UKC

Which leashes (for harness, not wrists) would people recommend for BD vipers?

I'm concerned from what I've read about clipping karabiners into the axe point as there are stories of them coming unclipped and people losing their axes..

But, equally, would it be ok to attach the cord of the leash direct through the hole in the spike as surely this is sharp and risk of cutting through the fabric?

Have been looking at DMM Freedom, Grivel Double Spring and Blue Ice Boa.
Basically after something that will be safe and not risking losing axes, and easy/quick to attach/unattach.

What have other people used and what has your experience been?

Thanks

In reply to rashwell:

I like the blue ice ones, you girth hitch the leash through the hole, then clip to harness/rope loop.

J

In reply to jonnie3430:

Yes this was one option I was thinking of... So if you girth hitch to the axes, you can't easily unattach throughout the day without unclipping from your harness, is that a problem? And is grith hitch around the sharp spike not an issue with cutting the leash fabric?

In reply to rashwell:

No, the spike shouldn't cut it. just make sure when you are using the spike, that you tighten the leash so it doesn't get in between the ground and the spike. you can easily unattach (I do every belay,) by clipping the leashes into the belay, it stops them getting in the way of the belay plate.

In reply to rashwell:


Plus one for the Boas - looping through the spike hole is quick and simple, and, as above, doesn't seem to harm the sling material. I wrap mine round my waist when not using them.

The BD Springer Leash is also good. It does have karabiers, mind, but even if one does unclip you have to actually let go of the axe to lose it. And we all double-check our axe placements at belays before looping ropes over them that might subsequently flip them out, right...?

In reply to nufkin:

Agree. For what it's worth, I have the BD spinner leash on my vipers and have not had any problems with them unclipping. May well be because they gate in the "karabiners" is quite hard (dont know if it will get looser over time. for now I quite like it). I say "karabiners" as they are not like the Grivel one which has real krabs, they are more like metal accessory krabs than anything else.

On this point, the Grivel, if I recall correctly, has locking krabs so the unclipping should be even less of an issue.

Lastly, in my limited experience being able to unclip the axes easily at the belay helps quite a lot as if you are swaping hands during the route for any reason you may find that the leashes get tangled in the rope (when seconding only)so unclipping to untangle is quite helpful.

In reply to rashwell:

I use the DMM Freedom leashes as the crabs are really light and small, I get on really well with this combo and have never had a problem with them unclipping. That could happen I guess but its never happened to me over two winters.

Beware of big crabs as they get caught over the pommel which can be a real problem mid pitch!

In reply to rashwell:

Everyone I know who uses harness leashes has spinners, most of these guys do tie a piece of cord into the eye on the ferrule. Helps stop the crabs twisting undone but can break if fallen on (you can decide if that is a good thing or not).

I've never used them and even though I have recently purchased some, I doubt they will see any use outside of basic mountain/glacier stuff. The concept simply scares me, if I must come off something then the last thing I want to be attached to is 7 inches of hardened steel heading towards my face.

In reply to rashwell:

I'd agree with the cord bit - very hard for it to come unclipped but personally I attach them half way up the shaft - that way they never get in the way whatever bit of the axe you are using. You can buy the clip on bits for BD clipper leashes as a spare part and then (with difficulty) thread a loop of 4mm through these. If you look here and click on the second photo, you'll see what I mean: http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Winter-Climbing-Equipment/Ice-Axes/Le...

In reply to rashwell:

Thanks everyone for the tips,
Have decided to go for Grivel Double Spring - I think I'll appreciate the ease of un"clipping", but also like the assurance of the screwgates. I'll see how I get on...

In reply to rashwell:

+1 for the BD spinner leash

I took an unexpected fall onto my spinner leash when one axe ripped through a placement of frozen turf (and it was frozen before anyone starts) and i let go of both axes (not sure how or why)

The Karabiner didn't break, but I'd never want to try it again! Lucky the other axe was in a bomber placement!

In reply to rashwell:

I've done what Stephen Reid did on my old vipers, and have the grivel double spring as well, the first is a wee bit too short the second has rattly crabs at the end of axes. Your call, enjoy!

In reply to jonnie3430:


Hence the homemade bandolier that I clip them into (see photo). This effectively lengthens the leash as the clip in point is at chest level, and has the secondary effect of keeping them from getting tangled up in your nuts, so to speak.

In reply to Stephen Reid - Needle Sports:

Aye, I clipped them into my camera sling, but was never 100%, the blue ice ones make me happy.

In reply to jonnie3430:

With vipers and a blue ice leash (may work on others) you can go through the hole on the spike and hook over the finger support. No rattling crabs. It's secure, I managed to have an axe rip and end up hanging of a leash. No recommended but nothing broke. If you larks foot to the harness it's a crabless system but you need to make sure it's all long enough - or go for Stephen Reid's idea.