UKC

New female El Cap record for Libby Sauter and Quinn Brett

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 Baron Weasel 26 Oct 2014

http://www.climbing.com/news/first-time-two-el-cap-routes-in-a-day-for-womens-team/

http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-10172014
Post edited at 07:40
 climbwhenready 29 Oct 2014
In reply to Baron Weasel:

... and a second one - new womens' Nose speed record for Libby Sauter and Mayan Smith-Gobat

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/libby-sauter-and-mayan-smith-gobat-bre...

Nice one!
In reply to Baron Weasel:

Awesome!
 Michael Hood 29 Oct 2014
In reply to Baron Weasel:
Impressive. A couple of questions:

1. Are all these records totally free climbing (except for the King Swing) or is aid used for where it's quicker?

2. What's the speed record for the Nose when it's traditionally pitched; i.e. 2 climbers leading through and belaying at every stance (allowing pitches to be run together but no climbing together)?

2b. Or two climbers with any combination of who leads as long as no climbing together.
Post edited at 16:57
 Mike Highbury 29 Oct 2014
In reply to Michael Hood:
> 2. What's the speed record for the Nose when it's traditionally pitched; i.e. 2 climbers leading through and belaying at every stance (allowing pitches to be run together but no climbing together)?

Why, if you are competent enough to set such a speed record, would you not move together and short fix? It would be downright perverse, would it not?
 Michael Hood 29 Oct 2014
In reply to Mike Highbury: I'm sure if you were trying to set a speed record you would short fix but I just wondered what the quickest it had been done by "2 climbers just turning up and climbing it" as you or I might do at a multi-pitch crag in the UK.

 Michael Gordon 29 Oct 2014
In reply to Michael Hood:

How could anyone know that? It's like asking the speed record for the Cuillin Ridge but no running allowed!
 Michael Hood 29 Oct 2014
In reply to Michael Gordon:
Might not be a record but surely someone will know approx, doable in a day, 12 hours etc.
 turtlespit 30 Oct 2014
In reply to Michael Hood:

check out 'Race for the Nose' as part of 2010(?) Reel Rock. Short extract is here - youtube.com/watch?v=5vr3Ej0Anz4&

Basically the Nose speed record is an aid route - since free climbing the Nose is supposed to be around 5.14a/b (F8b/c)
 Offwidth 30 Oct 2014
In reply to turtlespit:

Its actually free climbing very quickly, often simul, as much as possible or you would move too slow. If you watch one of the many films of this the current speed tactics look as scary as hell.
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