UKC

what the ethics with placing pitons at auchinstarry quarry. saw in the guide book that there are few in situ pegs on routes, does this mean pegs are 'accepted' as pro for the routes that look like they don't take much gear, seems to be quite a few that either take pegs or are just extremely bold?

In reply to 6b-east:

What area are you thinking of? I know the quarry pretty well. There is a peg or two on Surface Tension and they've been there for years.

In reply to Nigel Thomson:

things like death is the hunter and blade runner. not really any worthwhile gear, but a few places for bomber pegs to make it safe! Yeah, i saw that the peg on surface tension has been replaces, still think you could get another one in the hairline cracks higher up though.

In reply to 6b-east:

Never seen a peg placed there, ever. Can't imagine why you would need them.

In reply to Father Noel Furlong:

hmm, if i get up there on the lead i might try and squeeze something in, dont like bold routes :'(

In reply to 6b-east:

Yeah, I agree. Just bash them in if you spot a gap.

In reply to james1978:

not quite like that

In reply to 6b-east:

The definition of a hairline crack is that it is, er, the width of a hair so I doubt that any peg would go in there unless the rock is so shattered that it will not be stable anyway.

In reply to 6b-east:

You could stick some bolts in. Robert Durran can assist.

In reply to 6b-east:

Assuming you're not trolling, placing pegs on existing routes at Auchinstarry or anywhere else would not be doing 'KOOL SHIT'. Please don't.

In reply to 6b-east:

Completely unacceptable as aln points out. A good general principle of climbing is to leave the least in-situ gear in the rock at all, and never ever change exisiting routes without a full consultation with the climbing community and first ascentionist (i.e. simply don't).

An even better general principle is never try to bring a challenging route down to your level - always try to improve your level to be good enough to do the route. This also applies to leading routes like the ones you've mentioned, instead of wasting and disrespecting them by top-roping them.

In short, aspire to a good climbing style.

In reply to 6b-east:

Right wee man. The answer is NO!

In reply to 6b-east:

I don't really get the attraction of trolling? What's the point?


Death is the hunter hasn't seen an assent in a few years. Fire a couple of pegs in and aid it?

In reply to Fiend:



I laughed. I seem to have made a hobby of wasting and disrespecting routes around the world!


Re pitons in hairline cracks, I reckon at least some times what a climber describes as a hairline crack would take something thin, like a rurp.