UKC

Just wondering if anyone has climbed at Staple Edge recently, is it in decent nick? I know it can be prone to peaty leaf mould and moss, but is great when clean/dry.
Keen to climb there on Sunday, happy to do some minor cleaning duties en route, but do want a climbing rather than crag maintenance day - will I be disappointed?

In reply to The Ivanator:

Anyone? Can't see any logged climbs there since 31 August is that a bad sign?

In reply to The Ivanator:

Haven't been there this month (was last there in August), but it will certainly be dry, and while the moss and brambles have been making a bit of a comeback on some of the routes there will be plenty to keep you occupied without needing any prior cleaning. If you do a route with a bit of moss on, as it's all so dry it should be easy to get it off the holds leaving dry rock underneath.

Rick

In reply to Rick Sewards:

Cheers Rick, that is about what I thought, but wanted to check I wasn't being overly optimistic. I doubt the leaves have fallen en masse yet so that should help.

In reply to The Ivanator:
It would be interesting to know how it is fairing up. Has nobody bothered looking at the big unclimbed roof right of Ice Age yet?

In reply to The Ivanator:

This time of year is as good as it gets there. Leaves won't be a problem yet.

However you might like to beware that the FoD Autumn HM is being run on Sunday morning. The route takes in the long ridge above the crag but that shouldn't impinge on climbers in any way. The course includes no road crossings, but there may be some mild traffic congestion especially in the area of Speech House (which is the start and finish). Note also that the M48 bridge is closed to westbound traffic this Sunday.

In reply to The Pylon King: And No Birds Do Sing was incredibly mossy when I was there in August, and having neglected to bring any cleaning equipment with us, we had to do something else. It doesn't look like anyone's tried the roof recently.

Generally, a bit of gardening is needed - Burnt Mound's traverse is a thrash through brambles, but moss is the main problem - it's definitely worth taking a big brush there.

In reply to The Ivanator:

I'll pack brush and secateurs and try to do a bit for the place along with the climbing. Cheers for all the replies/advice. If all goes to plan I'll report back Monday.

In reply to whenry:


...But still climbable! I did it on August the 18th, but didn't contemplate the roof above. I reckon in this very dry weather the moss should come off pretty easily, so a good time to bring a brush if you're feeling public spirited...

In reply to John Willson: Thanks for the info - might influence what I do this weekend as well!

Rick

In reply to Rick Sewards:

I mean the massive roof about 10 meters right of Ice Age

In reply to The Pylon King:

Reckon that's for harder boys than me to contemplate, but will certainly take a look.
Think I saw a crack line right of "and no birds..." that might then traverse left into Ice Age (to avoid a dodgy looking direct finish).
"And no birds..." was fairly mossy when I climbed it about a year ago, but didn't detract too much from the moves.

In reply to Rick Sewards: Good going! I soloed up about five metres to check it out, and decided that it was too mossy for my liking.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Had a good day at Staple Edge and Shakemantle. Did some bramble trimmage and brushing on the routes we did at Staple Edge: Lost Kingdom of Mercia, the Quarry Effect and Finger Popping Good. I'd say the place was noticeably dustier, bramblier and mossier than when I last climbed there just over a year ago. Seems to be the kind of venue that needs regular maintenance to stay in condition, would certainly be a shame to lose it to encroaching vegetation

In reply to The Ivanator:
Climbed this with a direct (and unpleasant) finish to a decent tree - there was already a mossy rope anchor in situ and appears from logbooks to have been done last year as "Finger Popping Good".
Quite reasonable until the grim last few feet, I reckoned the HS4b given was about right, though last moves feel insecure and serious.
Cleaned the line, chopped back brambles and added fresh cord to the anchor.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Thats one of Brian's routes that he cleaned but never went back to lead. Theres another one around if you look hard enough

In reply to The Ivanator:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=599205