UKC

NEWS: Marmot PROs Video #2 : Diamond in the Rough

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 UKC News 05 Nov 2014
Marmot Pro's, 3 kbIn the second episode of the Marmot PROs series, Steve and Leah make the journey to The Diamond on the Little Orme; one of the most spectacular cliffs in Great Britain. The Diamond is notorious for its fickle conditions and tricky access, but also for its incredible position and, for those committed enough to get there, it's world class climbing.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69282
 Mark Collins 05 Nov 2014
In reply to UKC News:

I'm confused about the orientation of the quick draws in this film, especially considering Mr. McClure's risk avoidance practises. I was always told that you face the back of the karabiner housing the rope, toward the expected direction of travel, and therefore avoid the rope running down the gate and potentially flipping out in the event of a fall. I could well be wrong about this though, so I'm going to go and have look at all the other stuff I've potentially forgotten just in case. Anyone else care to comment.

Great film all the same though.
 lithos 05 Nov 2014
In reply to Mark Collins:

yep you were told right - preference is for that rope running over the back bar.

SM doesn't even do his shoes up - what a punter eh
 DrGav 05 Nov 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Diamond looks amazing. Great series.
 Michael Gordon 05 Nov 2014
In reply to Mark Collins:

Ideally, but it's still unlikely to go wrong. The main thing is not to back clip.
 Mark Collins 05 Nov 2014
In reply to All:

Thanks guys, guess its not a problem if you never fall off.
 James Malloch 05 Nov 2014
Looks brilliant there! Any idea of the routes? Unless I missed the names somewhere?
leahc 05 Nov 2014
In reply to James Malloch:

Hi James, I was climbing on Rub-a-dub-dub 7a. An awesome vert climb with a definite crux on a bad crimp rail. Steve climbed on a route called The Waiting Game, 8a. It was horrifically greasy and slightly wet in places. That was the very steep rising traverse line. Then he climbed The Shining right at the end of the video, also 8a, given three stars. Steve loved this route!
The Brute 8b looks like a really cool line with obvious blobs of chalk in pebbly pockets, but obviously really hard. Other good looking 7's down the left hand side of the crag which is more vert. The whole crag is formed like a wave getting incredibly steep in the middle! It's a really cool place 😊
 James Malloch 05 Nov 2014
In reply to leahc:

Ah awesome - thanks! We nearly went a few weeks ago but ended up on LPT due to not really know how to get to the crag (no guide at the time). Petes new guide has got me pretty psyched though!
 Luke Owens 05 Nov 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Following on from what Leah said; the left hand side has some great great wall climbs. Rub-a-Dub-Dub is a classic 7a. "It Came From Beneath the Sea" the 7b to the left of this which goes all the way to the top of the crag is amazinng, it has got to be one of the best of it's grade in the country. Left of that is "Calimero" a great 7a+ and left of that is an old E5 which I'm in the middle of re-gearing which will make a great 6c+ and will be the easiest route on the crag.

It's by far my favorite crag!

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