In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
> (In reply to Offwidth)
> Another good one, where you'll really feel you've broken into VS grade properly is Central Climb at Hen Cloud. (Remember, it used to be Hard Severe.
Still is!
> 2nd pitch has a 5a boulder problem start, but of course anyone capable of climbing VS should be able to do that.
Absolutely. To be fair, the 4b given in the Roaches guide is a little mean but the move is well protected and there is an easier (if bolder) alternative. Central Route Direct, however,
is a proper VS and really isn't very hard if you can jam at all - and also very well protected. While at Hen Cloud, someone has already mentioned Main Crack, which is definitely worth doing - hilarious.
>
> Technical Slab with the Neb Finish at the Roaches is also very low in the grade (not covered in protection, but v good where you need it), and an exceptionally fine pitch (done as one pitch).
Hmmm. I always find the Neb Finish vaguely terrifying for some reason, but yes, a brilliant pitch if you are confident.
Post edited at 08:53