UKC

Hi, off to Siurana for 10 days in a few weeks. Been there before and love it. Anyone care to make some suggestions of a tick list for 6b+ to 7a+ (probably pushing it) Managed 6c last year and have got a number of SW 7a's this year, so...Anything off the beaten track appreciated, also will probably head to Montsant for a day so any recommendations on routes sectors there.

many thanks

Rich

In reply to Solsbury:

I enjoyed the various low 7s on El Pati and Siuranella - pick of the bunch were probably Brigadista, Tikis Mikis and Crosta Panic. If it's hot, the routes on the opposite side of the road stay in the shade most of the day; I thought Bindelef was particularly good and there are a few others at 7a+ which look excellent. L'herbolari was good at these grades too; Cojon Prieto was a standout at 7a.

6s in Siurana are a mixed bag - in general the quality didn't seem that high and you'd probably be better off at Montsant or El Falco at these grades.

In reply to Solsbury:

Viagraman was the easiest F7a I found. There arent any hard moves on it but it is fairly sustained after the early big ledge.

Next up at F7a would be Lo dejé to blanco which is easy barring a short hard boulder problem crux near the end.

If those don't go well and you want to drop a grade then at F6c/+ you could look at El tiempo se ha reído de los que no han venido which is a lovely piece of rock (go left at the hard bit).

In reply to Solsbury:
Definitely try and get to El Falco, among a bunch of awesome routes there is a 6b+ that extends to make a 40m 7a, absolutely fantastic.

In reply to Solsbury:

Pizza de pinya is quite a good one and very accessible.

In reply to Solsbury:

+1 for el Falco and the 40m 7a. very good.

A friend (Ali K incase he comes along here later) gave me these recommendations similar to your range.



CAN PIQUI PUGUI - delicatessen 7a+ - toca me-la-sam 6c+ - Isadora donde estas? (hard 7b)

GRAU DELS MASETS DE BAIX - cenar, bebar, emborracharse….. (6c) - la muerte del sponsor (7b+ but easy) - Aleva 6b+ - all the 7a’s at this crag

CORRAL NOU - veu de bou 7a+ - cantamananas 7a+ - salmoneti a contra current 7a

CAN CODOLAR / L’APARADOR (shady crag) - bindelef 7a+ - sorry not clean 6b - rauxa & disbarauxa both 7b - Resaca & petitona both 7b

ESPERO PRIMAVERA - llet de boixa 7a+ - tan san fot 6b - remena nena 7a/+

EL CARGOL - all the long routes on this tower

EL PATI - ay mamiti 7a - viagraman 7a

SIURANELLA CENTRAL - la siuranella 6b - colze de nena 7a+ - tikis mikis 7a - fil I prim 6a+ - gruyere 6b

SIURANELLA SOUTH - like a cuc 6b+

In reply to Solsbury:

Cheers for all the replies, quite a few names I don't recognise, we will definitely go back to Arboli. Any thoughts about specific sectors/routes at Monsant?

Rich

In reply to Solsbury:


Not terribly original recommendations, but Raco de Missa there's Bufa, the 6c ish thing next to it, and the three around Purolitic (my friend tried L2 of this and strongly recommended not bothering with it), and the wall where there's 4 routes that start from the same place, about route 28, all 6b-c iirc.

In reply to Solsbury:

Make sure you get on Remena Nena. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=18019

Easily the best climb in my book so far.

In reply to Morgan Woods:


Polished bobbins on a crap crag; don't bother.

In reply to Solsbury:

Plenty of good advice on here so far.

If you're using the Tarragona Climbs guidebook for Siurana, and going to Grau dels Masets-Baix (a really good crag in your grade-range) please consult the revised topo here:

http://www.tarragonaclimbs.com/2013/11/siurana-grau-dels-masets-baix.html

Re Montsant: El Racó de Missa is certainly the best-known crag in the massif, but it's by no means the only one offering excellent mid-range climbs. El Carrasclet (lower wall) and Cingles de Sant Joan are loaded with excellent 6b/7a routes.

Re Arbolí: yep, El Falcó is an absolute must!

Pete.

In reply to Solsbury:

Cheers for all the responses-looking forward to the whole trip but especially a return trip to Arboli and finally getting over to Monsant.

Cheers

Rich

In reply to alibaba:

Can only agree. Tried it a few times, but never did it. Extremely enjoyable never the less. Very hard for the grade though. A 7a+ in my book.

In reply to Pete O'Donovan:
With reference to your revised topo: the new straightened out version of "No Pierdes el Mana" needs up-graded. The new line takes in some very thin climbing. I'd expect it to come in somewhere between F7b and F7c.