UKC

Abseiling off Pillar Rock

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 samharrison7 08 Sep 2014
I'm after a bit of information about abseiling off Pillar Rock. I believe an abseil into Jordan Gap is possible, but if I remember it correctly getting down from the gap looked tricky and loose in itself. Is it the convention to abseil into the gap and then abseil again down to the start of Slab and Notch, or can the abseil be done as one (I would think you'd need a lot of rope to do this), or am I just mis-remembering it and can you scramble down from the gap?

Hope that makes sense. Whilst we're on the subject, I'm presuming there's a good point on top to abseil from?

Cheers,
Sam
 atrendall 08 Sep 2014
In reply to samharrison7:

Did this about a month ago;
there is a good ab point with in situ tat, at the time there was a tied off rope in situ that reached to the JG and looked permanent being the right length and even having the length written on one end (20m). Easy scramble down from here on S and L side or could be abed with a longer rope. Hope this helps.
In reply to samharrison7:

You can ab down from the summit of High Man to the foot of either East ot West Jordan Gullies with 50m ropes but you stand a fair chance of getting the ropes stuck when trying to pull them down.

If you are happy soloing Mod it is actually quicker to solo down Slab & Notch if heading back along the Shamrock Traverse or the Old West if heading for the Western Scree than it is faffing around with ab ropes.

Alternatively, you can ab into the Jordan Gap and ab down East Jordan Gully, but better in my opinion is to solo (or rope) the Pisgah West Traverse (Mod) which traverses an obvious footledge from the highest point of the Jordan Gap (only a few moves)and gains Pisgah West Rib and so easily to the top of Pisgah, then scramble down the south side. This saves a lot of descent and ascent.
OP samharrison7 11 Sep 2014
In reply to samharrison7:

Cheers for the help guys, very useful. I'd be happy to down climb Slab & Notch but my second little less so, so I though perhaps abseiling might be the easier option.
 Mark Eddy 11 Sep 2014
In reply to samharrison7:

Was on High Man & Pisgah this afternoon.

Plenty of ab tat on High Man. There's also a single (and new-ish looking) single in Jordan Gap. Scrambling down Jordan Gap is ok too.

Wrote a short blog post here: http://www.climb-scafell.co.uk/blog

 pog100 11 Sep 2014
In reply to samharrison7:
I did the descent with my wife, an inexperienced climber, and two short abseils back to the start of slab and notch were fine, both with good in situ tat
Post edited at 22:29
OP samharrison7 22 Sep 2014
In reply to samharrison7:

Did the climb on Sunday. Nice route, good value for a grade 3 scramble I thought!

We abseiled into Jordon Gap (lots of tat on the summit) and then I lowered my second back down to the start of Slab & Notch and I soloed down. There wasn't any tat in Jordon Gap when we were there, but a few good boulders/flakes that you could wrap a rope around to ab down if you wanted.

Cheers again for the advice.

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