UKC

3 Peaks Climbing Routes

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 Phil Lyon 24 Sep 2014
We quite fancy getting up our national 3 Peaks (not in 24 hours though) via some decent long route link ups; any suggestions?

Criteria:

1. long climbs
2. top out close to summit
3. maximum grade of vs 4c

I guess the Ben Nevis one is obvious with "The Long Climb" but what about the others?
 Bob 24 Sep 2014
In reply to Phil Lyon:

The Sentinel on Pikes Crag for Scafell Pike.

Longland's Climb on Cloggy for Snowdon.
In reply to Phil Lyon:

You can get them done in 24 hours. I have a copy of a Chris Bonington article where he did three routes like that many years ago.
 Bob 24 Sep 2014
In reply to unclesamsauntibess:

From memory he had Frank Davies (of the Climbing Shop, Ambleside) as driver. Frank was an ex rally driver, let's just say I don't think the driving was leisurely!
 ianstevens 24 Sep 2014
In reply to Bob:

Read's (sp) Route on Crib Goch for Snowdon? Or anything on Lliwedd I guess.
 Mark Eddy 24 Sep 2014
In reply to Phil Lyon:

Tower Ridge / Observatory ridge;
Grooved Arete on Pikes crag;
The Sword & Red wall / Avalanche continuation?
 Michael Gordon 24 Sep 2014
In reply to Bob:

> The Sentinel on Pikes Crag for Scafell Pike.
>

Great route but a fair bit harder than VS 4c.
 Martin Bennett 24 Sep 2014
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> Great route but a fair bit harder than VS 4c.

I'm glad you said that - I thought it was gnarly for VS too. Not easy and with some creaky rock.

 Michael Gordon 25 Sep 2014
In reply to Martin Bennett:

I honestly thought pitch 2 was HVS 5b! Seemed similar difficulty overall to Hammer (Etive Slabs) which we also did around that time.
 Simon Caldwell 25 Sep 2014
In reply to Phil Lyon:

If you've got time then maybe Main Wall & Gambit Climb for Snowdon? Perhaps even Reade's Route to finish, though that's heading away from the summit rather than towards it.
 jon 25 Sep 2014
In reply to Bob:

> From memory he had Frank Davies (of the Climbing Shop, Ambleside) as driver. Frank was an ex rally driver, let's just say I don't think the driving was leisurely!

And they werei harder routes - Centurion, Central Buttress and White Slab.
 Martin Bennett 25 Sep 2014
In reply to jon:

> And they werei harder routes - Centurion, Central Buttress and White Slab.

You've probably heard it and it's probably apocryphal but the story goes that Whillans, on asking Bonnington in the Padarn that night "What did you do today" and hearing the reply "Centurion, Central Buttress and White Slab" paused for dramatic effect and replied "Aye, we di'n't 'av much of a day either"!
In reply to Bob:

> Longland's Climb on Cloggy for Snowdon.

If maximum vertical distance climbed is the goal, and you don't mind a few, er, traversing pitches, then something like Direct Route, er, some VS up Cyrn Las, and only then Longlands Climb, would be possible.

And by the same token I guess Surgeon's Gully for Ben Nevis.

jcm

 GrahamD 25 Sep 2014
In reply to Phil Lyon:

my choice for Snowdon would probably be Reades route or one of the Llewedd routes as they bring you out on a summit. OK not the right summit, but close
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

> If maximum vertical distance climbed is the goal, and you don't mind a few, er, traversing pitches, then something like Direct Route, er, some VS up Cyrn Las, and only then Longlands Climb, would be possible.

Or: Main Wall on Cyrn Las, Gambit Climb on Clogwyn Y Ddysgyl, and Great Slab on Cloggy (better than Longlands) That would be a BIG day.

 Simon Caldwell 25 Sep 2014
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

> Or: Main Wall on Cyrn Las, Gambit Climb on Clogwyn Y Ddysgyl, and Great Slab on Cloggy (better than Longlands) That would be a BIG day.

and also involkve descending half way back down the mountain after Gambit Climb! Which is why I suggested Reade's Route to finish - it's in the wrong direction (though less so than Cloggy) but at least you don't have to descend to get there.
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

OK, I see what you mean. But I think Main Wall and Gambit would be better than MW and Reade's Route.
 Simon Caldwell 25 Sep 2014
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Agreed. I suggested MW and Gambit with RR as a possible 3rd route (we traversed to do it after we did Gambit, though hadn't done any other routes beforehand!)
OP Phil Lyon 25 Sep 2014
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

thanks everyone, a great trip is in the making.
 dominic lee 26 Sep 2014
In reply to Bob:
Frank once took me and my brothers out for a little demonstration down a country lane in the lakes in an escort Mexico, I think...we were terrified....still a vivid memory to this day..

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