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Night-time landscape pics with Canon G12

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 gammarus 25 Nov 2014
I'd be grateful for tips on taking night-time/moonlit landscape pics with a Canon G12. My first attempts have not been great. There's a maximum 15s time exposure, so I've tried increasing the ASA, which produces very grainy results. So - ideas please.
 AdrianC 25 Nov 2014
In reply to gammarus:

I tried a few with my G9 and struggled to get decent quality for the same reasons. The 15s max is a bit of a problem. You could see what chdk does for the G12. I'm pretty sure you'd get a slower shutter speed amongst whatever other goodies like intervalometers etc.
 Tall Clare 25 Nov 2014
In reply to gammarus:

Not very helpful to you but as a consequence of this thread I've discovered that my new G16 has a maximum 250 second time exposure. I might have to experiment!
OP gammarus 25 Nov 2014
In reply to AdrianC:
OK - I've found the CHDK website but it's too complicated for me. Perhaps some kind soul on this thread will post some instructions for increasing exposure time that I can understand.
Post edited at 19:24
 Toerag 25 Nov 2014
In reply to gammarus:

you need the aperture wide open (low F number) as you're restricted on exposure time and can't raise the ISO due to noise (grain) issues. You're going to need a full moon as well. For star pics I use ISO1600, 30secs, F3.5 as a starting point, a full-moon landscape will be quite bright with those settings.
 d_b 26 Nov 2014
In reply to gammarus:
When I have used a compact for this kind of thing (Panasonic LX3) I found that I get much better results from low ISO, long exposure. The noise just builds up way too fast as the sensitivity goes up on these small sensors.

It looks like you can use CHDK with the G12, so you might be able to use that to get nice long exposures.

http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/G12
http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK_in_Brief
Post edited at 10:22
 James Rushforth Global Crag Moderator 26 Nov 2014
In reply to gammarus:

You could use a remote release cable to get a longer exposure on the 'bulb' setting. I believe the Canon RS-60E3 is compatible with the G12: http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-canon-rs-60e3-remote-switch/p1000205

Aside from that as already suggested you need the widest aperture possible. With a tripod and a remote release cable you will be able to make the exposure as long as you want. Bear in mind capturing a star field with a camera like the G12 will be difficult at best. Star trails are more feasible however. If it's cloudy you shouldn't have a problem!

Good luck.
 d_b 26 Nov 2014
In reply to gammarus:
I would help out, but haven't used it in years so would need to get hands on. You aren't near Bristol are you?

Alternatively...

It looks as though you can get a remote release cable with locking button for under a fiver:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/RS-60E3-Shutter-Releases-PowerShot-300cm-Cable/dp/B...


Or a fancy one with timer (Go timelapse!) for 20 quid:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/JJC-Multi-Function-Control-compatible-PowerShot/dp/...
Post edited at 22:02
 nic mullin 27 Nov 2014

I don't think the G12 has a 'bulb' setting, so a remote release (suggested above) won't get you longer exposures, but will help reduce camera shake from pressing the shutter button (alternatively use the self timer instead).

If memory serves, you can get up to 15 seconds in manual, but only 1 second in Program of Aperture priority.

I'd set it to manual, open the aperture as far as it'll go (f/2.8 at the wide end of the zoom range, but slower as you zoom in) set the shutter to 15 seconds and mess with the ISO until you get the exposure you like. Lower will be cleaner.

Whatever you do, it will look grainy and noisy in the dark areas if you view at 100%. However, bear in mind that the dark areas are seldom what people are looking at in your picture. The camera screen will look very bright and vivid in the dark, so make sure you check the histogram to ensure that your exposure is good. Brighter areas are less susceptible to noise because 1) a bright, noisy pixel is less obvious against a bright feature in your image and 2) the sensor data is digitized logarithmically, so a small variation (noise) in a dark valued pixel gives a bigger change in brightness than the same small change in a bright valued pixel.

The pictures will most likely not look good at 100% because of the noise, but (unless you make big prints) nobody apart from you will look at 100%. A regular computer screen has resolution in the region of 1MP, so viewed at full size you're averaging ten 'sensor' pixels for every 'screen' pixel - your image may well look much cleaner than you think if you've been pixel peeping.

Hope that's of some help, good luck!
 James Rushforth Global Crag Moderator 27 Nov 2014
In reply to nic mullin:

> I don't think the G12 has a 'bulb' setting, so a remote release (suggested above) won't get you longer exposures, but will help reduce camera shake from pressing the shutter button (alternatively use the self timer instead).

I believe CHDK effectively gives you a bulb setting though. I've got a G12 and will test it when I get chance..
OP gammarus 16 Dec 2014
In reply to nic mullin:

Thanks - I'll give these ideas a try

Steve

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