UKC

Just back from Nepal swimming up a couple of mountains and used snow pickets quiet a lot, got me to thinking of times when they would have been handy in Scotland so why do we not bother using them here?

In reply to sheffieldchris: I'll sell you some - http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=602191

I've used them previously in Peru and found them useful. They probably would have been very good last season in Scotland. More generally, I'm not sure.

I guess the reasoning is partly that in most years there is not reliably a large depth of snow in Scotland and not that many routes where multiple snow anchors are needed. There has also been some testing that shows that whilst offering some decent holding power in firm snow, they are no different from other snow anchors in often proving less than ideal.

However, there is also the issue of familiarity and fashion - climbers tend to stick with what they are familiar with or they follow whatever the latest trend in gear is. Snow stakes are not 'familiar' to most UK climbers and have never been fashionable. That probably helps explains there relative absence rather than them being intrinsically not suitable.

I am interested to see what others think.

In reply to sheffieldchris:

Too heavy to carry into the 'norries.

In reply to sheffieldchris:
I have a couple and have used them in the Alps, could have done with them in Scotland last year but as the previous poster has said in normal years maybe not enough large deep reliable snow.

I quite like them easy enough to carry, leave them sticking out the top of your sack and pull them out when needed. Maybe not the best holding strength depending on snow conditions but good in the right situation.


" too heavy to carry". .????? You big wuss, they weigh hardly anything

In reply to sheffieldchris:
I've always found them a pain to use. In a situation where you absolutely need them you'd need heaps of them and that would be impractical. They are rubbish in all but the perfect snow conditions so hardly worth carrying. If the conditions are right and you actually desperately need one you can leave an axe as a buried belay instead. A deadman fits most of those categories too, except that it is smaller and easier to pack, and you can use it as a spade to dig through a cornice in a pinch.

Edit: I've carried/used them a few times in the Sierras, and carried one around all day once in Scotland

In reply to sheffieldchris:

there are great for abseil anchors,been using them for years for anchors for getting down to nest sites saving the hassle of looking for nut placements,just ram two in and down u go

In reply to sheffieldchris:

They're ubiquitous in Canada. Some climbers there expressed surprise when I told them we didn't use them, but yes, not really justified in Scotland most of the time.