now and then.
 goi.ashmore 26 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

It is usually disappointing when someone just states the routes are dirty. It would be much nicer if people posted that they'd just cleaned something up as a contribution.

I know I am in a minority here as many locals in South Wales have switched off their log books so that people outside the area can't see what's been cleaned and just free-load in.
 Offwidth 26 Jun 2014
In reply to goi.ashmore:

That's just dumb though. If a route needed cleaning it will likely do so again, hence encouraging traffic on such routes, even from freeloaders, is a good idea. I clean because the route deserves it and more people can enjoy that experience, not for any medals. My cragging rucksack nearly always has a patio tool, bristle brush and secateurs and sometimes a light saw and wire brush.
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

> But keeping it to yourself does nobody any good, letting people know might actually help.

I bet it doesnt.
 d_b 26 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

My view is that enough crags are in SSSIs and national parks that I am a bit wary of giving more than a very minor cleanup most of the time. I certainly don't go in for gardening unless absolutely necessary.

Anyway, turning up at a crag and finding that you have to excavate all the gear placements while trying to balance on half an inch of moss and gravel adds to the fun
 Noelle 26 Jun 2014
In reply to davidbeynon:

Completely agree with the first point: gardening in the wrong place could damage a delicate ecosystem, or worse, fork off a landowner and spoil access agreements. I'd always try to see what the deal was with SSSIs/ownership before packing a trowel. It might also be better to involve a local climbing club and attack in larger numbers if an entire area is losing the battle to nature.

The degree of 'fun' provided by excavating gear placements is dependent on the amount of excavating you actually have to do. Cranking precariously on slippery grass and thorny things in rock shoes isn't my idea of a great time.
 d_b 26 Jun 2014
In reply to Noelle:

You will want to stay away from Craig Cau then
 Enty 26 Jun 2014
In reply to ablackett:

> Is this a joke? If so I don't get it. Is this serious? If so, why the F would you do that?

> Brush a few holds each time you climb on a mountain crag! It's the bloody mountains, not the dining table.

> I always understood crag cleaning to mean removing vegetation/trees etc from lowland crags.

Not a joke at all. A few years ago there was a bit of a trad renaissance in the Lakes and many classic Extremes which hadn't been done for a few years and were looking a bit green and mossy got cleaned.
By locals and some of my mates from Burnley taking brushes with them.
Is it that hard to understand?


E

PS Well said Bob.
 Enty 26 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

> Yes, i agree totally, but i have definitely seen some comments that sound much more like they are directing the statement towards some mythical crag cleaner. A bit like " oh i dont like the litter all over the street but i will let somebody else pick it all up".

I know what you mean. You know what you mean. But you won't win. Some people will argue in an empty room mate.

E
 FreshSlate 27 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

> Yes but i dont put comments in the database moaning about it being dirty!!

So the difference was that someone posted a potentially helpful comment and you generally don't?

Yeah f*cking morons! Hate those people.
 Michael Gordon 27 Jun 2014
In reply to goi.ashmore:

>
> I know I am in a minority here as many locals in South Wales have switched off their log books so that people outside the area can't see what's been cleaned and just free-load in.

That's really weird! If you want a route to be kept clean, the best way is to publicise the fact that it has been cleaned.
In reply to FreshSlate:



Is "Hate those people" an instruction?
 Offwidth 27 Jun 2014
In reply to FreshSlate:
Regular crag cleaners are often at least a little odd. Im greatful to them, be they anywhere from ranters to shy secretive types. I like the UKB idea of a longstanding 'recently cleaned' thread as traffic does keep routes clean and some climbers dont have the luxury of cleaning time due to work family or whatever.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9392.0.html
Post edited at 08:30
 gethin_allen 27 Jun 2014
In reply to goi.ashmore:

I just recently cleared a load of blambles from around the base of a few of your routes at castle upon alun. I cleared some ferns from a few routes too and a load of brambles from the not very obvious walk in too. I didn't get much climbing done as the routes are mostly at the top end of what I climb or beyond and it was steaming hot and humid so it was more of an investigation than a climbing session.
 FreshSlate 27 Jun 2014
In reply to Offwidth:

> Regular crag cleaners are often at least a little odd. Im greatful to them, be they anywhere from ranters to shy secretive types. I like the UKB idea of a longstanding 'recently cleaned' thread as traffic does keep routes clean and some climbers dont have the luxury of cleaning time due to work family or whatever.


That actually sounds a great idea! We should have a recently cleaned thread, a more positive way of dealing with things than slating people for describing the condition of a route (the bar-stewards).
 FreshSlate 27 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

> Is "Hate those people" an instruction?

You're there already .
In reply to FreshSlate:

> You're there already .

Totally lost me there.
 Tom Last 27 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

I've cleaned a whole fekking forest, would be great if somebody even climbed on some of the stuff I've put up - them giving it a brush is the stuff of dreams!
 leland stamper 29 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

As I may well be the moron in discussion, by suggesting the new Frenchay site is dirty and loose despite "the fantastic cleaning job being done" I'm being an honest moron and I did do some cleaning while I was there not to mention Cleaning other crags over the last year. Clearly faeries can also be morons. Looking forward to the guidebook.
In reply to leland stamper:

No, not you leland.
 The Ivanator 29 Jun 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

I reckon a fair few of the crags in the new guide would be better described by:
"A bramble infested, mossy obscurity, could do with a dose of napalm"

In reply to The Ivanator:

> I reckon a fair few of the crags in the new guide would be better described by:

> "A bramble infested, mossy obscurity, could do with a dose of napalm"

>

Wheres that then?
In reply to The Ivanator:

That's quality that is!
 Kemics 30 Jun 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Lol that's definitely some esoteric "climbing"

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