UKC

Damaged Mallion at the Top of Striptease, Tremadog

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 SuperLee1985 16 Jul 2014
I should have mentioned this sooner but it slipped my mind.
I was climbing at Tremadog a couple of weeks back and noticed that there was damage to a mallion attached to the tat at the top of Striptease (Craig Blwch y Moch). There is an obvious crack running through the screw gate. We chose to ab directly off the tree rather than this for obvious reasons but i thought it would be irresponsible not to report it to the wider climbing community so that others can avoid using it and avoid any accidents.
Is there a propper channel for reporting stuff like this so that i gets replaced (BMC or something)? Or is it just an individuals responsibility to inspect any in-situ gear before they use it?
Removed User 16 Jul 2014
In reply to SuperLee1985:
Better still just remove it at the time?
Post edited at 13:46
 JLS 16 Jul 2014
In reply to SuperLee1985:
No-one with any sense would to report it to the BMC. If you do, they'll send a man out to fix it and it'll cost you. There's the call out fee of 100 pounds for a start, then there's the expenses to cover travelling down from Manchester. It all adds up. You'd have been better just sticking one of your screwgates on the tat and leaving it at that. It would only have cost you a tenner. Right now the BMC will be checking with UKC for your IP address. Expect a knock on the door from a man with a bill any day now.
Post edited at 14:22
Removed User 16 Jul 2014
In reply to JLS:

Lost it at the IP stuff
 ByEek 16 Jul 2014
In reply to SuperLee1985:

Why abseil when there is a perfectly reasonable walk off just along the way?
 1poundSOCKS 16 Jul 2014
In reply to ByEek:

Lots of people choose to abseil off, but I'm not sure why. Maybe they don't know how easy the walk off is? I always walk off.
 andrewmc 16 Jul 2014
In reply to SuperLee1985:

> Is there a propper channel for reporting stuff like this so that i gets replaced (BMC or something)? Or is it just an individuals responsibility to inspect any in-situ gear before they use it?

Often, but also yes.

The 'correct' channel is probably whichever altruistically-minded local climbers look after the crag rather than the BMC. It is none-the-less prudent to remove gear which is clearly and undeniably damaged or dangerous (this does not necessarily mean removing old rope, for example, which can be manky but still strong).
 Kemics 16 Jul 2014
In reply to andrewmcleod:

It can also be impossible to undo old institu stuff...without a hacksaw!
 John2 16 Jul 2014
In reply to SuperLee1985:

Why are English climbers incapable of understanding that the word is maillon, not mallion? I'm not criticising, just genuinely intrigued. I struggle to remember a single English person who has pronounced this word correctly.
 FactorXXX 16 Jul 2014
In reply to John2:

Why are English climbers incapable of understanding that the word is maillon, not mallion? I'm not criticising, just genuinely intrigued. I struggle to remember a single English person who has pronounced this word correctly.

Totally agree, but I'm Welsh.
 ewar woowar 16 Jul 2014
In reply to John2:

Queue on the left for sweeping generalisations.

;~))
 jon 16 Jul 2014
In reply to FactorXXX:
John probably meant English speaking...

@ John: Lots of Brits typically add 'i's where none exist. For example, Goutier, gran Paradisio are just two that spring to mind. Lazy reading or maybe (not) seeing what they expect to be there?
Post edited at 20:03
 John2 16 Jul 2014
In reply to jon:

In this instance, they are transposing an 'i' rather than adding one. I'm mystified - I have climbed with both Oxford and Cambridge educated climbers who cannot pronounce this word correctly.
In reply to John2:
I notice you are criticising the misspelling of "Mallion" but not of "Craig blwch y moch"......

And to get back to the original topic - an obviously cracked screwgate / maillon should be removed in case someone less observant tries to remove it, and if it won't come off it might be worth letting Eric at the Cafe know about it.
Post edited at 20:13
 Rick Graham 16 Jul 2014
> to get back to the original topic - an obviously cracked screwgate / maillon should be removed

or maybe just backed up with something , another maillon, krab or rope loop.

The cracked gate is probably just some goof over tightening it. Now effectively " gate open " strength . So discounting corrosion effects probably 25-30 % of original gate closed strength but probably still quite adequate . Definitely so if backed up.

Hopefully Mike or Jim will be along to substantiate my musings.
 FreshSlate 16 Jul 2014
In reply to John2:

> In this instance, they are transposing an 'i' rather than adding one. I'm mystified - I have climbed with both Oxford and Cambridge educated climbers who cannot pronounce this word correctly.

I wonder what they teach at Oxford if not how to pronounce niche words unrelated to their field of study?
 FactorXXX 16 Jul 2014
In reply to Rick Graham:

The cracked gate is probably just some goof over tightening it. Now effectively " gate open " strength . So discounting corrosion effects probably 25-30 % of original gate closed strength but probably still quite adequate . Definitely so if backed up.

I always thought the gate open strength of Maillons was particularly weak and that the collar must be tightened up.

 Rick Graham 16 Jul 2014
In reply to FactorXXX:
> I always thought the gate open strength of Maillons was particularly weak and that the collar must be tightened up.

Threads engaged means gate closed.
Tightening is only to stop thieves without spanners.
Over tightening damages the gate.

A quick search gives gate open at 33% of closed strength for standard oval maillons.
Post edited at 22:18
In reply to SuperLee1985:
> I should have mentioned this sooner but it slipped my mind.
> I was climbing at Tremadog a couple of weeks back and noticed that there was damage to a mallion attached to the tat at the top of Striptease (Craig Blwch y Moch). There is an obvious crack running through the screw gate. We chose to ab directly off the tree rather than this for obvious reasons but i thought it would be irresponsible not to report it to the wider climbing community so that others can avoid using it and avoid any accidents.
> Is there a propper channel for reporting stuff like this so that i gets replaced (BMC or something)? Or is it just an individuals responsibility to inspect any in-situ gear before they use it?

Why would you abseil off the tree?
 RichardMc 21 Jul 2014
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:
> Why would you abseil off the tree?

Absolutely! Cannot see any justification for abseiling off from the top of routes at Tremadog. Any competent party can be back at their sacks and ready for another route before the abseilers and will not have inconvenienced other climbers on this wonderful but busy set of cliffs.
Post edited at 09:45
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