UKC

How do I get over this? I've been climbing regularly outside for over a year now but it's been pointed out that I'm too tense while on the rock and that I need to relax. I was bouldering indoors for a few years before I started leading so maybe it's a bad habit. I'm not bothered by taking falls, I just never want to fail a route. So how do I stop myself bouldering my way up sports routes?

In reply to Pete Dangerous:

Blump

In reply to Pete Dangerous:

Do you sometimes feel like you're both a wigwam and a teepee at the same time?

In reply to Pete Dangerous:

No. Have you ever eaten beans straight from a can using a 2 finger Kitkat as a spoon?

In reply to Pete Dangerous:

No. I give in Pete - what's the punchline?

In reply to Pete Dangerous:

There's no joke, ergo no punchline.

In reply to Pete Dangerous:

Remember, if you succeed every time, then the routes are too easy. Failures can be good for you.

In reply to Pete Dangerous:


You've identified the problem here: the 'fear of failure'. You have to learn that falling off isn't a failure, as long as you analyse why you fell and use it as an opportunity to improve. It's not really something that you can train as such (with specific drills, for example): it's just getting into a different way of thinking.

p.s. I have also failed to decipher the kit kats comment

In reply to Pete Dangerous:

What's the wigwam/teepee reference? Maybe I've missed something.

In reply to Pete Dangerous:

Have you read 9 out of 10 and espresso lessons?

In reply to Pete Dangerous:

I've got 9 Out Of 10 but got a bit bored of it. I'm not good at sitting still and reading. It seemed to suggest falling a lot.

In reply to Pete Dangerous:

At the risk of going briefly on-topic, there are all sorts of established methods of relaxation, why not try one of those?
From a deep breath before you begin to placing yourself in some kind of yogic meditative state, try just getting yourself chilled out before you get on the rock perhaps?
I imagine some people would suggest trying to keep a clear mind while climbing so you don't create stress which transfers to your muscles, but personally I have to be thinking about the rock in order to remember the sequence or spot the holds.
I'm currently trying to think about keeping a minimal grip at all times so i don't waste energy over-gripping, perhaps trying to focus on one specific thing like that might help a little, once it becomes second nature you could move on to a different aspect.

In reply to Dandan:

That sounds like good advice. The over gripping thing rings true. I'm injured at the moment but when I start training again I'm going to try a different approach. Moving slowly, easing my grip and if I fall, I fall and I'll try again later.

In reply to Pete Dangerous:


Two tents.....

In reply to ChrisBrooke:

Oh yeah, I see. Tennis elbow must have affected my humerus.

In reply to Pete Dangerous:


You're being in two tents?

In reply to Pete Dangerous:


It's a pretty good approach. If I know I'm in for a pump-fest I'll consciously repeat to myself "don't overgrip" or "minimum pressure" or something like that to encourage me to use the minimum necessary pressure through the fingers. Worked well on Left Wall recently, though I see you're mostly climbing sport where I imagine it would be even more useful!

In reply to Pete Dangerous:


What is it that makes they say that? The way you yell "SLACK! F^CKING SLACK!", red in the face, while clipping, or just your climbing style?


Are boulderers tense?


Is it that easy to separate? The desire not to fail should help you get up stuff, no? The problem with an OTT fear of failure is that you don't try stuff, or react badly when you fall off.


Not sure how bouldering and leading styles should differ. Both should involve climbing efficiently, the only difference being clipping the rope.

I can't quite see what your problem is. I think to get a more relaxed, efficient climbing style, most people would recommend mileage: always warm up on plenty of easy routes, concentrating on climbing them with as near perfect technique as you can. If it's genuinely a problem you want to address and you've got time, go for whole days of mileage, maintaining perfect technique the whole time. Could take a while though...

In reply to Jon Stewart:






It's the way I moved on the rock, scrambling about for the next hand or foothold. Not looking comfortable.

Bouldering is very different to sports climbing I'd say. Very different in style. It requires more pacing, use of rests, endurance for longer routes rather than power endurance.

I have done days where I'm just looking to do mileage and yeah that could help. Recently I've had few trips out and I want to be taking home hard ticks. Maybe a bit of patience and easier mileage would be good.

In reply to Pete Dangerous:


I wouldn't focus on "being tense" then, I'd focus on just "climbing better", which is about practice more than anything. I don't really believe you can, for example, do some breathing exercises to relax and then see a big improvement in technique. It's about having miles and miles under your belt - climbing outside for a year isn't long if you're not doing it every day.


It is, but it's no better to scrabble around and snatch for holds bouldering rather than on a route. Just a matter of pace, rests and number of moves.


Are you redpointing or onsighting? I dunno much about it, but redpointing might be a good way to improve technique while getting the hard ticks? Then you can do moves without the hassle of finding the holds/uncertainty and you'll have to climb with good technique in order to have a chance on the route. Could help if you're not already doing it?

In reply to Jon Stewart:

I'll always try the onsight but stay on for the redpoint until I get it or until it's time to leave. Maybe mileage is the key. Lots of no star 6a/6bs for me then

In reply to Pete Dangerous:

It might be worth thinking about how you can do it most efficiently so you still get enough good climbing done to really enjoy the day. Doing a few laps on warm-up routes on toprope doesn't take long and gives a chance to focus on technique without other distractions. But I reckon fundamentally mileage is the answer.

In reply to Pete Dangerous:

Ok. Cheers Jon