UKC

Just added this new ticklist for Gower:

20 trad and 20 sport lines on the Gower peninsular that showcase the best of the climbing in the RockFax orange spot zone (HS - HVS trad and F5 - F6a+ sport). Covers a range of crags across the area.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=965

Feel free to sign up, or tell me of glaring omissions or unworthy selections (I've only done just under half, so far). Led by stars, UKC voting and personal recommendations on the rest.
Want to keep the 50/50 sport/trad split and the total number of climbs at 40, keep a range of crags and grades (within the specified boundaries), but open to some shuffling within those parameters.
If you like the list I have compiled similar ones previously for Swanage, Portland, Lower Wye and Cheddar:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=521
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=497
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=519
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=275

In reply to The Ivanator:

Nice list which seems to contain most of my favourites. Don't know about any of the bolted stuff.

In reply to Rog Wilko:

A few personal preferences are:
All There on Jacky's Tor
The Ring on Paviland
I found Ninja and On the Horizon both superior to Socialist Worker
Tokyo 11 is for me the best route on Boiler Slab

In reply to Rog Wilko:

All There is good, but Thanksgiving on the same cliff is even better, and 2 routes from Upper Jacky's Tor is probably excessive? Similarly Rhea is excellent, but not sure if you can fit it in when you've already got Isis, Osiris and SW Dierdre (well I'd fit it in by having fewer sport routes! But that's my bias - haven't done any of them).

Two essential ticks from crags too obscure to be in the new select guide (and therefore you get extra cred points for them) - Il Bel Camino (HVS) at Shire Combe, and Nat Not (sandbag VS) at Caswell Bay. They are both excellent and unique.

Rick

In reply to Rick Sewards and Rog Wilko:
Cheers for your thoughts.
Done All There and Thanksgiving and although both good outings I feel Thanksgiving is more of a line, cleaner, better moves and yes, I feel one line from Upper Jacky's is all there is room for.
Have done the Ring at Paviland and it is currently in such a vegetated state I found it hard to justify including (Shelob is a garden too of course, but slightly more unique).
Not done all the VSes on Juniper so happy to accept there are better offerings than Socialist Worker, but if I'm to include Nat Not and/or Il Bel Camino then perhaps Assassin will be the only survivor from Juniper.
Not done Tokyo II, but looks good, I'm trying to keep an approximate balance between HS/VS and HVS in the selection though, so perhaps stick with Direct (which is decent).

In reply to Rick Sewards:

Nat Not and Il Bel Camino are in at the expense of Chantilly Lace and Socialist Worker, pleased to extend the range of crags.
Of the Sport I've selected the ones I've done have been pretty good, it is certainly a growing aspect of Gower climbing across the grades. Lemon Soul and Sister Mary's Blessed Finger (both 6a) are personal favourites.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Done a bit of revision. Upped the selection to 50 routes and now have 30 trad and 20 sport, thrown a few obscurities in there to add variety to the quest, and now found room for The Ring, Tokyo II and Ninja. Marsh Dance at Tor Gro looks interesting - originally graded E1 and now down to HS!

In reply to The Ivanator:

Good work...keep it up.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Marsh Dance definitely is interesting. Easy climbing, but no gear what so ever till you're a long way off the floor. I think it should be a VS just because of the chance of seriously hurting yourself if you stuff it up.

Personally VS wise at Juniper, I think Task Force is better than most of them, as it's a nicer line and better climbing. Ninja is ok, but it's not that great really. I'm still not 100% exactly where it goes anyway.

In reply to mattrm:

The UKC voting on the Juniper Wall VSes seems pretty evenly split with On the Horizon, Socialist Worker and Ninja all getting a split between 1 and 2 stars; Task Force marginally less well regarded (by the all knowing UKC massif) with most votes at 1*. Only done Socialist worker myself, which was good. On the Horizon has a few dubious rock comments, so I left that one out, but seems what is in and out is pretty interchangeable.
Marsh Dance high on the list for my next Gower trip, might go for a slab special and pick off the delightfully named multi pitch Sport route Don't Jis on my Sofa at Barland on my next visit too.
Hope you're keeping well.

In reply to Offwidth:

Cheers! That's a high compliment from a fellow list obsessive.