UKC

starting again

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crax 09 Aug 2014
I used to climb, twenty years ago, which is pretty much the age of my gear but of that, later.

I'd like to do some again, in a strictly limited fashion, aiming no higher than vd, or severe, grades which require the amount of effort I'm willing to put in.

My motivation, apart from thinking I'd enjoy it, is to introduce lead climbing to my two boys, both teenagers, both heavily into bouldering and both far better than I ever was, good enough to compete at a uk open level and finish with a middling place. Neither though, gets lead climbing and I think that's because of the rather neutered indoor environment everyone starts in these days.

My conundrum, apart from the cost of replacing my gear, is refreshing my skills. I'm self taught. Joined a club at Uni and learned from others and whilst I retain a lot, the details have gone and I'm rusty. Setting up a belay would see me fiddling about and scratching my head. I could re-learn, i'm sure but how. Most of my friends no longer climb and I'm conscious I want to pass on a positive experience to my kids. A simple course seems best but most are aimed as intros to outdoor rock and don't appeal. I need a simple refresher and then be left to find my own way, that was always the appeal of climbing.

Then there's the gear bit. I want to take both on simple one or two pitch climbs. My first thought is two single ropes. The second tied to the first climber to bring up and clipped to any gear which traverses. Double ropes for beginners on easy trad climbs seems overkill.

Your thoughts are much appreciated?
 wbo 09 Aug 2014
In reply to crax: my thoughts sadly, and as a father who takes his children climbing is that they'll find v-diffsi interesting for approx 0,0000001 seconds.

If they're as good as bouldering as you say then get a 60m rope, some modern quickdraws and go sport climbing. They can take you trad climbing later

crax 09 Aug 2014
In reply to wbo:

> my thoughts sadly, and as a father who takes his children climbing is that they'll find v-diffsi interesting for approx 0,0000001 seconds.

> If they're as good as bouldering as you say then get a 60m rope, some modern quickdraws and go sport climbing. They can take you trad climbing later

A valid point. I doubt it would challenge them technically but I' m after them 'getting' route climbing outdoors. Their peers may do the rest.
 jezb1 10 Aug 2014
In reply to crax:

Maybe spend a day with an MIA instructor to refresh your skills, they could easily tailor a day to your needs.

My website is on my profile or visit http://www.ami.org.uk
 Firestarter 10 Aug 2014
In reply to crax:

I was in exactly the same boat. I did an 8-week course run at the nearest University, gave me enough to build on. Any clubs/universities near you?
In reply to crax:

It sounds like a couple of days out with someone experienced might refresh your memory. Maybe post in the lifts & partners forum?

Either that or, as jezb1 says, a day with an instructor.

Ropes. Depends where you're going to be climbing, but there's ways of doing what you want to achieve with a single, a half, or two ropes. I'd stay away of anything which traverses to start with, until you are less rusty and your kids more confident.
 wbo 10 Aug 2014
In reply to crax: how hard do they climb and where are you thinking of going? Stanage might be the best option here

crax 10 Aug 2014
Tah for the input everyone. I've re-examined my motivations in the cold light of a few days since I watched the boys bouldering at a sun soaked Cromlech and RAC and have decided that there's a reason 20 years have passed since I last climbed and those reasons haven't really changed despite a stirring of old memories.

wbo probably has it right, it would interest them for a few climbs and then no longer. Son2 arranged a bouldering session with a friend at Stanage and I think I'll let them progress naturally with friends and find their own way.

If any of my friends decide to climb again I may be willing to use a belay device the wrong way around and stand on the rope as they try to go up and then drop their gear as I fumble it out seconding, provided they haul me up on a tight rope, other than that, I think I'll pass.
 wbo 10 Aug 2014
In reply to crax:
Oh no, i absolutely think you should restart climbing, i just think your motivation would have lead you to an unsatisfactory result.

You may be 20 years older, but don't discount the values of motivation and experience. Do not be surprised if you're climbing as well as ever rather quickly. Just done expect to be a rolle model ticking 7b's for your kids
 Jay83 10 Aug 2014
In reply to crax:

Have you thought about joining a local club?
 KlaasW 10 Aug 2014
In reply to crax:

I started climbing again after a 25 year break. Do it, it's great! You will have to buy all your own equipment, which is bloody expensive, but defo worth it. Join a club. I joined SHAG in Glasgow, started with bouldering, wall climbing, and last winter did my first two Scottish winter routes (IV, 4 and 5) and went back to the Alps this summer. Climbing is so much better than 20 year ago: there's videos, great walls, advice on training, amazingly light equipment, etc.
 Roland.Online 10 Aug 2014
In reply to crax:

+1 for starting again - jusst do it.

I had maybe a 10 year break, and got back into it primarily because my daughter is very keen - she's 6 1/2 now and I started her climbing two years ago.

It won't be long before she's whupping my a** but in the meantime I'm gonna enjoy climbing with her.

In fact I'm seriously considering doing a CWA/CWLA and eventually some coaching, partly because I want to pass on to her best practice (not my own bad habits) and to also be somewhat useful to her as she progresses, even if she can outclimb me.

Cheers
Roland
 Timmd 10 Aug 2014
In reply to crax:
Don't look at it just from the climbing point of view, the climbing when my own Dad took me climbing and taught be how to lead was never that challenging, but I'll always treasure the time we spent together while he did. They were some chilled sunny days on Burbage and Stanage. It played a part in cementing the bond between us.

If you did go with somebody to refresh for you how things are done, you could acknowledge that the climbing probably won't be very challenging for them, and present it to them that you're teaching them some of the skills required to have a different sort of adventure?

I've had it where my parents didn't want to cramp my style, I found out later, when I'd not even thought about that.
Post edited at 23:34
 Timmd 10 Aug 2014
In reply to crax:
Even if the do find it boring at the time, that's no to say they'll always see it in the same light, I'd be surprised if it didn't become more a fond memory as they get older. Being in my 30's now, I've noticed how my perception of things which happened earlier on has changed.

Kind of related, but not quite what I'm talking about, which is time changing how I see what my parents did, I've still got the rucksack I thought was a boring birthday present when I was 15. I don't want to get rid of it.
Post edited at 23:35
crax 11 Aug 2014
I'll do some more thinking. The decision would be easier if I still had a full set of gear I could use.

I'm not so much worried about the memories, there's plenty of other things we do and though I'm not much help indoor bouldering, outside I can still help them, spotting, reading a line, keeping their climbing heads on when they get higher and thinking about landings and stuff.

I'm meeting some friends for a wknd soon. I may bring it up with them and get some input.

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