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You are at the 2nd belay (a bomber tree) and 80m above the ground. The 40m pitch you have just led was terrifying as there was no gear between you and the belay. You are scared out of your wits and decide that you cannot continue and you and your mate must get off the route. You have 1 x 60m rope and a normal trad rack and kit. Your partner is at the 1st belay, another bomber belay 40m above the ground.
You have to get yourself and your partner down safely; jumping any distance, throwing ropes back up the crag, unravelling the rope to tie the kerns together is NOT classed as safe.
Get out of that...
Post edited at 17:20
In reply to Jim Walton:
Is the first pitch unprotected?
What length of slings/cordalette do you have?
Does it count as safe to twist ropes and ab off the end of one?
Do you have an answer?
Is the first pitch unprotected?
What length of slings/cordalette do you have?
Does it count as safe to twist ropes and ab off the end of one?
Do you have an answer?
In reply to Jim Walton:
How many slings you got on you boyo? If it 3 x 8m and a couple of fours it's easy.
How many slings you got on you boyo? If it 3 x 8m and a couple of fours it's easy.
In reply to Jim Walton: As a complete muppet for not thinking sufficiently ahead that you might need to retreat, and thus need a longer rope or two half ropes, you ought to be left to dangle there...
... but I'd sling myself to the tree, allowing my partner to tie the rope to the first bomber belay and abseil to the ground. Once there, he could get help, ideally in the form of a decent length rope, which he could lower down to you (you haven't said how far down from the top of the cliff you are, so I'm assuming it's just another pitch).
... but I'd sling myself to the tree, allowing my partner to tie the rope to the first bomber belay and abseil to the ground. Once there, he could get help, ideally in the form of a decent length rope, which he could lower down to you (you haven't said how far down from the top of the cliff you are, so I'm assuming it's just another pitch).
In reply to Jim Walton:
Drop the rope to your mate and let him get to the ground. Then he can go get some more ropes, have some dinner, maybe a beer and then come and rescue you from above.
Drop the rope to your mate and let him get to the ground. Then he can go get some more ropes, have some dinner, maybe a beer and then come and rescue you from above.
In reply to Jim Walton:
Rope round tree, one end 40m to the belay below, the other end 20m. Put a figure of eight in the rope on the 20m side and clip a screwgate to the loop and to the 40m end. Link together whatever you have - gear, krabs, draws, trousers, shoelaces, whatever so that it is 20m and attach it to the end of the 20m side. Ab down to the belay just on the 40m side. Pull the rope down on whatever is dangling off the 20m. Repeat to the ground. (I haven't bothered factoring in rope stretch).
Rope round tree, one end 40m to the belay below, the other end 20m. Put a figure of eight in the rope on the 20m side and clip a screwgate to the loop and to the 40m end. Link together whatever you have - gear, krabs, draws, trousers, shoelaces, whatever so that it is 20m and attach it to the end of the 20m side. Ab down to the belay just on the 40m side. Pull the rope down on whatever is dangling off the 20m. Repeat to the ground. (I haven't bothered factoring in rope stretch).
In reply to Jim Walton:
However, I think the real answer is "I would have shat myself and downclimbed/FF2d the belay a long time before leading a 40m unprotected pitch."
However, I think the real answer is "I would have shat myself and downclimbed/FF2d the belay a long time before leading a 40m unprotected pitch."
In reply to Jim Walton:
Just read the replies above - mine is a version of the long rap with short rope link
Just read the replies above - mine is a version of the long rap with short rope link
In reply to whenry:
Dropping the rope would be a very last resort for me, although your idea could certainly work. The OP doesn't mention how far the top of the crag is, or whether it's overhanging, so getting a rope to you might not be possible in any reasonable way/timeframe. What if the rope gets caught dropping it - is there any wind that would hinder?
1 - If you have the guide book, I'd look to identify an easier route to ab down, such that you could stop and get an intermediate stance. I'm assuming the first pitch had gear on it and you can repeat that once you reach your mate.
2 - pretty much what they said above.
> ... but I'd sling myself to the tree, allowing my partner to tie the rope to the first bomber belay and abseil to the ground. Once there, he could get help, ideally in the form of a decent length rope, which he could lower down to you (you haven't said how far down from the top of the cliff you are, so I'm assuming it's just another pitch).
Dropping the rope would be a very last resort for me, although your idea could certainly work. The OP doesn't mention how far the top of the crag is, or whether it's overhanging, so getting a rope to you might not be possible in any reasonable way/timeframe. What if the rope gets caught dropping it - is there any wind that would hinder?
1 - If you have the guide book, I'd look to identify an easier route to ab down, such that you could stop and get an intermediate stance. I'm assuming the first pitch had gear on it and you can repeat that once you reach your mate.
2 - pretty much what they said above.
Post edited at 17:54
In reply to humptydumpty:
There is gear on the first pitch (but it's not really relevant)
You have normal amount of slings, let's say three (not really relevant)
Yes I have a couple of solutions, and you only need the rope. No slings required.
The long abseil, short rope just won't work will it. Or not by my maths and it's stretching the bounds of "safety" if you are trying to make 20m of tag line up.
There is a much simpler solution just using the rope. I'll give more clues later if people really want them.
There is gear on the first pitch (but it's not really relevant)
You have normal amount of slings, let's say three (not really relevant)
Yes I have a couple of solutions, and you only need the rope. No slings required.
The long abseil, short rope just won't work will it. Or not by my maths and it's stretching the bounds of "safety" if you are trying to make 20m of tag line up.
There is a much simpler solution just using the rope. I'll give more clues later if people really want them.
Post edited at 18:03
In reply to Jim Walton:
Ladies and gentlemen, I present: the elasticated fifi hook retrievable abseil.
youtube.com/watch?v=b8Ute5c2BVk&
You may have to leave some gear behind if you can't find a suitable natural hook placement. If you have failed to bring a fifi hook with you I would suggest using your nutkey, and if you are not carrying an elastic strap (surely standard equipment on any trad route) I would suggest fashioning something from the elastic in your underwear (it's only going to get dirty once you start abseiling off a nutkey, anyway...).
PS do not do this. Ever. Really.
Ladies and gentlemen, I present: the elasticated fifi hook retrievable abseil.
youtube.com/watch?v=b8Ute5c2BVk&
You may have to leave some gear behind if you can't find a suitable natural hook placement. If you have failed to bring a fifi hook with you I would suggest using your nutkey, and if you are not carrying an elastic strap (surely standard equipment on any trad route) I would suggest fashioning something from the elastic in your underwear (it's only going to get dirty once you start abseiling off a nutkey, anyway...).
PS do not do this. Ever. Really.
In reply to Jim Walton:
There is also the classic 'cut sheepshank', but I'm not sure this is much safer than the retrievable fifi hook abseil (in fact it might even be worse!)...
edit: you can just let your partner abseil to the first belay normally on a single strand, before you start the more insane abseil...
Does the tree have any convenient spiky branches that a bight could be hooked onto and flicked off later?
> There is a much simpler solution just using the rope. I'll give more clues later if people really want them.
There is also the classic 'cut sheepshank', but I'm not sure this is much safer than the retrievable fifi hook abseil (in fact it might even be worse!)...
edit: you can just let your partner abseil to the first belay normally on a single strand, before you start the more insane abseil...
Does the tree have any convenient spiky branches that a bight could be hooked onto and flicked off later?
Post edited at 18:17
In reply to andrewmcleod:
You both have to get down. Let's say you are the best man and he's the groom and you popped out for a pre wedding climb. If you are not back in time your wife the bride and the church will all find out, the father in law is much bigger than you...
You both have to get down. Let's say you are the best man and he's the groom and you popped out for a pre wedding climb. If you are not back in time your wife the bride and the church will all find out, the father in law is much bigger than you...
In reply to Jim Walton:
It's a pain in the neck but making up 20m of tag line isn't unsafe.
I will be very interested in the rope only solution.
It's a pain in the neck but making up 20m of tag line isn't unsafe.
I will be very interested in the rope only solution.
In reply to ericinbristol:
Point taken. I'm at pains to call it a solution though, perhaps not in keeping with the game and perhaps because it's a method I'd tried to discount by saying you only had a standard rack.
It is, however, a possible solution .
Point taken. I'm at pains to call it a solution though, perhaps not in keeping with the game and perhaps because it's a method I'd tried to discount by saying you only had a standard rack.
It is, however, a possible solution .
In reply to ericinbristol:
Could be tricky though...
I have on my far-too-heavy trad rack a 4m sling, two 2.4m slings and a few 60cm slings (so only about 10m so far). At this point I would start chaining quickdraws; each one is probably at least 30cm so 10 gives me another 3m, so up to about 13m total? Four torque nuts with extendible slings (probably about 60cm each?) and six dragons (probably about 40cm each?) gets you up to about 17.8m, at which point I would be reduced to either tying my clothes together or chaining nuts...
Might work, might not.
> It's a pain in the neck but making up 20m of tag line isn't unsafe.
Could be tricky though...
I have on my far-too-heavy trad rack a 4m sling, two 2.4m slings and a few 60cm slings (so only about 10m so far). At this point I would start chaining quickdraws; each one is probably at least 30cm so 10 gives me another 3m, so up to about 13m total? Four torque nuts with extendible slings (probably about 60cm each?) and six dragons (probably about 40cm each?) gets you up to about 17.8m, at which point I would be reduced to either tying my clothes together or chaining nuts...
Might work, might not.
Post edited at 18:23
In reply to Jim Walton:
Cut the rope into one 20m and one 40m length, attach a carabiner/maillon to one end of the 20m rope, tie the other end to the tree (or sling around the tree if that extra metre is critical) ab off the top tree using the 20m rope, at the end thread your 40m length through the krab and passing the krab using your prusiks (or slings) ab down on the doubled up 40m length to your partner. Pull through the 40m length and tie to the second tree, ab down to the ground.
Cut the rope into one 20m and one 40m length, attach a carabiner/maillon to one end of the 20m rope, tie the other end to the tree (or sling around the tree if that extra metre is critical) ab off the top tree using the 20m rope, at the end thread your 40m length through the krab and passing the krab using your prusiks (or slings) ab down on the doubled up 40m length to your partner. Pull through the 40m length and tie to the second tree, ab down to the ground.
In reply to andrewmcleod:
If you have a knife on you, cut the slings and tie together, et voila - twice the length, and nigh on 20m. If you're still a bit short, prusik loops are also an option. Not that I'm suggesting that cutting up your entire complement of slings is the best option - or even a sensible one.
If you have a knife on you, cut the slings and tie together, et voila - twice the length, and nigh on 20m. If you're still a bit short, prusik loops are also an option. Not that I'm suggesting that cutting up your entire complement of slings is the best option - or even a sensible one.
In reply to EddInaBox:
A neat solution to the problem, I learned something here. Mind you, it is limited to two abs of that length whereas mine gets you down as many abs as you want.
Andrew: as I said, my solution could involve adding clothes. Indeed you could tear them into strips and get even more length.
A neat solution to the problem, I learned something here. Mind you, it is limited to two abs of that length whereas mine gets you down as many abs as you want.
Andrew: as I said, my solution could involve adding clothes. Indeed you could tear them into strips and get even more length.
In reply to Jim Walton:
You've got a bloody funny idea of being a winner. Not only is my ego shot to pieces because I've wussed out of finishing a route, I've got to go and buy myself a new rope!
> And we have a winner.
You've got a bloody funny idea of being a winner. Not only is my ego shot to pieces because I've wussed out of finishing a route, I've got to go and buy myself a new rope!
In reply to Jim Walton:
If you've climbed up it you can climb down it, or some of it at least. Not knowing any fancy methods I'd pull up all free rope then start abbing down the 20 meters I have, at the end of this I'd tie in to the rope down to my second on the first belay now 20 m below me and get them to put me on a loose belay. From here I'd untie the rope to the tree above and downclimb to the first belay as quickly as possible. Yes you could take a factor 2 fall but you won't hit the floor. You could get your second to back up the belay with a prussic to save your belayers hands just in case.
If you've climbed up it you can climb down it, or some of it at least. Not knowing any fancy methods I'd pull up all free rope then start abbing down the 20 meters I have, at the end of this I'd tie in to the rope down to my second on the first belay now 20 m below me and get them to put me on a loose belay. From here I'd untie the rope to the tree above and downclimb to the first belay as quickly as possible. Yes you could take a factor 2 fall but you won't hit the floor. You could get your second to back up the belay with a prussic to save your belayers hands just in case.
In reply to mrchewy:
Would that mean he could still claim the onsight?
> Drop the rope to your mate and let him get to the ground. Then he can go get some more ropes, have some dinner, maybe a beer and then come and rescue you from above.
Would that mean he could still claim the onsight?
In reply to andrewmcleod:
Mental.
Could you do similar with a skyhook, and get away without using the elastic? Not sure when I'd be this far up without underwear though, unless this was one of many abseils.
> Ladies and gentlemen, I present: the elasticated fifi hook retrievable abseil.
Mental.
Could you do similar with a skyhook, and get away without using the elastic? Not sure when I'd be this far up without underwear though, unless this was one of many abseils.
In reply to humptydumpty:
Isn't that a variation on the "drop an ice axe 50 metres onto your own head" abseil?
Isn't that a variation on the "drop an ice axe 50 metres onto your own head" abseil?
In reply to humptydumpty:
That is one of the maddest things I have ever seen, and I've been to Leeds!!
That is one of the maddest things I have ever seen, and I've been to Leeds!!
In reply to andrewmcleod:
Well I don't have a fifi or sky hook, so I'd have to use a nutkey. Perhaps I'd back it up with my partner's nutkey...
For an alternative, put the rope round the tree at the 20m mark. Abseil on doubles for 20m, then just before you go off the end of the short half, spin around a lot until the ropes are really twisted. Now abseil quickly down on a single before it untwists.
Well I don't have a fifi or sky hook, so I'd have to use a nutkey. Perhaps I'd back it up with my partner's nutkey...
For an alternative, put the rope round the tree at the 20m mark. Abseil on doubles for 20m, then just before you go off the end of the short half, spin around a lot until the ropes are really twisted. Now abseil quickly down on a single before it untwists.
In reply to Jim Walton:
I'd do what getthin-allen suggests.
Start down climbing with double roped protection pulling it through the last bit of protection each time until you both reach the ground. You can always go back and tretrieve the gear you left behind.
Or alternatively you can put it on the Lost and Found board.
Cutting the rope is a bit of a no brainer in my view.
I'd do what getthin-allen suggests.
Start down climbing with double roped protection pulling it through the last bit of protection each time until you both reach the ground. You can always go back and tretrieve the gear you left behind.
Or alternatively you can put it on the Lost and Found board.
Cutting the rope is a bit of a no brainer in my view.
In reply to andrewmcleod:
Thinking about it, if there was a suitable placement handy you could[1] presumably combine this with the Trad Texas Rope Trick to abseil a full rope length off a single cam with the elastic on the rope pulling at the trigger wire, and get the whole setup back when you're done? Am I right in thinking that the spring on a loaded cam is basically redundant?
[1] could =/= should
> Ladies and gentlemen, I present: the elasticated fifi hook retrievable abseil.
> You may have to leave some gear behind if you can't find a suitable natural hook placement. If you have failed to bring a fifi hook with you I would suggest using your nutkey, and if you are not carrying an elastic strap (surely standard equipment on any trad route) I would suggest fashioning something from the elastic in your underwear (it's only going to get dirty once you start abseiling off a nutkey, anyway...).
Thinking about it, if there was a suitable placement handy you could[1] presumably combine this with the Trad Texas Rope Trick to abseil a full rope length off a single cam with the elastic on the rope pulling at the trigger wire, and get the whole setup back when you're done? Am I right in thinking that the spring on a loaded cam is basically redundant?
[1] could =/= should
In reply to Dave Perry:
Unfortunately, as stated in the OP, you have been unable to place any gear in the second pitch so the last bit of gear is the belay 40m below you?
Unfortunately, as stated in the OP, you have been unable to place any gear in the second pitch so the last bit of gear is the belay 40m below you?
In reply to Jim Walton:
yep you'd have to be pretty sure of yourself to reverse a 40m unprotected pitch, and if the ground's that easy then you probably wouldn't get to the point of considering other options!
yep you'd have to be pretty sure of yourself to reverse a 40m unprotected pitch, and if the ground's that easy then you probably wouldn't get to the point of considering other options!
In reply to Jim Walton:
a. In the real world get out the cellphone and call mountain rescue.
b. In the world of maths problems....
Hook up your belay device to the anchor, thread the rope.
Lower off, holding the other end of the rope to control the descent. At 30m + stretch you'll get to the end of the dead rope with maybe 7 or 8m to go to the 1st belay. Let go the dead rope and downclimb. If you slip the rope can't feed through at full speed because its still going through the high-friction belay device at the top and there's a fair bit of rope weight putting some force on the dead side. You've only got at most 7m to the belay and falling much slower than a free fall so as long as you can get stopped at the 1st belay you'll be fine.
Pull the rope through. Then use your partner's belay device to set up the same trick for the first pitch.
I claim this is slightly safer than the fifi-hook retrievable abseil and you don't have to chop the rope.
a. In the real world get out the cellphone and call mountain rescue.
b. In the world of maths problems....
Hook up your belay device to the anchor, thread the rope.
Lower off, holding the other end of the rope to control the descent. At 30m + stretch you'll get to the end of the dead rope with maybe 7 or 8m to go to the 1st belay. Let go the dead rope and downclimb. If you slip the rope can't feed through at full speed because its still going through the high-friction belay device at the top and there's a fair bit of rope weight putting some force on the dead side. You've only got at most 7m to the belay and falling much slower than a free fall so as long as you can get stopped at the 1st belay you'll be fine.
Pull the rope through. Then use your partner's belay device to set up the same trick for the first pitch.
I claim this is slightly safer than the fifi-hook retrievable abseil and you don't have to chop the rope.
Post edited at 21:43
In reply to Jim Walton:
But if you have followed my suggestion and lowered yourself 20 m first it becomes more realistic.
> Unfortunately, as stated in the OP, you have been unable to place any gear in the second pitch so the last bit of gear is the belay 40m below you?
But if you have followed my suggestion and lowered yourself 20 m first it becomes more realistic.
In reply to Duncan Bourne:
This, of course, is the correct response.
However, if your mate is also a pussy, then assuming:
a) You don't have 20m worth of slings (I usually don't) and
b) There is only <60m of not-too-overhanging rock above you and
c) There is gear good enough to ab off half way up the first pitch
in which case the answer is trivial.
> 1. bring your mate up to second belay
> 2. Say "your lead mate best of luck"
> 2. Say "your lead mate best of luck"
This, of course, is the correct response.
However, if your mate is also a pussy, then assuming:
a) You don't have 20m worth of slings (I usually don't) and
b) There is only <60m of not-too-overhanging rock above you and
c) There is gear good enough to ab off half way up the first pitch
in which case the answer is trivial.
In reply to humptydumpty:
No, that adds up to 80m. If you have already descended 20m, that means 20m fall to the belay plus 20m beyond because you had 20m of rope out (plus rope stretch) so only 20m further if it all goes wrong, 60m in total.
No, that adds up to 80m. If you have already descended 20m, that means 20m fall to the belay plus 20m beyond because you had 20m of rope out (plus rope stretch) so only 20m further if it all goes wrong, 60m in total.
In reply to Jim Walton:
If you're going to cut a perfectly good rope you might as well cut 3m off it to get 20+m of tag line from the core and a serviceable 57m rope you can take home to use another day.
jk
> And we have a winner.
If you're going to cut a perfectly good rope you might as well cut 3m off it to get 20+m of tag line from the core and a serviceable 57m rope you can take home to use another day.
jk
In reply to jkarran:
"> If you're going to cut a perfectly good rope you might as well cut 3m off it to get 20+m of tag line from the core and a serviceable 57m rope you can take home to use another day."
And considering that my Mammut 50 m ropes are actually closer to 55 m you've may still have a 60+ m rope in the end.
"> If you're going to cut a perfectly good rope you might as well cut 3m off it to get 20+m of tag line from the core and a serviceable 57m rope you can take home to use another day."
And considering that my Mammut 50 m ropes are actually closer to 55 m you've may still have a 60+ m rope in the end.
In reply to Jim Walton:
Plenty of sensible suggestions here, so I can feel justified in offering the following silly suggestion: Wing suit!
Plenty of sensible suggestions here, so I can feel justified in offering the following silly suggestion: Wing suit!
In reply to Jim Walton:
Alternatively, tie rope to tree. Ab to stance. Cut rope. Abseil the bottom pitch as a series of 10m pitches, leaving gear as you go. Go to pub. Give up climbing and take up golf.
Alternatively, tie rope to tree. Ab to stance. Cut rope. Abseil the bottom pitch as a series of 10m pitches, leaving gear as you go. Go to pub. Give up climbing and take up golf.
In reply to Jim Walton:
Your only option is to reverse climb down to the first belay. Sorry but you can not make a 60 meter rope into an 80 meter rope.
Or just continue with the route hoping the next pitch is better.
Your only option is to reverse climb down to the first belay. Sorry but you can not make a 60 meter rope into an 80 meter rope.
Or just continue with the route hoping the next pitch is better.
Post edited at 10:24
1
In reply to Aigen:
Just in case you missed it above, the current sensible answer is:
Cut the rope into one 20m and one 40m length, attach a carabiner/maillon to one end of the 20m rope, tie the other end to the tree (or sling around the tree if that extra metre is critical) ab off the top tree using the 20m rope, at the end thread your 40m length through the krab and passing the krab using your prusiks (or slings) ab down on the doubled up 40m length to your partner. Pull through the 40m length and tie to the second tree, ab down to the ground.
Just in case you missed it above, the current sensible answer is:
Cut the rope into one 20m and one 40m length, attach a carabiner/maillon to one end of the 20m rope, tie the other end to the tree (or sling around the tree if that extra metre is critical) ab off the top tree using the 20m rope, at the end thread your 40m length through the krab and passing the krab using your prusiks (or slings) ab down on the doubled up 40m length to your partner. Pull through the 40m length and tie to the second tree, ab down to the ground.
In reply to Jim Walton:
What's so sensible about needlessly butchering a rope when you can easily and safely get away with trimming just a little off it?
jk
> Just in case you missed it above, the current sensible answer is:
> Cut the rope into one 20m and one 40m length
> Cut the rope into one 20m and one 40m length
What's so sensible about needlessly butchering a rope when you can easily and safely get away with trimming just a little off it?
jk
In reply to Jim Walton:
Has anyone mentioned that answer that is to bring your mate up and get him to lead to the top? After all, it is you who is scared out of your whits. Your mate is fine. Also - what grade is this climb? Huge sections of multipitch climbs VS and below are totally down-climable. Anything harder and you wonder why the leader is pulling up a second on such a committed climb who is incapable of leading at that grade.
> Just in case you missed it above, the current sensible answer is:
Has anyone mentioned that answer that is to bring your mate up and get him to lead to the top? After all, it is you who is scared out of your whits. Your mate is fine. Also - what grade is this climb? Huge sections of multipitch climbs VS and below are totally down-climable. Anything harder and you wonder why the leader is pulling up a second on such a committed climb who is incapable of leading at that grade.
Post edited at 13:16
1
In reply to ByEek:
You might wonder but since it is an exercise you have to assume it has happened.
> (In reply to Jim Walton)
> [...]
>
> Has anyone mentioned that answer that is to bring your mate up and get him to lead to the top? After all, it is you who is scared out of your whits. Your mate is fine. Also - what grade is this climb? Huge sections of multipitch climbs VS and below are totally down-climable. Anything harder and you wonder why the leader is pulling up a second on such a committed climb who is incapable of leading at that grade.
> [...]
>
> Has anyone mentioned that answer that is to bring your mate up and get him to lead to the top? After all, it is you who is scared out of your whits. Your mate is fine. Also - what grade is this climb? Huge sections of multipitch climbs VS and below are totally down-climable. Anything harder and you wonder why the leader is pulling up a second on such a committed climb who is incapable of leading at that grade.
You might wonder but since it is an exercise you have to assume it has happened.
In reply to ByEek:
Maybe it's a new route so they don't know how hard it is? Or the guidebook has sandbagged them? Or the leader's brain was too frazzled after the 2nd pitch to contemplate another bold one?
In any case, no reason why both have to be capable of leading at the grade (though admittedly, you'd hope one of them would be!).
Grade doesn't come into it anyway - no doubt many would be happy downclimbing much harder than VS, and many wouldn't be happy reversing an unprotected v-diff.
Maybe it's a new route so they don't know how hard it is? Or the guidebook has sandbagged them? Or the leader's brain was too frazzled after the 2nd pitch to contemplate another bold one?
In any case, no reason why both have to be capable of leading at the grade (though admittedly, you'd hope one of them would be!).
Grade doesn't come into it anyway - no doubt many would be happy downclimbing much harder than VS, and many wouldn't be happy reversing an unprotected v-diff.
In reply to Jim Walton:
There must be somewhere your mate can pendulum to, to get off the route. You belay your second up as far up as necessary, they run left and right to pendulum to easier ground. They get up to a safe position above you, then bring you up on a tight rope.
There must be somewhere your mate can pendulum to, to get off the route. You belay your second up as far up as necessary, they run left and right to pendulum to easier ground. They get up to a safe position above you, then bring you up on a tight rope.
1
In reply to Orgsm:
Ah, lateral thinking! Would obviously only work if near the end of the crag, or if there is something they can reach which they're happy soloing and without the rope snagging on anything inbetween.
Ah, lateral thinking! Would obviously only work if near the end of the crag, or if there is something they can reach which they're happy soloing and without the rope snagging on anything inbetween.
In reply to Jim Walton:
Got to agree with daisy chaining draws/hexes/slings together to get a tagline. Or J Karrens suggestion of cutting into the rope and making a lot of line with the strands of the core of the rope.
Got to agree with daisy chaining draws/hexes/slings together to get a tagline. Or J Karrens suggestion of cutting into the rope and making a lot of line with the strands of the core of the rope.
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