UKC

Proffo,Curbar

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 paul mitchell 07 Nov 2014
Anybody lead Profit of Doom without the preplaced nut?
 Michael Hood 07 Nov 2014
In reply to paul mitchell:

What preplaced wire? Or do you mean wthout using a "double" wire to extend the reach to the placement?

Certainly Pete Meads didn't preplace when doing a very early ascent (5th?) but he probably got his beta about the "double" wire from John Allen.
 malx 07 Nov 2014
In reply to paul mitchell:

Yeah. I didn't think it was too bad to place, a little pumpy but you can go back down to the rest.
Why?
 Dan Arkle 07 Nov 2014
In reply to malx:

I pre-placed. Its tricky to get it in well, and I am a coward when it comes to unpredictable tumbles.

I think the BMC guide got it about right when they said E4 preplaced, E5 without.

The only time I've seen someone else on it, they looked competent, placed gear on lead, then fell, ripped it and tumbled down the slab in a rather unappealling way.
OP paul mitchell 07 Nov 2014
In reply to paul mitchell:
Back in the day the good placement was lower and ok to place from a relatively relaxed position.
That placement is now trashed and quite few people have their belayer preplace a wire,about 3 feet higher.
I climbed a bit with Pete M.Strong youth.
Post edited at 18:42
 Goucho 07 Nov 2014
In reply to paul mitchell:

> Anybody lead Profit of Doom without the preplaced nut?

Yup, round about 80', but I am tall with orang utan arms!

I know a few short arses who claimed that placing the gear (even in the old lower placement) was the hardest part, and anyone over 6' was a 'cheating lanky tw*t' and could only claim E3 6a
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