UKC

Hi, hope some people find this useful

Downloadable (free)from:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/ThePeakPerformanceBook/

(You'll probably have to join the group)

This is an extract from the old 1987 BMC Stoney guide which has been out of print for years.

cheers
Graham

In reply to Graham Hoey:

Well done that man.

In reply to Offwidth:

Alternatively, if people prefer they can contact me direct by email.
cheers
Graham

In reply to Graham Hoey:

And here is a more up-to-date guide to the place:

http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Stoney%20West%20Topo.htm


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Hmmm, 4 trad routes out of 32 isn't so much living side by side as... swamped!

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Hi Chris, your link is to a selective guide which shows the sports routes and just a few of the trad routes - and its availability is well-known.

I hope you aren't trying to be mischievous as I have no intention of promoting or continuing any discussion re. the relative merits of the sport or trad climbs at the crag. I'm just trying to be helpful, as I'm sure you were

Graham

In reply to Graham Hoey:

How many trad routes are there, Graham?

In reply to jon:

In the old guide 30, not counting 2 down on an isolated buttress near the road.

In reply to Graham Hoey:
Went out today to try and sort out what was what here to help inform the debate a little.

I have updated the UKC Logbook listing with both the old trad routes and new sport routes. I have also added descriptions and comments to most of the trad routes. As far as I am aware this is all the current routes although there is one line I don't know where it is - The Mute Swan.

Stoney West - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=954

Conclusions
There are three full retrobolted routes - Northern's Can't Climb, Procession and Don't Talk to Strangers. The former has been discussed, the latter two are 80s style relics by Simon Cundy which both had a reasonable amount of fixed gear when first climbed.

There is some confusion over the route Horrorscope. The 1987 Stoney guide describes this as an E2 5c and no mention of fixed gear. Gary describes it as 'Shock, Horrorscope', E3 5c with 2 bolts. There is definitely one old bolt on it. It looks much closer to E3 than E2 and the second bolt is a new one right at the start that doesn't have any effect on the meat of the route.

There are a few trad routes that traversed breaks which now have the odd reachable bolt although nothing of any great significance. There are a few trad routes that now have reachable lower-offs.

The majority of the trad routes are untouched by the new routes. At least four of the trad routes are currently unclimbable because of ivy.

Alan

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Nice one Alan

Graham

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
Not quite right. Pile Up on the Dance Floor is left of House on the Hill and Rainsong is right of An Illusion.

The rebooting of Simon Cundy's routes was passed by the first ascentionist by myself even though I made a cock up of where they originally went and the names of the. Apologies to Simon for the original confusion over this.

In reply to Gary Gibson:


Thanks Gary. I couldn't really figure out where Rainsong went. The distances in that 1987 guide are a bit random and it is also a great example of why no guidebook writer should ever be allowed to use the word 'obvious'.

Presumably Rainsong is the hanging crack between An lllusion and Late at Night? If so then it is still ageing concern and not overgrown as I originally thought.

Where is Pile up on the Dancefloor? There didn't seem to be much worthy rock between House on the Hill and Twang Buttress.

Alan

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
Just left of House on the Hill past the long sling on a peg. Incidentally! I happen to have done every route on the crag save for Tequila Tory, Arbeit and the two left of the chimney on the right. And you couldn't climb any of the old trad routes until I completely cleaned the place up. Three months work and a lot of effort on my part. It really was in a bad state.

Actually the retro bolted routes are Perilscope, Procession, and Don't talk to Strangers. Plus Northerners.

Original description of Perilscope is actually in the UKC new routes section. Gary added the direct finish to my original route. I was not prepared to place bolts on the crag back in the 80's, apart form one belay I added.

Also not known is that some of the rock to the left of Rainsong was climbed by Paul Mitchell many years ago and was recorded in one of the last Crags magazines. I forget the name but got the Mitchell grade of Mxs 5b.

Simon Cundy

In reply to Stoney Boy:



Sorry Simon, missed that extra route. It was listed in any of my sources. (Curiously I can't find it in the UKC Peak New Routes DB either).

Cheers

Alan

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
I had the full script from the BMC before I did the tidying up and Perilscope nor Paul Micthel's other route wasn't in there either. I also scoured UKC and crags and couldn't' find them. I did this before I went to cleaning the crag.

Just a quick post to say that I've got a spare copy of the above mentioned 1987 Stoney guide, as well as spare copies of the other BMC Peak Limestone guides in that series.

If anyone hankers after a physical book rather than an electronic copy, drop me an email.