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HELP! terrible conditions in Norway

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 berna 26 Nov 2014
Hi all I was planning on going to climbing in and around Tromso in Norway this weekend but was just told last night the season has been abnormaly warm and wet and that conditions are just not there. I am leaving tomorrow night and my girlfriend and her friend are already there so not much chance to change where I fly to.

Do you know anywhere far north (say 5 hours from Tromso) where we could drive to to get some climbing done? Ideally we wanted to hire a guide as there are three of us but my gf and ger friend have never climbed on ice (and the friend never climbed at all) oh the blessings...

Anyone pointing me in the right direction will get copious beers should we ever cross paths
 d_b 26 Nov 2014
In reply to berna:
Not sure if it is warm enough for rock, but..

There's a load of rock climbing on kvaloya, which isn't that far away. Can't make specific suggestions as I haven't done any of it - just got the guidebook a couple of months back for a trip next year.

Narvik area is just about within driving distance, maybe 3 hours. There a copy of the guide for sale here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=603046&v=1#x7929771

Also, there's some scrambly type stuff about. The "Walks and Scrambles in Norway" book has some options near tromso.
Post edited at 12:53
 HeMa 26 Nov 2014
In reply to berna:

Alta (5.5 h) might be an option... further north, so might have something in condition...
http://oppialta.no/index-is.htm

Also the 1st fall from this blog.
http://www.rollomixed.com/2013/04/nonskarfossen-kafjord-storhaugen.html

Tamokdalen closer by (~45 mins or so) is usually slightly colder. There's also some icefalls there, that start up really high up...

Weather data from Tamok:
http://www.yr.no/sted/Norge/Troms/Balsfjord/Tamokdalen_m%C3%A5lestasjon/sta...

Nick and Jims blog have something more (for Tamok).

http://northnorwayice.blogspot.fi/


There can also be something on the road up towards Kilpisjärvi (from Skibotn)... eg. stuff like this:
http://www.rollomixed.com/2013/11/ramp-feber.html

Which is usually colder than Troms (and to further inland you go, the colder it gets).

Areas a bit to the south (Bardufjord... some 3 h or so of driving), might also be colder...
http://www.isklatring.no/eksterne_sider/iceclimbing_Sordalen.pdf

 HeMa 26 Nov 2014
In reply to berna:

Oh,

Stora Sjöfallet is roughly 7.5 h away... and it is in condition (albeit some lines are a tad thin).

Also stuff around Abisko/Riksgränsen should be ok (closer, say 5h or so).

Topo here:
http://kiwiclimber.se/iceclimbing/iceguide/iceguide.pdf
 matthew jones 26 Nov 2014
In reply to berna:

The forecast for the weekend in Tromsø is good, would definitely second the suggestion for cragging/bouldering/big-walling whatever your game is on Kvaløya, it is that good!
The sun is not showing at this time of year btw, despite the forecast. Good Luck With whatever you end up on.
 JJL 26 Nov 2014
In reply to berna:

> Anyone pointing me in the right direction will get copious beers should we ever cross paths

Just make sure your paths don'/t cross in Norway then
 Phil1919 26 Nov 2014
In reply to berna:

Unfortunately its all the driving and flying we are doing to get to the crags. Its warming things up. Best to take up new sport I guess.
 pass and peak 26 Nov 2014
In reply to berna:

I hope you've got good head torches no matter what your doing, you do realize guys, at this time of year Tromso has only 1hr of daylight every 24hrs!!!!

Go fishing I say.
 wbo 26 Nov 2014
In reply to berna: Looking on yr.no I think you're not going to get much cragging done. It's not going to rain all the time, but when it does.....

 TobyA 26 Nov 2014
OP berna 27 Nov 2014
In reply to TobyA:

If you could set me up with a local it would be grand! I have been trying all over the place, including Abisko and Senja over the last few days and whenever I could get through to someone on the phone I was told it was unseasonably warm.

I really hope something comes of this as the option will be spending 4 long days in the dark walking in snow shows and being pulled by dogs on sleds, all perfectly lovely and enjoyable (by the girlfriend mostly) but not what I was going to Norway for...

Furthermore, thanks everyone who took the time to reply and good shout on shying away from the bars in Norway. Is Finland like that as well? if it is Toby please let me know when you are in the uk, germany or any other country with suitably cheap beer
 Scomuir 27 Nov 2014
In reply to TobyA:

> There are guides up that way, Northern Light Guiding? Some name like that anyway

Midnight Sun Mountain Guides.
 Nick Harvey 27 Nov 2014
In reply to TobyA: Aye, I am sure Bent has been posting some icey pics on facebook already this season.

 Dave 27 Nov 2014
In reply to berna:

Looking at the yr.no forecast and temperature gradient map I would say your best bet close by is, as HeMa suggests, to head up towards Kilpisjärvi from Skibotn and see what you can find in the gorge there on the right side of the road as you head up. Tamok could also be worth a look.
 Mr. Lee 27 Nov 2014
In reply to berna:

Alta has been looking pretty cold in the forecasts for thwe last couple of weeks so maybe head there.

http://www.yr.no/sted/Norge/Finnmark/Alta/Alta/statistikk.html

In case you haven't found it there's an online guide:

http://oppialta.no/index-is.htm
 Mr. Lee 27 Nov 2014
In reply to berna:

Ps I wouldn't say conditions are 'terrible' in Norway btw. Hemsedal has been constantly freezing for a couple of weeks for example. You roll the dice if you book a trip to the coast during late November. It's had one of the wettest autumns on record so could be really good once the season gets going.
 GarethSL 27 Nov 2014
In reply to berna:

What biglee said, people have been chopping ice routes in mid Norway for weeks
 TobyA 27 Nov 2014
In reply to berna:

I've facebooked her the link to this thread, so as long as she's not on holiday or something, hopefully she might be able to leave a reply here for you with some on the ground beta.

Finnish beer is cheaper than Norwegian beer, but still not cheap!
 TobyA 27 Nov 2014
In reply to berna:

Ok - the word on the streets (of Tromsø):

"Hey, I'm not registered at UKC, but: it's been exceptionally warm indeed. Havella at Pollfjellet (above Lyngseidet tunnel) was surprisingly fat & ok yesterday; there may also be something at Furuflaten (though looked a bit thin from the village). Ask them to check Tromso klatreklubb fb-page: someone posted pics of Lyngen & Tamok from last weekend – doesn't look great, but there is enough ice to get some climbing done. For really good conditions, I'd suggest much more inlands (Tamok, Kåfjord, Bardufoss have all been warm - I'm sure there's ice, though might be somewhat thin / scary at times..)"

Pollfjellet/Furuflaten is less than two hours from central Tromsø https://www.google.co.uk/maps/dir/Furuflaten,+Norway/Troms%C3%B8,+Norway/@6... so can easily be done in day. Some of the Pollfjellet routes have rather short walk ins from my memory https://www.flickr.com/photos/toby-northern_light/2365031428/in/set-7215759... You park by the tunnel exit and the ice is sort of above you. The ones a bit north of there were a slog to get to through deep snow https://www.flickr.com/photos/toby-northern_light/2364140451/in/set-7215759... but maybe there isn't so much of that right now!
 DanielJ 28 Nov 2014
In reply to berna:

Abisko, dont recall exact driving time from Tromso but it`ll be in the region of 5 hours.
Pictures from two weekends ago, text in swedish.
http://crimpmaster.blogspot.se/?m=1
 DanielJ 28 Nov 2014
In reply to DanielJ:

And two short go-pro videos taken at the same time. (The first two)
vimeo.com/antoneriksson
 PeterBlackler 29 Nov 2014

+1 for Abisko and the Mountain Lodge...it's just a great place
Post edited at 12:12

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