UKC

cenotaph corner

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 Antwhitehead 28 Jun 2014

Hi,

Going with a friend to wales for a couple of days and am really keen to climb Cenotaph Corner. Does anyone have any tips/advice?
Post edited at 22:38
 BigHairyIan 28 Jun 2014
In reply to Antwhitehead:

Yeah, bridge across the corner. And don't get repelled by the 'Wally Stopper' at about 30ft. Ha. I did it 25 years ago, and I got stopped there! My mate bridged most of the way and declared that he'd done harder HVSs! Oh, I seconded it, but with my tail between my legs!
 BrainoverBrawn 29 Jun 2014
In reply to Antwhitehead:

Use your head, don't miss gear and bridge well with good feet seeing the whole move before committing blindly.. jim
 Jonny2vests 29 Jun 2014
In reply to Antwhitehead:

Don't get intimidated, it's really not all that hard for an E1. If you get pumped, you're definitely doing something wrong, there are a million rests.

If it goes really well, get on Left Wall for a victory lap.
In reply to Antwhitehead:

The finishing jug is massive
 Goucho 29 Jun 2014
In reply to Antwhitehead:

> Hi,

> Going with a friend to wales for a couple of days and am really keen to climb Cenotaph Corner. Does anyone have any tips/advice?

Just remember it's VS apart from 3 moves, and you can get a runner every 6 inches - but you don't need too

Enjoy it, it's a great route, and a slice of history.
 Bulls Crack 29 Jun 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

> Don't get intimidated, it's really not all that hard for an E1.

Funny that it near the top of the graded list?! Harder than plenty of other E1's imo but steady with a definite crux.
 Mark Kemball 29 Jun 2014
In reply to Antwhitehead:

Expectations? I was very disappointed the first time I climbed it - I was expecting this superb climb and thought it fairly ordinary. Fast forward, years later I went back to reclimb it with low expectations, and found it absolutely superb!

Also, ration your runners, otherwise you will run out!
 Jim Nevill 29 Jun 2014
In reply to Antwhitehead:

there's a lot of edging, so don't (like I did) wear 'soft' rock shoes, or your calves will go before your arms. A bit polished but great climbing, and totally safe.
 ark05 29 Jun 2014
I dont think it's easy in the grade... its about right.
 Sean Kelly 29 Jun 2014
In reply to Antwhitehead:

Do Cloggy Corner first, it's only HVS, then Cenotaph will seem like a breeze!
 Gripped 29 Jun 2014
In reply to Antwhitehead:

Bring a sling for the pudding stone!
 Jonny2vests 30 Jun 2014
In reply to Sean Kelly:

> Do Cloggy Corner first, it's only HVS, then Cenotaph will seem like a breeze!

Yes!
 Jonny2vests 30 Jun 2014
In reply to Bulls Crack:

> Funny that it near the top of the graded list?! Harder than plenty of other E1's imo but steady with a definite crux.

So do you think it's tough for E1 or not?
 PaulTanton 30 Jun 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

Quite easy I thouht. Nice warm up. Step your right foot high at the top and it's done
 Ally Smith 30 Jun 2014
In reply to Antwhitehead:

It's a better route with one aid point at the crux...
 Coel Hellier 30 Jun 2014
In reply to PaulTanton:

> Quite easy I thouht. Nice warm up.

Stiff for E1 I thought! The main problem is psychological. It lulls you with 100-ft of VS/HVS climbing with bomber, chunky gear -- then, just when you're looking forward to the finishing jugs, and with the full weight of two ropes on you, it leaps from 4c to 5c climbing with only a dodgy old peg and fiddly small wires.
 Scott Quinn 30 Jun 2014
In reply to Antwhitehead:

Don't hold your hammer with your teeth, you'll end up dropping it.
 Rich Guest 30 Jun 2014
In reply to Antwhitehead:

> Hi,

> Going with a friend to wales for a couple of days and am really keen to climb Cenotaph Corner. Does anyone have any tips/advice?

Yes.... Dont read this thread!!
 Jonny2vests 30 Jun 2014
In reply to Cragrat Rich:

Rich! You're alive!
 Bulls Crack 30 Jun 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

> So do you think it's tough for E1 or not?

Medium! There's easier E1s's on the Cromlech and only 2/176 voters thinks its easy fro E1!
 Jonny2vests 30 Jun 2014
In reply to Bulls Crack:

> Medium! There's easier E1s's on the Cromlech and only 2/176 voters thinks its easy fro E1!

When did I say it was easy?
 Bulls Crack 30 Jun 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

easy..'not all that hard'.....?
 Goucho 30 Jun 2014
In reply to Bulls Crack:

> easy..'not all that hard'.....?

Well apart from one awkward 5a/b move low down, it's straightforward VS climbing with bomber gear, and a rest on every move for 100' of it's 120' length.

The reason it gets E1, is because of the 5c move getting out of the niche. If it wasn't for that, it would probably get HVS.

So J2V maybe wasn't that inaccurate with his comment?

Having said that, it might be a bit more polished since I last did it in 74'

 Bulls Crack 30 Jun 2014
In reply to Goucho:

As I said: 2/176!
 Postmanpat 30 Jun 2014
In reply to Goucho:

> The reason it gets E1, is because of the 5c move getting out of the niche. If it wasn't for that, it would probably get HVS.
>
Point of detail: the 5c move is not getting out of the niche, it's getting from just above the niche to the top.
 Goucho 30 Jun 2014
In reply to Postmanpat:

> Point of detail: the 5c move is not getting out of the niche, it's getting from just above the niche to the top.

Yes it's the couple of moves above it, my mistake

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