UKC

E9 6C with all gear placed on the lead

https://www.facebook.com/fastascent

In reply to Hugh Cottam:

Nice one Yuji! iirc John D pre-placed some gear because it was fiddly?

In reply to IainWhitehouse:
I thought Dunny had adopted a deliberate policy of placing all gear on lead to avoid any controversy, but maybe that was post big issue.

Is Pearson going to go for the flash ?

In reply to Mark Lloyd:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=54468

In reply to Mark Lloyd:


That's what I remember.

In reply to Hugh Cottam:

To quote Yuji on Pembroke:

"Weather has been great!!!
We are having great time!!!

UK climbing has a lot of adventure.
Even easy route like E1 and E2 need to commit to climb on..I found It has always spice to climb...you can't jump on even easy route."

In reply to Mark Lloyd:

John pre-placed only one wire on Big Issue and there were also an insitu thread and peg on the route. (John confirmed this morning in a pm after I posted)

Based on that Yuji's is probably not such an improvement in style as I imagined, but a fine effort nonetheless.

In reply to IainWhitehouse:

Then again, if the wire is fiddly to place it may make quite a significant difference?

In reply to Michael Gordon:

I would have thought in the case of an in-situ peg, twenty years of being sprayed with salt water might be a significant difference?

In reply to IainWhitehouse:

As it says in the link posted earlier, Steve McClure placed all gear on lead, so this is not new. Great that Yuji is checking out the British trad though, it will be interesting to see what else he gets done. First ever onsight of an 8c in 2004, Nose record in 2007 and clearly still going strong...

In reply to robin mueller:

Just to clarify, I posted about this ascent because I thought it was noteworthy that a Japanese climber who has excelled at sports and competition climbing over the past 20 years (as well as some pretty respectable ascents in Yosemite) chose to visit Pembroke and tick a pretty major trad climb in what can only be described as good style. I at no point suggested that it was the best style that the Big Issue had been climbed in to date. Though, it seems that only Steve McClure's ascent equals it.

It is particularly interesting as it is AFAIK the only foreign ascent of a non-grit E9 in the UK to date. I wait to be corrected.

In reply to Hugh Cottam:
According to Adrian Berry, Steve McClure did use pre-placed gear on The Big Issue.


That would make Hirayama's lead the first clean one. Impressive stuff.

". Several years ago Steve McClure and myself made the second and third ascents of the Pembroke route The Big Issue. This route was given huge publicity, and used to push an anti-bolt pro-environmental agenda.

But I can tell you that viewed close-up, after the bolts were hammered flat, and alternative fixed protection (jammed wires and a peg) were placed, it was a total mess. The route has never really been climbed in a traditional style to this day, and remains a de-facto sport route - just that now it’s even more of an eyesore. After our ascents, we removed as much of the jammed gear as we could - but is a jammed wire really “better” than a stainless bolt?"
Adrian Berry"


See here, near the bottom https://www.thebmc.co.uk/big-issues-2-ethics

In reply to Hugh Cottam:

Well, you had to wait half an hour.

Canadian Steve Townshend climbed Muy Caliente http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57903 , and Sonny Trotter climbed Rhapsody http://www.climbing.com/news/sonnie-trotter-repeats-irhapsodyi/ .

Not to take anything away from Yuji - it's fantastic to see foreign climbers repeating hard climbs in Pembroke. There have been a few French teams operating at slightly lower levels in recent years as well.

In reply to Hugh Cottam:
It is particularly interesting as it is AFAIK the only foreign ascent of a non-grit E9 in the UK to date. I wait to be corrected.

If Dave MacLeod gets his way, he'll soon be foreign...

Plus, hasn't Caroline Ciavaldini done an E9 in North Wales?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68289

(Edited the spelling of MacLoed)

In reply to FactorXXX:

Didn't the Japanese kid do an E9 in Cornwall too on one of the BMC meets? (Maybe it was 'just' an E8!)