UKC

What are your favorite well protected low E grade routes at burbage?

In reply to dunnyg:

I think it's a bit of a rubbish crag for well protected stuff, being so short. Works much better for solos. If I had to choose one, and "well protected" might be pushing it although it certainly has gear (much to my chagrin since I soloed it expecting nothing of value), then it would be Millwheel Wall.

In reply to dunnyg:

Well the classic would be long tall sally. Quite a tricky crux but well protected. You see a few falls on this one on a busy day.

In reply to dunnyg:

Weirdly, I can't think of many well-protected low E grade routes at Burbage. Stanage has far more. Long Tall Sally is excellent. The Sentinel is good. I can vouch that The Fin is well protected and I enjoyed what I did of it (unfinished business...) Most of the others I have done have either been short solos or not well protected.

Millwheel Wall is very good, but definitely doesn't count as well protected!

In reply to Monk:


Because there aren't too many! Agree with LTS, The Fin, and the Sentinel.



Depends if you trust a Rock n Roller 3, and 2 opposing RPs in the micro-breaks.
There's a good small Friend before the top out.

Zeus swallows runners, but is bloody hard work!

cheers for the answers! Will look elsewhere I guess. I think millwheel wall is a bad bit of advice. I know someone who broke their back falling off it.

In reply to dunnyg:

Thee are quite a row so go through the starred routes in the logbooks and look for the ones that are safe. And not desperately technical. The only one I can't comment on is Damp Trousers (although I'll be gobsmaked if it's really 2 star). I'd certainly add Evening Wall to Monks best of list.

In reply to Offwidth:

Forgot about that! Brilliant route, with good gear where it matters.

In reply to dunnyg:

While we're at it, I crapped my pants on a HVS called Rainmaker, I think.

May have been having a bad day, but I thought it desperate, and dangerous!

In reply to Dispater:

My mate John Grumpypants got on that at the start of a chilly day as we were waiting for rock to warm up, as it was the only bit around that had a bit of sunlight on (I'd just numbed my fingers to total unfeelingness on an ill-advised-yet-somehow-successful "warm up" on Knight's Move). He loved Rainmaker, I thought it looked to have one full-on bold bit followed by easing off padding to top albeit still run out.

I shouldn't comment as I only seconded it, but we thought it deserved a star or two.

In reply to Blue Straggler:

Am I thinking of the right route, very undercut at the start, followed by a steep wall/slab (that I couldn't find any gear on)?

In reply to dunnyg:

Another vote for Zeus.

Midge and Gnat are also good fun.

Boggart is excellent if you're a bit of a boulderer (ie OK with 6b starts).

In reply to Dispater:


Sounds like the right route. I don't remember much gear either, but I did enjoy it. If give it a star.

Offwidth: I'd say evening wall is quite good and quite hard, but short. Nice enough but I wouldn't go out of my way for it.

In reply to Monk:


I must have just made a bollocks of it, then; it's on my mental list of routes to never ever go near again.

In reply to Dispater:


Yes. I am glad I was not leading it!

In reply to Dispater:



I have Severes on a list like that...

In reply to Blue Straggler:

Yeah!

Robin Hood's Great Flake Zig Zag thingymibob at Stanage is a Severe that's on my list, too.

In reply to Dispater:

I allowed myself to reach rightwards and place a cam on the arete. So doing it is a quality route and reasonable at the grade.

In reply to dunnyg:

How about Higgar Tor? It's still in the Burbage valley and has The Rasp (and it's variations) as well as The Mighty Atom. Brillo is safe and quite tricky for an E1 as well. You'll get to do the File too while you're there.
If E4 counts as a low E grade Flute Of Hope is supposed to be amazing but I haven't done it.

Or just go to Cratcliffe for the best E2 circuit on grit

Everyone seems to have forgotten Now or Never. Gem of a micro route, arguably better than short polished sally

In reply to mark20:

I haven't forgotten about it; I didn't think it well protected, once round the arête.

In reply to dunnyg:

The Penultimate

In reply to mark20:


Well protected?

In reply to Skyfall:

There is bomber gear in now or never if you take your time to place it from the ledge.

In reply to Si dH:

Your right but it still has a real bold feel which isn't maybe what the OP wanted.

In reply to Offwidth:

I'm going senile, or my memory for routes isn't what it was.
When you mentioned Evening Wall, which I thought was ok, but nothing special, I was thinking of a slab route, with a tough bouldery start near the very end of B North, where it begins to peter out into boulders and rubble.
I thought that was excellent, but can't remember its name.

In reply to Dispater:

There are a few ...read the logbooks in the Obscenity and FIn areas and it may be obvious then. Evening Wall is on the left of Ash Tree Wall area.

In reply to Offwidth:

Yes, I remembered which it was in the middle of the night. It has a harder variation going left, which I couldn't do. And there's a ridiculously overgraded HVS on the next small buttress up the slope.

Just checked the Database, and I was thinking of The Penultimate. (I don't have my guidebooks here, or I'd be more quickly able to identify things.)

In reply to Oceanwall:


Yes, good route!

In reply to Dispater: I think the ridiculously overgraded HVS (Ivy Tree?) used to be an undergraded HS.

In reply to Michael Hood:
UKC votes say HVS but I've only done the bouldering start and from that and a test of the next moves I know it would be at least solid VS, so it can't be that route that is ridiculous as an over-grade. It's a slight over-grade at the most. Not a place for ridiculous over-grades as the VS micro routes on the buttress just left are brutal.

In reply to Michael Hood:


I don't agree. when I finally did it, I did so on the same day I climbed several other low extreme routes and it felt reasonable at soft HVS. It's a hard move! Maybe much easier for the tall though?

In reply to dunnyg:

There are loads of low E1s at the 7 metre mark. Nicotine stain is only 6 metres though technically hard at 6b, so you may struggle somewhat.

In reply to Monk: I wasn't necessarily agreeing with the "ridiculously overgraded" bit, I was just pointing out that it used to be graded much lower.

I did it so long ago that I can't remember whether I found it hard for the HS grade - I'm 6' so maybe the long reach was ok for me.

In reply to Monk:


I should know better than to comment on grades. 'Ridiculously overgraded' was unnecessary. I felt it about VS 5a, but I am tall.

Ironically, the route I had most trouble with around there gets a lowly HS grade in the UKC database, with no technical grade. Go figure. :-/

In reply to dunnyg: I reckon Zeus is E2;good chance of decking from the
mid section while you struggle to get gear in.

Poison Dwarf is a good highball,possible harder moves than Coldest Crack....