UKC

Hi,

I am looking to push the grade up to leading E1 very soon. I have my eye on a couple at Auchinstarry Midas Touch E1 5b and Gold Rush E1 5b.

Can anyone recommend me good first E1's to lead, Preferable looking for ones with decent protection.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions

Chris

In reply to chrismcd23:

Go to Cambusbarron, all the starred E1's there are good and well protected, if you like jamming you'll probably find them easy for the grade as well.

In reply to chrismcd23:

One of the two you mention was my first E1. I can't actually remember which one, but it felt really solid and had lots of gear if you wanted it.

In reply to chrismcd23:

Assuming they haven't all fallen down, there are quite a few good candidates at Cambusbarron.

Not Easy Contract, and Malky the Alky, spring to mind.

Do be wary of large, not-quite-attached blocks on many routes there, though.

In reply to chrismcd23:

Scharnhorst, North Queensferry
Longbow, Dumbarton
Wallnut, Fastcastle Area
The Belk, Loundon Hill
Dead Ringer, Limekilns

+ the Auchinstarry ones you mentioned, plus the Cambusbarron E1s.

All great routes, just pick the ones that inspire you.

In reply to chrismcd23:

>"Midas Touch"

I wouldn't rush to do that one unless intacked ankles are not important to you.

In reply to chrismcd23:

Blue Rinse at Ratho has good gear and a short crux section between good rests.

In reply to Fiend:
wallnut? E1???

Though plain sailing is an excellent E1 there which I assume is the one you meant.

In reply to Macleod:

Correct! Sorry about that, I should have checked.

I do believe Plain Sailing has many good Wallnut placements on though...

In reply to chrismcd23:

Very short, but I enjoyed Heartbreak Corner at the Whangie.

In reply to chrismcd23:

I enjoyed the E1 finish of Cats Whiskers at 'starry. My 2nd E1 lead (too short for the E2). thin on gear though.

In reply to Stevie989:

Hmmm, not a good first E1 for most folk I suspect!

In reply to Michael Gordon:

True - Entertaining though and by the time he gets through the ones above it would be ready for him.

In reply to chrismcd23:

Dead ringer at limekilns. Bit of a trek, but short walk in and quite a few nice routes at VS-E1/2 worth a one off trip if you're not local.

In reply to CharlieMack:
I always think Dead Ringer is quite hard at E1, I actually found Elgin's Crack much easier! I suspect it's a popular first E1 though, as the big iron rings provide an easy exit strategy if it all gets too much. Well protected as well even without slinging the first ring of shame.

In reply to CMcBain:

Its certainly easy to be tactical and get the first two runners and retreat back to the ledge too before you blast on to the next rest. The crux is really well protected and has fairly obvious and good gear.
Elgins is awesome too. Short lived though.

In reply to chrismcd23: The Splits and The Belk at Loudon Hill are good. Longbow at Dumbarton is superb. Of these, from memory, I'd perhaps say The Splits is the most amenable.

At Auchinstarry Gold Rush and Powerplay both used to be very good. Not sure to what extent they have been changed by stabilisation. Last one I did there was "After the grave dig" which felt relatively easy though boldish, and I don't think I'd have quibbled with HVS...though that was a long time ago when I was young,thin,fit,and relatively bold/stupid (all I am now is relatively stupid)

In reply to chrismcd23:

I'd recommend against Midas Touch if you're looking for decent pro. Awful landing, one single piece of gear for the difficult bit and the crux is a bit run-out above that.
Gold Rush should be fine.

In reply to chrismcd23:

Cross-town traffic at Cambusbarron was my first E1, it's very well protected at the hard bit, so made a good first E1 lead.

I'd also recommend Slots at Limekilns, more of a highball boulder problem really, but I reckon it's alright if you have a spotter. It's one of the few other E1s I've lead.

I also remember trying Wall Street at Clifton near Dumfries (so not really central belt) and it's very well protected so probably a good choice, although it is quite sustained.

In reply to chrismcd23:

Another vote for The Belk. Very steady with excellent gear.

In reply to CMcBain:

Elgin's would make a good first E1, although it is fairly solid at *that* grade.

Powerplay has disappeared I think. Midas touch does need car with the gear. Slots is not an ideal E1 experience. Crosstown is good but the block at the start might unnerve the aspiring E1 leader. Ninety Five there is good, although quite tricky.

In reply to Fiend:

From memory Ninety Five used to be E2 although it never deserved this.

In reply to Fiend:


Still exists http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=50535 but doesn't see much traffic.

In reply to Fiend:

Elgin's is fair at easy E2 I think, it fits in with most of the other LK routes generally being soft for the grade. I think an aspiring E1 leader might find getting off the ground on Elgin's a rather frustrating experience and (BETA ALERT!) despite the moves above being broken up by ledges and bomber gear it's still fairly solid at 5b. Agree with Slots being a poor choice though, it's a boulder problem with a chossy topout.

For an easy E1 tick I think you couldn't get any easier than Not Easy Contract at Cambusbarron, low in the grade and gear where you want it. For fairly solid at the grade E1 tick, Dead Ringer would be good.

In reply to Mark Bull:

My mistake. Something in that area has disappeared I'm sure. Maybe my memory.

In reply to andrew ogilvie:

Longbow is superb, but not easy for the grade. Probably a good idea to have led Windjammer first.

However I second Belk, Splits, Gold Rush, Not Easy Contract.

I also agree that Gold Rush is bold.

In reply to Mark Bannan:

Doesn't have to be easy for the grade! Longbow is pretty steady, safe, and a nicer experience at the grade than Windjammer is.

In reply to Fiend:

I do admit that Longbow is well-protected. However, the OP may prefer to gain confidence on other E1s before trying Longbow - possibly he may want to have the best chance of leading it cleanly (I certainly felt this way at the time).

Windjammer is certainly more nerve-wracking than Longbow! Gear not great at the start.

In reply to Mark Bannan:


yep sometimes feels quite bold even with a no.5 cam!

In reply to chrismcd23:

I agree Midas Touch isn't a great first E1, it's really bold. Same goes for Cat's Whiskers. Gold Rush is a good bet though.

I thought Longbow was top-end E1 but it's a fantastic route. Malky the Alky at Cambu and The Belk at Loudoun are pretty soft if you want to ease yourself in

In reply to chrismcd23:

Longbow is a fantastic route. It is high in the grade and sustained - which makes it feel harder. Also as it is Dumbarton it's an odd rock if you are used to the dolerite quarries.

Not easy contact is a soft touch but still a great route and safe as houses.

95 is a nice enough wee route and it's just a case of pluggin cams in for protection. (Think I placed 3 maybe 4)