UKC

Wharncliffe lost routes

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 RM199 18 Sep 2014
Hi

Trying to locate some routes that were first put up by JWP, and seem not to be locateable or graded in the most recent guidebook.

Cumberland Traverse - Assume its near cumberland crack, but no grade or description despite it being mentioned in the first ascents info.
Skylight Climb - Again mentioned in the first ascents but not in the index? any ideas?
Thin Chimney - Mentioned in the JWP biography by JP Craddock, but as yet I have been unable to place or grade this.

Hoping to do all the great mans wharncliffe routes in a day but currently its just not complete

please help!
 Offwidth 19 Sep 2014
In reply to RM199:
There is guestimate info here in guides in our Wharncliffe pages (if you disagree please let Moff and I know there were about 100 routes in the area in 1900 so there must be details somewhere):

http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/
Post edited at 10:36
 Offwidth 19 Sep 2014
In reply to RM199:

There is guestimate info here in guides in our wharnecliffe pages (if you disagree please let Moff and I know there were about 100 routes in the area in 1900 so there must be details somewhere):

http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/





 Simon Caldwell 19 Sep 2014
In reply to RM199:

Cumberland Traverse (done this and it's worthwhile)
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=134516
Skylight Climb (done this too but didn't realise until this thread that it was a listed route!)
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=81261

No idea about Thin Chimney though!
 deepstar 19 Sep 2014
In reply to RM199:
> Hi

> Trying to locate some routes that were first put up by JWP, and seem not to be locateable or graded in the most recent guidebook.

> I recently bought the"definitive" BMC guidebook "Burbage,Millstone and Beyond" and was surprised that are only about 4 moderate routes listed at Wharncliffe whereas UKC lists 18. I could understand this if it were new hard routes that had'nt been recorded yet but with easy routes like this I would assume that they had been done ages ago and if it is(as it says on the cover) The Definitive Gritstone Guide. All the routes-all the bouldering why does it not have all the routes.

>

>

>
Post edited at 15:55
 Offwidth 19 Sep 2014
In reply to deepstar:
Because crap vegetated mod gullys do not always constitute a route. Being definitive in a modern area guide does not mean all inclusive equal treatment. Plus if you check the definitive carefully many of them are in but are just unnamed: the chimney to the right is mod...etc. Some benefits we saw of putting them in the 'offwidth' site is it takes the pressure off the definitives and stops daft retro claims and acts as a reference to obscurists and future editors. There are plenty of these not yet on UKC logs. The Puttrell routes were almost certainly mostly clear lines where the majority were never properly described anywhere I've seen and hence have just been renamed.
Post edited at 17:16
 Grumpy Old Man 20 Sep 2014
In reply to RM199:

Cumberland Traverse is described as a 50 foot Diff in the 1951 Sheffield Area Guide. "Start from the right hand end of the face containing Cumberland Crack, at a good ledge. Move left across a V-chimney and into Cumberland Crack which is descended to a scoop. Traverse left and up to finish via the crack above the crevassed platform."

I can't see any reference to the other two routes.
 Offwidth 20 Sep 2014
In reply to Grumpy Old Man:

There were more routes in 1900 than 1951!
 Grumpy Old Man 20 Sep 2014
In reply to Offwidth:

I must bow to your earlier experience, I only started climbing in the 1950s!
 Offwidth 20 Sep 2014
In reply to Grumpy Old Man:

Sure, if experience is reading climbing articles from around 1900
 Simon Caldwell 22 Sep 2014
In reply to deepstar:

A lot of the routes on UKC are put there by sad completists like me who climb everything and want to log it.

Having said that, there are some which should really get a proper description in the guidebook. The most recent I've done is Monolith Cleft (the back of the gully left of As You Like It and Black Crack)_ which was mentioned in a very early guide (I forget which) and ignored ever since.
 deepstar 22 Sep 2014
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

> A lot of the routes on UKC are put there by sad completists like me who climb everything and want to log it.

> Thanks Simon, I'm glad I'm not the only one.


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