UKC

Blog post on The Plum, Bwlch y Moch

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 jezb1 25 Nov 2014

Had a great day at Tremadog yesterday, including climbing The Plum which has been on my to do list for a while... I did a bit of a blog on it....

http://www.jbmountainskills.co.uk/news/route-of-the-week-number-7

UKC Logbooks Links The Plum (E1 5b) Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
Post edited at 15:08
 Missile 25 Nov 2014
In reply to jezb1:

Why "the infamous Eric's cafe" - something we should know?
OP jezb1 25 Nov 2014
In reply to Missile:
Hmmm, changed it! Although the coffee does suck!

Thanks
Post edited at 15:33
 Rory Shaw 25 Nov 2014
In reply to jezb1:

You missed out the best bit! I don't think you can really tick it if you sneak in from the side
 leon 25 Nov 2014
In reply to jezb1:

Interesting what you say about the wide crack. I am terrible at cracks and worried was about this bit.

When I got there the most obvious solution (for a non crack climber) seemed to be not to crack climb but some kind of delicate layaway maybe half way up it? I remember it was just the one tricky balancy move & that was it.

The whole route is great.
 Brass Nipples 25 Nov 2014
In reply to jezb1:

If you wanted to advertise your business I'd be more upfront about it.
OP jezb1 25 Nov 2014
In reply to Orgsm:

> If you wanted to advertise your business I'd be more upfront about it.

Alright Mr Grumpy, geez chill out.
OP jezb1 25 Nov 2014
In reply to Rory Shaw:

> You missed out the best bit! I don't think you can really tick it if you sneak in from the side

Next time!
 Mike Nolan 25 Nov 2014
In reply to Orgsm:
Oh my god Jez you can't talk about climbing on here!!! Heaven forbid!!!!!!

I'd rather a post with a link to a blog about some actual climbing than some of the drivel you post, Orgsm.
Post edited at 18:00
 Brass Nipples 25 Nov 2014
In reply to Mike Nolan:

Ouch, you obviously got out of the wrong side of your bed today.
 jsmcfarland 26 Nov 2014
In reply to jezb1:

The Plum is amazing. I remember sticking my knee in the offwidthy crack on p2 and then scrabbling up it. Think that was the hardest bit of the route for me in all honesty. All in all, 4 star route
abseil 26 Nov 2014
In reply to jezb1:

Thanks for posting, I enjoyed your blog a lot. (I wish you'd left "the infamous Eric's" in there though, I would've enjoyed that!)
Removed User 26 Nov 2014
In reply to abseil:

The coffe in Eric's is terrible. If I ever win the lottery (unlikely as I don't do it) I will buy them a proper coffee machine.

If anyone is worried about the offwidth on the Plum it is esily protected with the biggest Dragon cam. In fact it is so well protected by this many would regard it as cheating!!
 ByEek 26 Nov 2014
In reply to jezb1:

Good read but there is no need to abseil on this crag when there is an excellent descent path.
OP jezb1 26 Nov 2014
In reply to Removed User:

They really do need a proper coffee machine!

To be honest the gear was so bomber before starting the off width I didn't bother with a cam even though I think I had it.
OP jezb1 26 Nov 2014
In reply to ByEek:

Definitely not necessary to abseil but it is nice and quick and on a quiet day you're not getting in anyone's way.

I did mention the descent gullies too and I do use them as much as I ab, it is a laziness thing I guess, but then I can be pretty lazy...
 Ciderslider 26 Nov 2014
In reply to jezb1:

You're my hero Jez
In reply to jezb1:

I agree. It can take about the same time to walk off as abseiling but walking is effort!
OP jezb1 26 Nov 2014
In reply to Ciderslider:

You're mine Mark, the size of your arms in that profile shot, geez, you must be bustin out 8a with them bad boys!
In reply to higherclimbingwales:

> I agree. It can take about the same time to walk off as abseiling but walking is effort!

That is just so feeble. The path is a superb way off B y M - you can just trot down it in about three or four minutes. Probably faster than setting up an abseil and abseiling. And what are you abseiling off anyway? If a tree, that of course means having to leave a sling behind. What you say is so feeble it's probably a troll.
OP jezb1 26 Nov 2014
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
The walk offs are easy but prob a little more than three or four mins, but not a lot.

There are established ab points, to 1. Save the trees and 2. Save leaving kit behind.

Abbing off at ByM is pretty normal.

I'm not sure what's wrong with abbing as long as you check no ones on the route.
Post edited at 18:46
In reply to jezb1:

You imply that the 'established ab points' go down the lines of existing rock climbs.
In reply to jezb1:

See what you've started now jez. You should be ashamed of yourself you abseiling heathen.

Won't somebody think of da trees!
OP jezb1 30 Nov 2014
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

> You imply that the 'established ab points' go down the lines of existing rock climbs.

Well yes, they are where they are and have been for some time.
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