In reply to wbo:
If the route you are talking about is Tveitaisen , then that was probably myself and my partner. The route goes at about WI4 according to the interwebs.
I/we found it shite. The first pitch was predominantly steep, loose powdery snow on a few cm of ice, with some névé over crumbly snow. The ice that I could find was a thin and brittle lamina on pretty much featureless rock.
After that freakshow and expecting similar conditions on the upper ramp we bailed. Came down on a single stubby screw cuase that's as good as the ice got. There was a pretty nice pillar/ step in the middle, with some good blue ice, but we weren't going to find out what was above it.
I imagine conditions are a little better now. It looks a great route, but also catches the afternoon sun. It was raining ice chunks from the headwall as I was bringing up my second on an elaborate Ice axe belay and a tied off stubby.
Will probably go back and repeat at some point
Another Brit/German ensemble climbed further up the road towards Sinnes and IIRC found similar conditions .