UKC

I've recently received a set of Figfours, and have been pondering how to get most benefit out of them... I'm working on an assumption that they will simulate arm pump, and mixed-style movement but won't really simulate the feel of different types/qualities of placement.

Is there much of a training advantage using them with boots rather than climbing shoes?

In reply to KellyKettle:


Try using them with trainers instead of boot. Basically the worse footwear you have, the more your upper body (hands and core) need to work. With climbing shoes (or even approach shoes), you get "too much" help from footholds -> night gut.

In reply to KellyKettle:

I agree, figfours, schmoolz and the like will not give you any sensory feeling of balancing your ice tools on a small edge. If posible, use scrapped climbing holds and your normal ice tools. With a little imagination and carpentry you can create macros for torquing and steinpulls too.

In reply to KellyKettle:

They don't so much simulate types of placements so much as help you get dialled in to the whole keeping your placements as stable as possible. They get you looking really hard at the placement which is good practice.

In reply to iksander:

I found when using them, my Baby fingers were crushed to death! Get gloves. Wear roller bladesw

In reply to KellyKettle:

If you want a bigger physical training effect use trainers, if you want to simulate winter climbing a little more wear your boots and 'edge' on your toes where possible to simulate using a front point.

In reply to KellyKettle:

Are these really necessary? When I wanted to train for winter ice I just did lots of laps on steep juggy gym climbs. Do you really need the extra faff of faux axes just so you can "simulate" the outdoors indoors?

In reply to Morgan Woods:

I've used them in the past, "do you really need the extra faff of faux axes"

Each to their own, I personally find going to the climbing wall tedious so the fig fours or schmooztool thingy mix things up a bit.

I never went to the wall just to use them they just made things a bit more interesting, they certainly don't replicate the outdoors.

In reply to woollardjt:

I should perhaps clarify....ice climbing in good conditions is the easiest thing in the world.....it's permanent climbing on jugs....so I'm not sure why the need to simulate. Where it get's harder ie thin, melty, sketchy etc doesn't seem like something you'll learn using fig 4's.

Thanks all for the comments, I can now attest to how big a demand they put on your strength if you wear floppy, non grippy footware.


In reply to Morgan Woods:

You're quite correct, climbing on ice, even vertical ice allows you to carry two good holds in both hands and both feet, get a nice efficient position down and away you go...

However in mixed, a small horizontal break jutting out, or even a slightly overhung bit, makes it damn hard to keep to that close to the face efficient position; FigFours offer the opportunity to learn the movement technique and to develop the specific fitness to deal with overhanging terrain.

I wouldn't dream of climbing an overhung mixed route on the lead, but in a nice controlled environment I can develop my skills by climbing the route, leaving the rope up, and then having a bash on TR with the figfours... though the greater the overhanging angle, the harder it is to get decent purchase with the figfours on anything but the juggiest of holds.

I would tend to agree with the comments that they're best used to break up an indoor climbing sesh, as a bit of fun... rather than going to the wall solely to use them; but I strongly suspect if I keep mucking about with them on a regular basis, I'll see dividends in strength and perhaps bravery in the great outdoors.