UKC

I went climbing up on Scafell and the East Buttress this dry spell and they were fantastic, everyone should go when there's a period of good weather, such fantastic routes across the grades. Anyway they were both pretty deserted and it got me wondering what other great crags are out there that one should make a beeline to when there's been weeks of good weather? Cloggy is obviously one as is Cyrn Las, loads in Scotland I guess, some of the moorland crags in the Peak maybe. Any suggestions?

mike

In reply to mike lawrence?:

Some of the mid wales crags. I'm still waiting to try Voie Suisse and a few others !

In reply to mike lawrence?:

There's a couple of good VSs on Scrubby Crag which I'm still hoping to get to sometime, but it's getting to be long walk in for me without a Sherpa. Another obvious one is Neckband in Langdale, and I can recommend the daunting-looking VS up the corner on the left of High Crag in Buttermere valley - normally wet and dank I believe, but superb after a fortnight's dry weather, as is the nearby Eagle Front on Eagle crag - can't speak for any of the other routes there though.

In reply to mike lawrence?:

what dry spell is this?

In reply to mike lawrence?:

Pillar.

In reply to mike lawrence?:

If you want an easily accessible crag to visit in a drought then Craig Ddu in the Llanberis pass is the place to go, otherwise most of the higher mountain or moorland crags fit the bill.

In reply to mike lawrence?: Gable Crag (not the Napes crags on the sunny south side of Gable). For the VS - E3 climber it is heaven. Neckband, Langdale, Bowfell crags - try Sword of Damocles, and Cloggy of course.

In reply to shantaram:

ah yes Gable Crag, the coldest crag in the lakes sounds suitable! Looks like next year now though.

thanks for all the ideas,

mike

In reply to mike lawrence?:

Craig y Rhaeadr in the Pass?

I strongly suspect that the whole concept of climbing there unless it's frozen is a bit of a myth but you'd certainly be one of the few if you got a summer ascent there.

In reply to Postmanpat:

I've done a couple of routes on the LH side, quite bold from memory, only done the icy ones in the middle.

In reply to Bob:


Doubt if I've seen it dry since 1976 and always suspect if it did dry out it would be covered in ten years moss and assorted vegetation!

In reply to mike lawrence?:

North coast Cornish zawns.

The Great Zawn
Whirlpool Buttress
Zawn Duel, Carn Gloose
Gurnard's Head

Etc.

In reply to mike lawrence?:

Pillar for sure.

That VS on High Crag that Rog mentions is dry after a few dry days, not 2 weeks and is superb

In reply to mike lawrence?:

Creag an Dubh Loch
The Chasm
Central Corner, Beinn Eighe
Hell's Lum central section
Orion Face (The Long Climb)
Stob Coire nan Lochan (Unicorn etc)
North Face Gearr Aonach (Yo Yo etc)

In reply to Captain Solo:

Hi Ewan! From personal experience, I agree with these 2:


Also, Slime Wall on the Buachaille (surprised it's not been mentioned yet).

In reply to Postmanpat:
Craig y Rhaeadr in the Pass?

Did a route each side last summer.

Only a bit damp looking on " the Sewer "

Will go back in the next dry spell, good routes.